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I found this article pretty accurate compared to most things I read about saltwater pools. The only thing I even found questionable was the statement that salt can degrade some materials. But they only mentioned metal, which I suppose could be true to some extent. I don't have any ladder or...

Don't worry too much about chasing TA. It's not that high and by using MA to lower your pH occasionally (which you almost certainly will have to do since you have a SWG), it will come down on its own over time. Plus, it's just not that important. It's usually the last thing we worry about...

The fact that you used Green to Clean (we *never* advocate the use of algaecides) makes me suspect that you are also relying upon pool store testing. The cornerstone of the TFP method is to perform your own testing using one of our recommended test kits. Pool store tests are highly suspect and...

Bubbles from the SWG while it is running are normal. That's one way I know mine is working.

Stay the course. It's come a long way, you just need a little more POP - pool owner patience. What type of filter do you have? Sand filters will take a little longer to clear it up than cartridges will. And be sure to keep it running 24x7 and backwash/clean any time the pressure rises 25% over...

Always round CYA up to the next 10's, so consider yours to be 40. Your pH is high, so use Pool Math to determine how much muriatic acid to add to drop it to 7.2. Your FC is too low. Add enough liquid chlorine to bring it to 4. Test it daily for several days and dose each day to bring it back...

You can swim now. Anything at SLAM level or below is safe.

If you passed the OCLT last night, there's no reason for you to do another one tonight. It would be a good idea to go ahead and test your CYA again just to make sure that it is at least 30. Assuming that it is, allow your FC to drift back down to 5 and try to keep it there with daily chlorine...

I used to get 2 years out of them on average. At the end of the season you can sometimes find them on the closeout aisle for under $100, so I'd usually pick one up to have a spare on hand.

Whoa! Where did you find a video that recommends the use of algaecide? Certainly not here. If we've ever recommended algaecide, I missed it. If you can still return it, do so. All you need to kill algae is chlorine, chlorine and more chlorine. To SLAM, you need to raise your FC to 40% of...

The best money you'll ever spend on your pool. It will pay for itself many times over.

I rub mine off using a flat, smooth river rock from my landscape. It takes them right off and doesn't appear to damage the plaster. I've been doing it for years. It's slow going, but it works.

You may be too far along for this to be of any help, but here's how I built a level pad for my Intex pool. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/dimension-at-the-ground-for-intex-16-ultra-frame-pool.73741/post-634174

How did you obtain the CYA value of 140-150? The test only measures up to 100. Did you perform a diluted CYA test? Just want to be sure, because otherwise your value could be either considerably higher or lower, affecting how much water you need to drain.

If those walls still feel slimy, brush them. Algae builds up a protective coating that can help it resist chlorine even if your levels are high enough to otherwise kill it. Brushing will damage that layer and allow the chlorine to do its job.

Yeah, you need to begin a SLAM ASAP. Your target FC is 24. Everything else is okay to begin. Just start adding chlorine. You don't even need to waste reagents measuring CC any more until the water is perfectly clear.

It's safe to swim up to SLAM level, ie. 40% of CYA.

Forget about TA until after the SLAM. It's always the last thing we worry about. It's simply not that important. What are your FC and CC after the drain?

Before you begin a SLAM, Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) What does your CC measure? Is the water clear?

This one: https://www.discountsaltpool.com/replacement-cell-for-pentair-intellichlor-ic40-520555-generic-salt-cell-upgrade

Call me a rebel. Sorry...

One month followup... The replacement cell definitely makes more chlorine than my IC40 did. I used to run the IC40 (installed in 2016) 10 hours per day at 100% to hold my FC constant. With this replacement cell, it's holding steady at 30% running 8 hours per day. I just hope it lasts as long...

Self priming pumps are designed to handle running dry for a bit. For the few minutes it takes to prime, it won't hurt them.

Actually, you need to check it and dose back to 16 as frequently as you can. Hourly is best, but try for at least 4 times per day. The key is to keep FC at 16 as much as possible. Between morning and night, FC will drop way too low and algae will resume growing. This will just extend your...

A lot of people advise otherwise, but I keep my SWG running during a SLAM unless I'm doing an OCLT. I figure I've already paid for it, why spend more money on chlorine? Plus from what I understand, the concentration of chlorine within the SWG itself is much higher than the overall level within...

Have you examined them to see if there are any tears?

Correct. As long as my SWG is happy, I don't bother to test my salt.

I get these too. I have some smooth river rocks for landscaping and I'll take a relatively flat one of these and rub it on the nodules and they come right off. It doesn't seem to affect the plaster at all. It's a slow process, but I'm rather OCD and well beyond my acne days, so it gives me...