Winterize Hayward heater

Wirides

Member
Jul 22, 2020
20
NE Wisconsin
We had our pool installed last month, just in time for a little bit of use and thoughts about closing it. I have search the internet and read the manual but I have not been able to find any detailed instructions or videos on how to winterize a hayward heater. Ours in hard plumbing to gas so bringing it inside is not an option. Can someone please provide me some pictures, a video, or some detailed guidance? All other equipment will be brought to the basement. I planned to hire out the closing for the first time to learn how but no companies around are taking new clients. Thank you!
 
Welcome! :wave: You might want to specify which Hayward model you have since that could make a difference. Many heaters have a drain plug(s), and owners will simply remove the plug(s) to let trapped water out. Some owners will blow a little air into the system to remove residual moisture. Some of that may not be necessary in your case since some heaters are designed to not retain any free-standing water, so manufactures might claim removing the drain plug is not necessary. I'll tag @Catanzaro for his opinion based on your model info.

Oh, and of course shut-off the gas line. :)
 
Would a shopvac blower be sufficient to blow it out?
It may, but I prefer to let Catanzaro or another Hayward owner confirm. I don't purge a lot of heaters down here in south Texas. It's supposed to reach about 92 today. :)

Also, does anything need to be done with the pressure switch?
Some owners do remove them, but let's see what the others have to say.
 
Page 40 in https://hayward-pool-assets.com/ass...uals/UHS-Service-Installation-011717-RevT.pdf

DRAINING THE HEAT EXCHANGER:
This procedure applies to installations where the heater is located higher than the pool water level. If it is necessary to drain a pool heater located below the pool water level, you must either partially drain the pool, or isolate the pool heater from the pool using valves.
1. Set the heater to STANDBY mode using the keypad.
2. Turn the electricity to the heater OFF at the circuit breaker panel.
3. Turn the heater gas valve OFF using the knob or switch on the valve (see Figure 22).
4. Turn the heater’s gas supply OFF at the main shut-off valve outside the heater cabinet.
5. Be sure the circulating pump is OFF.
6. On models with plastic headers, remove the plastic drain plug (see Figure 24). On models with
bronze headers (ASME models), open the brass drain valve located on the header (see Figure 17). 7. Allow all water to drain from the heater.
8. On models with plastic headers, re-install the plastic drain plug. On models with bronze headers
(ASME models), close the brass drain valve located on the header.
 
Allen has given some great advice. With all the closings in NJ, we do not remove any drain plugs from the heater, as we feel that most, if not all the water is out of the heater. If you have isolated the return and suction side, the probability of any water back feeding to the heater is slim to none. Air travelling for more than a few minutes removes everything out of the heater.

The only instance is the Sand Filter, which could take days to drain. This is the reason why I recommend "recirculate" on pool closings, and not "filter" as there is less resistance of air flow. I have gone back days after removing the drain plug only to push more water out of the sand filter. DE and Cartridge Filters open up to remove everything out, even after the drain plugs are removed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Texas Splash
Allen has given some great advice. With all the closings in NJ, we do not remove any drain plugs from the heater, as we feel that most, if not all the water is out of the heater. If you have isolated the return and suction side, the probability of any water back feeding to the heater is slim to none. Air travelling for more than a few minutes removes everything out of the heater.

The only instance is the Sand Filter, which could take days to drain. This is the reason why I recommend "recirculate" on pool closings, and not "filter" as there is less resistance of air flow. I have gone back days after removing the drain plug only to push more water out of the sand filter. DE and Cartridge Filters open up to remove everything out, even after the drain plugs are removed.

Thank you. So to be clear, drain/blow it out and call it good? Nothing to address with the pressure switch? Do you suggest covering the openings after it had been drained?
 
Thank you. So to be clear, drain/blow it out and call it good? Nothing to address with the pressure switch? Do you suggest covering the openings after it had been drained?

Removing the Water Pressure Switch is something Pentair specifies for winterizing the MasterTemp heaters. Pentair also specifies sealing off the air intake.

Your Hayward heater likely has the water pressure switch positioned differently then the MasterTemp and it does not have an air blower to seal the air intake.

Follow the manufacturers recommendations.
 
Last edited:
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.