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It's working again.

And of course my internet just went down so nobody can hit the page right now!

I made this calculator for my wife to use at the store on her phone.

You also have to buy a hi/lo end cover or other method of selecting the speed.

You may be correct about the 1/2 hp. there is an "expert" on here that i think uses a 1/2 horse for a similar pool but he may be using a bigger filter for better flow. I would eventually like to make a solar panel so i will probably stick with a 3/4 hp in the future.

I just got the 1hp model of your pump/motor this month and i feel its too much for my 2.2 sqft filter. My next purchase will be a 3/4 hp 2 speed setup. If i can find a 3/4 hp impeller for our pump i will be purchasing that for the short term.

A 1.5 hp pump on a 1 hp motor can burn up the motor when you hit the higher flow rates like when backwashing or pumping to waste after a big rain. the downfall of a smaller pump on bigger motor would not be a big issue just may be less efficient than properly sized motor.

I would not do a motor only replacement. The pump requires a 1.5 hp motor @ 3450 rpm. look at the hp*service factor on old motor to determine min sfhp for new motor if you keep same pump.

You'll easily lose over 1ppm of chlorine every day from the sun. It will drive you insane trying to maintain .5ppm it's just too low of a number to maintain. The trichlor/dichlor tablets will add CYA and yes you can remove water and fill back up to maintain a certain level. You also add...

Yeah a small oversight by me, I should quit staying up late.

OK, since the rpm on the label only lists one RPM then it's single speed. I just got my hopes up because even this site showed it was compatible with a Hayward SP1580 pump :(

I searched the internet for my motor part# (SPX1510Z1XE) and found this site which mentions part# 18313301 - TWO SPEED TOGGLE SWITCH, FLEX48 (MOTOR ADD-ON). Is that really all it takes to convert to a two speed pump?

Thanks a lot I appreciate the help!

I've been thinking about putting in another jet or two in to minimize dead zones is this a bad idea from a design standpoint?

Thanks! 18 is what it runs after my first backwash/rinse/backwash of the season. Last year with the old pump it usually ran around 10 psi after a backwash. Do you think changing the return to 1.5" will be better or worse on efficiency? I already have everything but a $10 shut-off...

Good deal, we've had a lot of rain which is probably why the TA is high right now. I never had to lower PH in the past but did have to raise it last season.

I was counting the length of the connections at first and wasn't being real accurate. I took this last night before cleaning up my mess! [attachment=0:oh8uo5mq]pool pump.jpg[/attachment:oh8uo5mq]

I have wanted a good kit for awhile, maybe I'll have my wife take a sample to the local pool store more often until she gives in. Don't rush to bring TA, or don't rush to bring PH down since it is already getting lower from stabilizer? I just read this to get a better grasp on the subject and...

Yes I understand strips suck but at the time it's all I had. I bought the OTO test yesterday but a lot of people haven't opened their pools so I'm not sure if I got last years test kits or not. Convincing my wife to buy a good kit is just not going to happen right now, maybe after I go all...

I just opened my pool and tested with strips and it showed 0 CYA, so I added 4 pounds. About 2 hours later I took a water sample to Leslies. My counts were as follows: FC 0 TC 0 PH 8 TA 180 CYA 0 CH 300 TDS 600 Phosphates 0 Since then, I've added 360oz 8% Great Value bleach from wal-mart and...

The PSI on the filter is 18 and the gauge is 1/2" above water level. I had typed all the following up before I read your last statement but I'm including it in case it is relevant in the future: Suction Side (all 1.5"): 1 Skimmer 13" - 1.5" pipe 2 pipe-to-thread adapters 1 shut off valve 2...

That is a secret! I don't need a comparison now, what I really want to know is if I will be operating in an efficient range of the pump or if I should get a different pump. I currently don't have a pump hooked up, I plan to do the plumbing today after a trip (or two or three) to the hardware...

After reading more and talking to pump people I am convinced you all are correct and I am wrong :) I had already cut my old pipe to the skimmer so I will be changing it to 1.5". Would anyone like to take a stab at what my feet of head will be if I keep everything in my sig except for the new...

Thanks! I'm still trying to wrap my head around how less resistance to flow causes more power draw. I guess for me, I will only be happy when I see it with my own eyes by taking measurements. I appreciate everyone's time in trying to convince me and I can see I am probably wrong based on...

OK guys, given my system, would it be more efficient if I used 1.5" pipes as opposed to 1.25" pipes and run the pump less?

You cannot have a pump curve without a system curve. The system curve determines what the head losses will be and by examining what effects the system curve, you can better understand why the power increases.

What we don't see is the system curve, nor does it show how a change in the pipe size effect the system curve which would affect the pump curve.

If you look here: engineeringtoolbox.com/pump-system-curves-d_635.html, you'll see that there is a "System curve" that represents "head loss". The head loss increases with flow rate and restrictions due to pipe size is a major factor in determining this loss. Greater friction through a pipe at...

I believe if we saw a line representing resistance on a pump's head curve graph, we'd see the reason for the increase power draw at higher flow rates.