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Using the Taylor K-2006 test kit which has been reliable for me. Since this pool is new and I only filled it up back around April I understand there will be PH rise that occurs from the curing. However, I may have gone 2-3 days without adding anything which I think seems excessive if it is...

So I added no chemical. Also the autopilot isn't filling water in. What else could have caused it? I've only been adding muriatic acid and that's it. I have a salt chlorinator for chlorine. What's the best way to lower it. Like I've mentioned earlier I've dumped a whole gallon of Muriatic...

So we have 3 waterfalls on the new pool the largest being a 6' ft rain waterfall falling from 8' ft up the other 2 are 36" rain and fall from 3' ft. My Alkalinity has been holding steady for the past 2 months and that's with running the 2 smaller waterfalls. Now we have the large waterfall...

I'll check in the morning, but it was working fine up until the other day and then bam the next day it started doing it.

I checked the pump and limited are set to 3450 rpm and 80gpm, however when I go into intellicenter app and put it at anything higher than 30gpm it will not go as you can see on the screen shot. When it starts priming set to 3450 and it goes that high without issue. What could be causing this...

I did not but assume they would help since they have other stuff that would help buffer ph.

No I have no pucks to add, just using swg and if need I have liquid chlorine 10% I add. So for instance pH was 7.4 yesterday morning. This morning already at 8.0+ so that is normal....just want to be sure.

Ok I'm back. PH was 8.2. I LOWERED it to 7.0 right before I left. Came home a day early yesterday and tested it. What am I missing how did it rise so fast? Is it simply because the plaster is only 2 months or so old? Thanks!

Right now it's running at 40% but I need to add 1 more bag of Salt since I'm only at 3200ppm before I go and then it should work more efficiently I would imagine.

I'll only be gone 9 days not 9 weeks lol. I might ask my neighbor to check on it.

Ya I just added salt to our new pool and so really not 100% dialed in yet. Wish I was before I left because it would be much easier.

My CYA is 60. I know really trying to start using Pool Math religiously. Ph 7.6, FC 2ppm, SWG set at 40%

Hi All, As some of you may know I have a new quartz finished pool that has been filled up for about 4-5 weeks now. All chemicals are balanced out pH, and chlorine are 7.5 & 3ppm. We leave for vacation tomorrow for 9 days. I take care of the pool myself and so I have nobody else who can...

Ya that's what I was thinking. Also, just to make sure we are on the same page. That "H" shaped bypass at the heater is only there so when waterfowl is over 70gpm it diverts it so that it doesn't damage the heater as per AquaCal.

I follow you and think your right on the heater and bypass cause to much back pressure. I can do that it shouldn't be a issue, so if that is the issue, would it be worthwhile to have my PB install a heater bypass valve and kind of reconfigure the pipes in that area so that when the heater is...

Ok give me some time to get this fixed up and I'll let ya know. And just to be sure I understand ya you want me to remive the bypass valve on filter and also remove the pressure check valve connect led to heater and bypass the heater all together so that the water doesn't flow through the...

I can make a whole new pipe run from my pump to filter and then from Filter to heater. Or are you asking me to make a pipe that completely skips the heater? Only problem is where do I get the correct sized unions?

Lol...my main concern was TA wasn't sure if 53 was OK for a new pool. And it was more open to discussion in case I overlooked something.

Doesn't hurt to double check right. For example my tests showed TA @ 60 and pool store shows at 53 so it was good to know my testing is still accurate since it's been almost 2 years since I had my last pool.

Who says I don't lol. Just cause they mention to get one doesn't mean I don't have one....you shouldn't assume. We all are always learning and this being a new pool build and my last pool wasn't new, I'm experiencing things with this pool that I didn't with my other. Hope that helps you...

Here is the most recent ready from the AccuBlue at Leslie's: I've been reasoning some places say raise because it can be corrosive and not comfortable for swimmers? Others say it's fine for a salt pool? Fyi still working on adding salt to our new pool. I also bought 8 lbs. of CYA I'm going to...

Ok Here are my readings for running for a few minutes at 3450. Also, filter pressure.

Quick question. Does the Backwash valve I have cause a lot of back pressure...is it better to just remove? I had a similar setup just with a Gulfstream heater at my old house and I could run 35gpm a little over 180 watts. Nowhere close here. When you say full speed what should I set the GPM...

Here it is. Aqual cal recommended this as they said anything flow above 70gpm will damage the heater. I don't plan on going to 70gpm but with priming and also if someone else ever works on it or owns it, it's protected. What do you think?