Newly installed 2HP Hayward Super Pump

It appears either Rectorseal Tru-Blu or Blue Monster ptfe sealant was used in lieu of Teflon tape on the fitting in addition to a liberal amount of silicone. This practice is unfortunately seen far to often. Water is leaking through the threaded fitting and the sealants and water are creating a gooey mess. Unfortunately to fix, you need to cut connection, install proper high temp unions with o-rings and glue up the rest of the plumbing.

Welcome to TFP.

Also, the water temperature sensor is on the pump output pipe. Debris pushed through the pump into the filter can damage the water temperature sensor. The sensor should be installed on the output pipe of the filter.

And wire nutting a connection to the temperature sensor will likely add resistance over time causing incorrect temperatures. Run the wire that comes with the sensor to the panel without a connection. And those wire nuts are not outdoor waterproof.

What is the blue hose in the third picture showing?

Did Pilot Electric install?

This is a Nature 2 mineral system. The minerals it adds include copper and silver, which will accumulate in the water and stain your pool.

Don't replace the mineral cartridge and when you get a chance, remove the canister.




This gas line sediment trap does not look correctly installed.


The correct sediment trap design is for the gas to make a 90 degree turn to go into the heater while the sediment can drop down into the sediment trap as shown in the Pentair diagram in the link. We see many gas line installations with the gas going straight and the sediment trap on a 90 degree bend. The sediment will not make that turn and continue into the gas valve eventually causing it to fail.



Tablet chlorinators and gas heaters do not mix well. Especially since it does not look like you have a check valve between the chlorinator output and the heater. The acid in the tablets can flow back into the heater and damage it when the pump is off.

We recommend you remove the tablet feeder and use a SWG to chlorinate your pool.

ajw22 said:

This gas line sediment trap does not look correctly installed.

Heater Maintenance - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The correct sediment trap design is for the gas to make a 90 degree turn to go into the heater while the sediment can drop down into the sediment trap as shown in the Pentair diagram in the link. We see many gas line installations with the gas going straight and the sediment trap on a 90 degree bend. The sediment will not make that turn and continue into the gas valve eventually causing it to fail.

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The drip leg/sediment trap is configured fine. Gas will enter from the top and sediment will be blown into the bottom of the trap, while the gas makes a 90 to the heater. Usually they are configured at the end of the line just before the turn into the appliance. This one isn’t but will work.

ajw22 said:

Tablet chlorinators and gas heaters do not mix well. Especially since it does not look like you have a check valve between the chlorinator output and the heater. The acid in the tablets can flow back into the heater and damage it when the pump is off.

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100% agree with this! Here are some recent picture of a thermal regulator and bypass I removed from a 1 year old heater that had been used 1 season (5 months). The feeder also had no check valve allowing acidulated water to flow back into the header of the heat exchanger. The heat exchanger was corroded through and leaking, and the bypass and thermal regulator metal parts were also eaten through.

Lake Placid said:

The drip leg/sediment trap is configured fine. Gas will enter from the top and sediment will be blown into the bottom of the trap, while the gas makes a 90 to the heater. Usually they are configured at the end of the line just before the turn into the appliance. This one isn’t but will work.

View attachment 640971

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Yeah, it was unclear to me what was going on in that bend so I wanted to point it out.