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jay, tell me what those pipes are, going into the ground, left to right... (ok, please) and by the way.... is that extra pump still sitting there??? steve

hmm... 1. Is your drain (suction) from your spa closed? This is key! answer this, and then i'll tell you how mine is... and what i would do if i were you. (for what that's worth... less than 2 cents) steve

wow... according to that calculator, my 18,000 gallon pool will evaporate about 24,000 gallons in a year. makes sense... at about 1/4" a day... but never thougth about losing all of my water in a year... interesting indeed.... not to mention the varying rates at relatively close geographies...

Ok... just to make sure you understand that you can... as you think about all your options 1. the automated valves CAN be adjusted so that they don't open and/or close all the way. there are cams and micro switches in them that control where they stop. 2. think about how things are...

hmm... well, a couple thoughts... 1. i'm surprised that your pb didn't install manual valves in addition to your valves with actuators. we call these isolation valves in the industrial world, and allow you to control what going on just in case you lose power, or you have to replace or...

if you have a new pool, i hear its recommended to leave your autofil off for a few weeks to make sure you don't have any leaks (otherwise, you may very well not know you have one...) and its not unusual for a new pool to have a leak or two.. an inch a day seems pretty high... i'm in south...

Good deal, looking forward to reading it. My larger concern is my "old brick" coping and spa veneer. I don't expect either to deteriorate quickly, but it won't be easily replaced either. I love the way it looks wet... dark, but not glossy... seems hard to duplicate with a sealer. My...

I suspect you'll be surprised (and pleased) with valve adjustments.... guess what I sell (other than regulators!) steve

perhaps obvious... or maybe not? i assume you have isolation valves that you can manually turn on/off to your pool returns? turn your pool returns down, therefore diverting more to spa? not sure how grinding is going to help, but curious... fwiw, still some grinding to be done on mine to...

TheOne, How's your sealer looking? Anyone else with sealer experience (good or bad)? I'm wanting to seal my "old" bricks that I used for coping and spa veneer, and also the "bluestone" that I used for spillover. Ideally, my sealer would achieve a wet look, but not leave a glossy film...

If you happen to still be weighing the situation... you've probably already thought of this, but just in case.. I understand your room is limited, and that you might not want him to be digging, but maybe an option is to repipe, adding a straight section long enough to add a check valve? just...

Cool. My valves do the same, but I use a different pump to run the jets. If I'd had to pay for the extra pump, I would've argued, but since he wanted to do that way, I figured I could always take it out if I didn't like it. Funny how he really didn't mind spending money on equipment, but had...

Ward, Sorry I no further suggestions on your bubbles.... After seeing your rpm settings, I'm curious... are you using your 4x160 to run your jets in your spa? This was a lengthy (well, relatively) discussion with my pb (and others that I should've chosen instead of him). He voluntarily...

your analysis makes sense to me... heat most always transfer from the warmest to the coolest...(assuming the cooler place is a conductor of heat) assuming that there's no place in the system that is cooler than the initial water temp.... like air... obviously if you are feeding the water back...

My pool builder did a few things real good... or at least paid someone to do a few things real good.... and installing the mastic was one of them. I don't know what the rest of your deck looks like, but my coping is brick, with of course, mortar between the bricks. This guy poured the mastic...

I don't disagree with your idea... but do keep in mind, just bc your heater seems to operating, it doesnt mean that its operaitng properly. I would guess that installing a regulator yourself would simply depend on your pipefitting skills and needs.... holler anytime...

Centerpoint, huh? One of my bestest customers.... not sure what to tell you... if you decide to do it, i'll sell you the reg that I bought for myself (from myself), that I didnt use. i'll sell it to you at my cost... which should be about 1/2 or less than anywhere else....$38.00 i dont...

dave, I've never read where they've charged anyone... they're allowing you to use MORE gas... I would TELL the tech that you need 400 scfh of gas... not 250..... bring me a new meter. (and you're right, when you use it when you're running your central heat and/or hot water tank and/or...

Looks really nice Dave.... as I was looking at yours, I realized that I let my pb get away with providing me a white legend. he did very little right the first time, and some things I just didn't catch... looks like you did good...

I'm sure smarter people will come along soon, but worst case, you can hire someone like American Leak Detectors to locate your leak. They probably could offer suggestions and maybe even quote you on a fix. Since its only leaking when the pump is running, the easiest guess is the pool (or in...

ktdave, the pressure and flow of your natural gas is dependent on a few things, and how those things add up will determine if you're reaching the the minimum requirement of your burner (heater.) some of the varialbles are 1) what regulator in front of meter happens to be set at; all regulators...

looks like spam

My meter was only 250 cfh also. Gas company put in a 600 cfh, no problem, no charge. (they'll make their money up with the increased usage) With any luck, whatever size line you ran will be able pass enough flow at the right pressure. If not, you might have to have to install a regulator...

for your conversion convenience: 1 psi = 16 oz 1 psi = 27.7 inches of water column these three units are used often when measuring natural gas pressure

Ward, I'll offer my 2 cents.... but its worth less. You have the same heater as me. You need 400 cfh of gas (which is btu/1000). Your meter has its max capacity stamped on it. My origianal one was 250. If you're meter is ok, then you might want to loosen the line coupling near the heater...

Also, if you have ANY suspect of a leak, turn the supply Off to your auto-fill so you can monitor your water loss. A leak could be bigger issue than the salt level, and obviously, the cause. you'll figure it out shortly!

is this a new heater, or one that used to work, and now doesn't? if an old one, did anything get changed recently? regulators have small orifices and can clog easily, air can get in the line, clogged strainer... just a few ideas if new, what gas flow is required, and what pressure is...

There's a company near Lafayette, LA, called Professional Pools Inc. I would not recommend them to anyone. Words of wisdom? Hmm... find a builder who several people can tell you that they did a very good job for, and would recommend them to their mother. do not make the mistake I did of...

I ended up telling my pb that when he decided to deviate from the specs, that I was forced to deviate from the payment schedule... fortunately, he screwed up enough prior to the final 2 payments, so I had quite a bit of leverage. I told him he wasn't getting another penny until he finished...

Well... you may or may not remember me... I used to have a thread in here about my build. I don't see it now, but probably just overlooking it. Started building in APRIL (2007), and paid my builder his final two payments today. Only 20 weeks for his estimated 8... and much mental and verbal...