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I considered a strap wrench but the handle design will likely impede that. What a stupid design.

I have the pump cover shown and it constantly get stuck or very difficult to remove. The rounded handles are basically useless. Is there any tricks or tools that will make my life easier? Thanks!!!

I haven't had an hour to watch the video yet but it's relevant to my observations. In my pool the TA is 80 and has been stable. I have not, however, been able to keep ph above 7.2 regularly. I have added borax a few times but it settles right back at 7.2. It seems the ph will stay there with...

Ok thanks. I only ask because, for the first time, I did note a change after setting the test aside for a moment. My chlorine was 8.5. The ph test looked like to went from somewhere just above 7.2 to a solid 7.5. It had sat for no more than two min.

So is the proper method to put the drops in, tip gently to mix, and read immediately or is it more accurate to wait, say a minute or two?

That made me wonder, under normal circumstances is there a correct or preferred amount of time to wait to read the ph level after adding the 5 drops? Does the result change (darken or lighten) with time?

Thanks. I'll keep an eye on it. I checked again last night and there weren't any in the skimmer and I only saw one alive. I'm hoping they moved on, which would also confirm my thoughts on not having any algae for them. If they are still around war will be declared!! War I say!

Does the dish soap foam? A cup in 19,500 gallons?

They are fast little buggers, hard to net. I've just been killing the ones in the skimmer sock and the couple I've netted. I also plan to shock tomorrow evening after the swimming is done for the day since it will be cool the following two days. Any way to kill them all off immediately?

For the past two days I've seen a handful of water boatman alive in the pool and a few in the skimmer. Based on my reading they are a sign of algae. I don't believe that's the case in my pool because they showed up right after a hard rain for most of the weekend but I had my chlorine level...

Our local menards switched from Splash to Pro-Clor Liquid Pool Shock. Any experience with this brand? I didn't think to check the date codes, but if you are familiar with that I'm interested too.

I'm told they are literally the same unit, just an E10 rebranded for Pentair. The difference is about $100 more for the E10, both with the ultra fine filter. Warrior is one year warranty and E10 is two. And, yes, they are both above ground robots.

I just hung up with Marina and the Pentair Warrior SL was reccomended. Best I can tell, the only difference is the warranty on the Pentair is 1 and the Dolphin 2 years. Is the warranty worth the cost savings?

Menards has 12.5 at less than $4/gallon, same as last year. 418 gallons in stock as if now so it doesn't seem supply will be a problem this summer. https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/pools-accessories/pro-clor-liquid-pool-shock-1-gal/pc160003/p-1444426383664.htm

Hello! I'm pretty new myself but thought I'd mention keeping an eye out for weather warm enough to set your new liner. I'm not sure what the fall is like in UT.

Thank you. So to be clear, drain/blow it out and call it good? Nothing to address with the pressure switch? Do you suggest covering the openings after it had been drained?

Also, does anything need to be done with the pressure switch?

Thanks. I don't have the exact model but I believe it's a Universal H series, 200k btu. Would a shopvac blower be sufficient to blow it out?

We had our pool installed last month, just in time for a little bit of use and thoughts about closing it. I have search the internet and read the manual but I have not been able to find any detailed instructions or videos on how to winterize a hayward heater. Ours in hard plumbing to gas so...

Moved from HERE That begs the question, exactly what chemicals at what level are reccomended at closing? This is our first winter as our pool was just installed last month.