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While diagram #1 from the position of the pump can be assumed a top view, 2 and 3 are not labeled either way. I have reached out to CP for clarification and will update when I hear back. :cheers:

Review the several diagrams on page 14 detailing the flow switch in three vertical, downward flow positions. Are those incorrect and dangerous?

If you have your CP manual turn to pages 14-15. Look at the several recommended installation diagrams on page 14 then read the specific instructions for installing the flow switch, page 15 line #5. Your guidance sure seems to conflict with the manufacturers published instructions.

Did your flow switch actually fail? Please be clear. Your origional install position was  not incorrect according to the CPool manual page 14. How did you make your determination. Again be clear, are you stating the CircuPool manual is incorrect and creating a possible dangerous condition...

So with broken spring you think the plastic paddle will sink. Have you tested to confirm that it is negatively buoyant?

Explain how a plastic flow paddle will respond to gravity in still water, sink or float? If it floats your recommendation would result in the situation you are trying to avoid.

#1 - Yes #2 - you want 6-12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. The flow switch can be installed after the cell which is considered straight pipe, page 15, #5 of manual. Many here will advise not installing the flow switch in a down flow on a vertical pipe despite it being shown as an...

Write down the results before you move to the next test. Was that 10 1/2 or 11? :scratch:

Probably organic stains maybe tannins from trees or shrubs nearby.

Best to find some 100% generic ascorbic acid, vitamin C pills, white. No dyes or other metals.

EDIT-- never mind I found the origional thread. Did Flappy post his Phosphate results? What is the issue with your cell performance Flap?

Following along with this thread. I had some very rapid scaling experiences with my cell last year and purchased the Taylor Phosphate test kit K-1106, to help diagnose my issues.

Trim the trees over the pool if possible and yes a robot or suction sided cleaner will make your life easier.

Taylor K-1766 test kit. My water was at 4500ppm after 6 years of a drain/refill and prior to adding my SWCG. Yes I could taste the salt. Now at 3500ppm not so much. I suspect using more of the lower % liquid raises salt faster.

Well done you have made good progress in the last couple of weeks. Here are a few short videos to explain the TFP concepts.

A Stenner pump and bulk chlorine in a drums would be another solution for vacations and saving a little $ ... maybe. Stenner Pumps Manufacturer of Peristaltic Metering Pumps

Check this site... About Advanced Pool Coatings — Advanced Pool Coatings Fiberglass Pool Resurfacing http://www.advancedpoolcoatings.com/fiberglass-pool-repairs

Any idea what year they applied the fiberglass? Your second picture details the delamination. The other pictures look more like staining, perhaps calcium scale, cobalt or copper stains. I agree you may be due for resurface due to delamination or perhaps you can get by with patching, stain...

Some car owners will fill up their fuel tanks or electric batteries whenever the gauge reads 1/2 or maybe 1/3 full. Some wait until their low fuel light has been on for several days, then only put in $20 worth of fuel. After a year both have spent the same on fuel if they have driven the same...

Welcome to peak swim season at TFP. Every. Single. Summer. We also see a bump during December - February when Australia checks in. :cheers:

Are you testing after you add chlorine in the evening? What is your daily FCppm loss? I

I like it. If you have young swimmers and plan on staying there then best to have pool they can grow into. The steps and shelf are nice for even the littlest ones to gain confidence. The deeper half challenges and encourages the older kids and is safe for jumping and diving. Estimate the...

Reasonable is subjective some think even owning a pool is unreasonable. :mrgreen: I have high TA fill water and found that once my pool water TA reached 60ppm the pH became much more stable. Using more fill water during summer will push the pool TA up so anticipate that by have muriatic acid...

My pool is 17×37. This change is better. For your 40' pool I would want the transition from 4' to 7' to start half way or even at 18' if possible. My opinion.

This is what I keyed on in your initial question. Your TA/pH is not making your pool water cloudy. Perhaps your fill water was not always at 200ppm TA? It is now. Your pool is cloudy and you are seeing and vacuuming up dead algae after 3# Cal Hypo. I understand you appear to have passed...

Maybe a huge pool party at your at your place while away? Check your recycle can for empties. :whoot:

This thread was a long and winding road, glad you resolved your issues and are back on track. This points out the many variables when trying to determine a proper diagnosis. Thanks for tracking this through and documenting it for the TFP data base. I'm sure it will be of value to someone...

Focus on the cloudy water first. Run an with your test kit. You may have a bigger issue so follow the test link instructions and diagnose this right away. Your high TA issue will take some time, only use Muriatic Acid and simply lower your pH when it nears 8. Dont stress this situation...

Perhaps organic material staining? Try the stain removal tests listed in the link from my previous post for organic material and iron.

Do you use a yard service? Any chance these are fertilizer pellet stains, perhaps iron? Stains in Your Pool