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Stenner says no, the pumps on Intellichem are integrated into the tank assembly.

I'd like to get a larger tank so when I'm out for a month in July, the chlorine won't get depleted. I'd like to get something where I can just remove the pump from the Intellichem tank and move it to the new tank. Based on the pump tube replacements I've purchased over the years, I'm thinking...

Finally got it off. Just kept working round the shaft applying lots of pressure. Finally it just popped off all at once. New roller assemble fixed the problem! Looks like they are over $60. I might be able to punch the shafts out of the assembly an replace the rollers with 3d printed ones...

Actually, it's the inside hole that has enlarged over time. There's a lot of wobble and that would explain why the roller might not pinch the tube as tight as it should. I forgot I had a spare--but so far I can't get the roller assembly off the pump shaft. It looks like it should just pull...

Process of elimination says it's gotta be the rollers. I'm not hooked to an injector and suction side is just inserted into a jug of acid. And, I can blow through the tube with no problem. Also, if I cover the other end when I blow, air doesn't escape, so there's no leak. Besides--same...

Not that, because same tubing, same everything except different pump. Reading the thread, thanks!

The pump motor runs and the rollers are squeezing the tube, but no acid is pumped. I thought I just needed a replacement pump tube--that's been the solution in the past. I put the same pump tube on the adjacent stenner pump (along with attached tubing) that's used to dose chlorine and it...

I need to move my Intellichem flow cell/probe holder. The rubber tubing the water in/out isn't long enough. Is it 3/8"? Can I get it locally at Lowe's?

These fit my tank mounted pumps. OEM Size C.

Thanks for that. There are some "pump tubes" on that list. After posting, I realized what I have is tank mounted pumps instead of what's show in the Intellichem manual. I'm not sure if they are the same. I'm going to ask the pump tube retailer to measure the length of what they offer and...

I need to order some new tubes for the chlorine pump in my Intellichem system. I can't read the P/N on the old tube. I've order the wrong ones in the past (they were too long), so I'm hoping someone can tell me which size is correct. Thanks!

I'm confident the tube is not curling up inside the tank--I take care to prevent that. But, I didn't know about "Stenner weights". On Amazon, I see one that has a strainer and another that just has a clip. Do you have a recommendation for which to get?

Just ordered! I'm using 5 gallon containers for chlorine tanks, with the 1/4" black tube just inserted into a hole a the top of the container. If there's a leak in the tubing that's usually beneath the chlorine level, that would explain a lot. Normally, when I need to bleed again, I switch...

Found these: https://www.amazon.com/Eldon-James-C6-4BN-Automotive-Reduction/dp/B017VND9EW/ref=sr_1_61?dchild=1&keywords=stenner+tubing+reducer&qid=1624833892&sr=8-61 but, will they hold up to acid and 12% chlorine?

The O.D. on my black tubing is 1/4". I didn't see a comparable flow meter for 1/4". Maybe there is suitable 3/8" to 1/4" reducer?

Also, should the tubing diameter I order for the flow indicators be based on the inside diameter or outside diameter of the black non-transparent UV tubing that came with the Intellichem?

Thanks! I'll check the input side tubes for leaks and replace if necessary. How does the flow indicator work? Does the little white ball bounce up and down while dosing? So, if it's not dosing, the ball doesn't bounce?

I have an Intellichem. It has Stenner pumps for dosing chlorine and acid. I think the pumps it uses are 45MP2. These are rated to 25 psi. The pumps regularly see over 30 psi. I frequently have to bleed air out of the chlorine dosing line. I don't know why. I've replaced the injectors and...

Found these: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Pool-Light-IP68-Waterproof-12v-24v_1600237725596.html?spm=a2700.galleryofferlist.normal_offer.d_title.3af6564eLEODG0&s=p DMX512 control. I'm going to order one to evaluate.

Some additional design considerations that are important. Number 1--thermal management. Getting a heatsink water coupled would be the #1 thing that could be done to improve LED light reliability/life. I saw at least one nicheless that did that. Might make waterproofing more of a challenge...

My pool has SRSmith Treo nicheless color LED lights. I've never been happy with how bright they are. Two have a failed LED. I could buy replacement lamps for them for around $80 each. But, maybe now is the time to upgrade to something brighter. I found the Jandy Pro Series. That line...

Turns out the gears are metal, so a 3d printed one probably isn't strong enough. Access to the gears was easy enough. The toggle switch blocks access to one of the screws, so it has to come out first. Only the smallest of the three gears appears damaged, but on it there's a flat spot that...

Found the valve for $155 plus shipping. More reasonable, so based on JoyFul's advice, I'll order a new one. Meanwhile, I'll disassemble the broken one. Maybe I can 3d print replacement gears and have a spare one ready to go. I have limit switches by the dozens, but they are ok.

Wow, replace a $250 valve instead of replacing $30 gears? Why does a new valve last longer than an overhauled one? What wears out? Is it a big deal to replace the gears compared to switching the entire valve? I ordered the gears yesterday, but even though the supplier had listed it as "in...

My CVA-24 valve was stuck. I tried shorting the limit switches with the manual switch in both positions, but it didn't help. I found that I can actually "help" the valve move with the handle. It makes a racket when moving, but eventually gets to the either position when I used the manual...

Maybe I should also mention that I keep summer time pool temperature at 85 - 87 F with heat pump ( cooling mode). Otherwise, it would get to 93- 95F.