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This is when you should test as you dial in your system. Start with 8 hours per ajw22's advice and don't let your FC get below the target range for your CYA and you will be trouble free. I hope you are testing at home with a good kit. If you are then realize there is no 33ppm CYA, round up to...

I spent a bit more time perusing Pool Magazine - Pool News | Swimming Pool Industry News and learned of California's proposed Trichlor Tax Trichlor Tax Bill Postponed in California I have mixed feelings about this bill. I also enjoyed the videos on the moving pool floor concept article. This is...

I just looked at your pictures and not clear to me you have an algae issue. Can you describe what you can see up close? We utilize a test you can use yourself at home to diagnose an active algae population but you will need a proper test kit. Your spa is unique and I'm curious about the...

Welcome to TFP. This place is a gold mine for pool owners, so stick around and do some free research. The first clue about TFP, no advertisments or silly pop-ups ever. The folks here are volunteers and most stumbled in here just like you and with the same questions. Take charge of your...

Test your fill water for TA, CH and pH so you can anticipate the effects of topping off during the summer. Use Pool Math to estimate your use of trichlor tabs and the changes to your pH and especially your CYA ppm in amounts not readily detectable with the CYA turbidity test. Keep your FC well...

You can swim up to SLAM FC level as long as you can see the pool bottom. How long, it depends. Several days is optimistic but prepare to stay the course once you begin. Stock up on fresh reagents, source liquid chlorine and block off your schedule. Maintaining your FC at SLAM level is key...

Is this a fact for your situation? I was surprised how little it cost me to drain and refill so many years ago now but I was up against the high CYA so not your situation. Do to the heat you also would have had to wait until fall so that would need to factored in. It is an option that should...

I know of an old home nearby, probably built in the late 30s that has a pool built just like this. I may have to drop by and get some measurements and pictures.

Who knew Hi Sibly was a pen name for Mr Leslie, or is it the other way. :scratch:

Jumping in let alone diving is going to be a problem in half of that design depth.

The adds in that article are gold. :ROFLMAO:

Thanks for forever altering my imagined mental image of you Jim...:shock:

I am new to Pool Magazine so thank for checking in to TFP. I found a link to your on line magazine (I assume this is you) and read a current article featured two weeks ago by Natural Chemistry titled, A New Approach for Algae Prevention & Treatment...

A Trouble Free Pool really is pretty simple once you are in control. Post your most recent water test using your TF-100 in this order so we can help with your possible algae and scale accumulation. FC CC pH TA CH CYA

Hi Rob, This situation typically points to algae in your water. A DE filter is very efficient and can trap very small particles. While this makes for very clear water it also is significantly affected by an active algae population resulting in excessive filter loading, slowing flow and driving...

Not worth leaving the lid off if it fills up with organic debris. We have the same issue only with a giant Cherry Laurel. We keep a small hand colander close by to fish out the plant debris when soaking. :rant:

Keep your FC well in the target zone for your CYA, CCs are an issue in a covered spa and opening the cover during the day will help lower the CCs but it is a small body of high temp water so proper sanitation is a bit more intense than a pool. Smart to get the AhhhSome as purging the plumbing...

Post the results of your most recent pool water test. List them accordingly: FC CC pH CH TA CYA Testing regularly at home using a proper test kit is required to keep a pool trouble free and it can diagnose a situation like the one you describe. The first step is to confirm your and recent...

Yes you are correct, maintaining your SLAM FC level is key. Also test 30 minutes after adding liquid chlorine to verify you are at or slightly above your SLAM target. Expect significant FC loss during the beginning. As you progress the loss will slow but maintain your FC level. Reread the...

Check out these short videos...

Getting your TA to 50-60ppm will slow your pH rise and lower your CSI as will keeping your pH in the low 7s if possible. Test your fill water for TA and CH to anticipate effects of adding water. Don't be in a rush to add sodium bicarbonate when your TA is above 50ppm especially if your fill...

You will appreciate a magnetic stirrer and the bottom light. Like new windshield wipers on a rainy day....sort of.

Take out your frustrations by using your pool brush on the sides, steps and bottom of your pool now. Fix bayonets.

30k gallons is a big pool. When a big pool goes green it is a big job requiring high amounts of chlorine to eradicate the massive and well established algae. Stay on it, you will make faster progress in no time, but don't be tempted to stop too soon. Algae never sleeps. Also big blue, clear...

Night time is the right time, no sun losses to deal with and your full SLAM FC level is working directly on your organic contaminants. Check FC early in the morning to measure your overnight chlorine loss and chart your improvement as the SLAM progresses. :testkit:

Running your RPM that low to generate FC maybe be risky. If your filter loads up with debris over time your filter pressure will rise slowly resulting a lower flow rate that may trigger your flow switch and shut off your SWCG. You may not notice the shut down if you are not checking regularly...

Have your partner watch these short videos to learn that your focus on CYA and Free Chlorine is exactly correct to keep your pool algae and bacteria free. The second vid reinforces there are no short cuts or magic potions so save your money, stay away from pool stores and weekly pool service...

Thanks, so testing your fill water for CH will give you a data point and help you decide if draining some of your water and refilling is warranted to lower your CH before prepping your water chemistry for a

Test your Calcium Hardness using your kit and post the result. Also test your fill water for CH and TA.

Install an Intermatic timer into your hard wired electrical system. https://www.intermatic.com/Catalog/us/Solutions/Pool-And-Spa/Pump-Control