Search results

Stay the course. This was my pool upon opening last year. A weeklong SLAM cleared it up.

I think so. IIRC, I paid $600 for my P40 three years ago.

I've had one of these going on 3 years now, and still working fine. It's a straight drop-in replacement for the I 40. They make an IC60 counterpart for a few hundred more. https://www.discountsaltpool.com/apex-p40-aftermarket-replacement-cell-for-pentair-intellichlor-ic40-520555

Going on my 3rd year with one, still working just fine.

Correct, everything is done on the built in control panel.

I just finished my 2nd season with a generic replacement for my IC40 and it's still going strong. It's a straight drop in, no plumbing or wiring changes required. Here's the IC60 version for $850: APEX P60 Aftermarket Replacement Salt Cell fits Pentair IC60

It was about 50, and I considered that. But it displayed the version info correctly at startup prior to changing to the black squares.

After a while, the display finally came on. I will keep an eye on it and see if it does it again.

Yes to all, pump is running. I just started holding down buttons and the heater fired up and is running now. The display is still all boxes though. I watched as I powered it up again and the version info was displayed properly briefly before it went into this state, so I know the display...

Just put this heater in new last season and tried to start it up today for the first time, only to have the display come on, but all the fields are just black squares. Has anyone ever experienced this or have any idea what to do about it before I call a service tech? Thanks!

Mine is still kicking.

In my experience, rumbling and gas-fired devices is a bad combination. He definitely needs to have it examined.

Yes, Hayward makes a number of them that will work. They are easily installed yourself. There are a number of threads here with pics to show you how to do it. Just search "Hayward Dyna-skim". Some people choose to split the butterfly gasket in half to avoid needing to drain any water. I chose...

If it lasts like this more than 4 hours, call your doctor. Sorry, hopefully you get some real advice soon.

There is no reason to be concerned with adjusting TA. Just keep pH in range and forget about TA.

With my CYA at 80, I've had FC anywhere from 7 to 32 this season. You couldn't tell any difference.

Do you turn the valve to Rinse and wait until the water runs clear before turning back to Filter? If not, all the suspended debris inside the filter is getting sent back to the pool.

I found my pool stays cleaner if I angle my returns slightly upward so that they just roil the surface. I used to keep them pointed downward, the idea being that this would help circulate the water better overall. But I found that debris on the surface would accumulate in certain areas...

Sorry, but test strips are totally unreliable and we can't make any recommendations based upon them. There are 2 test kits that contain all the tests necessary to follow the TFP method: With your time constraint, you probably can't get one of these online in time to help you. Some pool...

I suspect you have some dead zones in your pool that are not getting adequate circulation with the pump on low speed. Algae may be able to grow in these areas.

Welcome from a fellow Sooner!

A pool in good shape typically won't help to sell a home. Many people just don't want to deal with a pool and won't even look at a house that has one. So if your intent is to sell this property, considering the shape that pool is in, I think your best bet is to probably fill it in.

Can you remove the eyeballs altogether? This would reduce the pressure and quiet them down a bit. Or you could close them off with winterizing plugs...

Jinx!

No. As long as you maintain your FC at the appropriate level for your CYA, there is no need to shock on any regular basis. The only time we shock is when algae has been detected and then it is not a one time process. It is done as part of a SLAM, which stands for Shock Level And Maintain.

Holy necropost Batman!