High Acid Demand and Recommendation to Replaster

AmyCJeff

Gold Supporter
May 31, 2023
147
Henderson, NV
Pool Size
19000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
EDITED TO ADD on 10/21 : I have the plaster company saying that they have to do a LIGHT ACID wash & Polish. I cannot do JUST a polish (which is funny, because the first guy said there is an option to do just a polish...but anyways).
How much should I push the issue that I only want a polish? From skimming various posts, ACID washes quite a bit of downsides, but I honestly don't know all the downsides. If I can only get a polish if I agree to the LIGHT acid wash....shouldI just do it?

Ok...I need help! My pool is only 4.5 yrs old.

My plaster pool was completed March 2020. In May 2023, I joined TFP because I was noticing discoloration/Staining on my plaster. Learned that I was not maintaining my pool right and started using the TFP method June 2023.

Since then I have been pretty meticulous about my chemicals. Yes, there have been a few times I went 10-14 days between adding acid (but did add Chlorine). But that is nothing compared to going MONTHS prior to starting the TFP method. So, I would give myself a B+....lol! and I can assure you, compared to most pool owners in my area...I am doing much better than them...lol! (for starters...my brother...lol)

The problem is....the last 3-4 months I have noticed the discoloration/staining getting worse. And I am getting little brown "volcano" spots all over my spa.
I have also noticed my Acid demand seems to be pretty high....(It has always seem to rise...but not this fast).
There was a short period (like 2 weeks about 8 months ago that it was stable for about 10 days)
For example:
PH on 10/13 was 7.8
PH today (10/17) it is 8.4 (possible 8.6)

I only have my spillover on 15 min twice a day and all my other measurements are within range
yes, my Calcium is a tad high...but nothing compared to May 2023 when it was 1,600+ . And my TA could make come down to 60??? but it's not off the charts high.

I contacted my pool company just to have them take a look at it. LONE STORY SHORT, the plaster guys said they could do a polish or a polish & and light acid wash. but they say that is a waste....as my pool needs an entire REPLASTER.
The guy that works for the PB who built my pool was supposed to come out today and determine if the plaster guys are right.....but he rescheduled.


The fact that my Acid demand seems pretty high...even with everything else being "within range" makes me wonder if the plaster is in fact deteriorating. But, if it is THAT bad......I would argue that maybe it is related to the install and not just my lack of maintaining chemicals. I mean, most people use a pool guy that comes once a week and most do not follow thee TFP method. So, how does my 4.5 yr old pool need an entire REPLASTER and I am actually cognizant of my pool chemicals (unlike most others). Could it be that the first couple years of bad maintenance is finally catching up.
They are quoting $7,000.00! At the very least...I would argue they should split the cost or even cover it...but not sure if I am going to win that one.



One final thought....I know a lot of TFP users would recommend converting to SWG...but accordingly to my PB, they are no longer recommending that in our area (due to our water) and they said one of the SWG equipment manufacturers won't even warranty if someone choses to install it in our area. So, I am not sure this would be a solution to me.

I guess I am just looking for insight, thoughts as to if this recommendation make sense? and do you think the high acid demand is in fact related to deterioatting plaster.


EDITED TO ADD : I should have noted that after joining TFP in May 2023...I learned that the stains are in fact dirt caught in calcium build-up. The only way to really "fix" it is to use HEAVY DUTY sanding. Which I can do in small areas.
SOLUTION : Have the plaster company "polish/Sand" the whole pool (no need for a replaster)
Going forward plan for a REFILL EVERY year to keep the calcium build up at bay...which will also keep the staining at bay

IMG_1804.jpgIMG_1803.jpgIMG_1802.jpgIMG_1806.jpg
 
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Post pictures of your spa and those volcano spots.

They sound like calcium nodules...



@mknauss can discuss the use of a SWG in Henderson NV.
 
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Also, is the pool we are talking about entered into "Jeffrys Pool" in your pool math?
Yes it is:) I will note....if there is space in testing....I was just adding 1 gal of chlorine just about every day or very other day as it was so hot and I knew I was burning through 4-5PPM everyday...but I didn't always log it....yes, in hindsight not a smart way to do it.
 
Bumpkis on the SWCG thing. The ONLY way to chlorinate a pool here is to use a SWCG. And it is highly encouraged to use softened water for make up water due to evaporation.
 
Your CH is more than a tad high.

Are you checking your pH before you add the liquid chlorine?

1729193839897.png

Your FC should never be at the minimum for your CYA...

full
 
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Time to drain with that CH level. You likely have scale forming on your pool walls that is stained with dirt and / or iron.
 
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Thank you of this link. I should note that when I first came to TFP because of the staining....I did get tons helpful advice about the staining. I tried all the "methods". VitaminC, Spot treating with ACID (bought a cool thing that allows you to apply MA directly to the stain, Keeping FC high to bleach it. From all of my research it appears that it is dirt trapped in Calcium. Sanding seems to be the only way to make it go away. But, I have to use a heavy duty Diamond Grit (recommended by the plaster guy). I guess that is what the "polishing it"...basically a heavy duty sanding process. I could do it by han...but it would take years....lol!
 
I think the stains on the sides and the spots on the step are two different things.

I agree with Marty it is time to exchange a large portion of water, then be diligent in keeping your CSI low for a period of time. Explanation on removing scale here:

It may be best to install a water softener for your fill water to reduce the CH addition to your pool. This will be a constant battle with the CH of your fill water.

The spots on the steps look like rust. Could be from fertilizer, but I don't suspect that you being in NV. The other thing may be rebar ties that are close to the surface and rusting. Try some vitamin C tablets on those spots, see if that clears them temporarily.
 

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Your CH is more than a tad high.

Are you checking your pH before you add the liquid chlorine?

View attachment 614746
It is high....I started at 370 in May when I did a no drain/refill. I should probably maintain a lower TA to counter balance it. I can mange it as high as 1100. After that it gets tough. But before I started using TFP it was 1600. So, again...although it is "high" it is manageable and not as high it used to be. Yes...I test PH before adding Chlorine...because once FC gets above 10....PH does not measure correctly
 
Sanding seems to be the only way to make it go away. But, I have to use a heavy duty Diamond Grit (recommended by the plaster guy). I guess that is what the "polishing it"...basically a heavy duty sanding process.

That says Marty is correct and the stains are dirty calcium scale.


DRP Tools describes How To Fix (Resurface) Rough Pool Plaster. They sell the diamond polishing pads needed. They also have a Pool Plaster Stain Remover Block to hand sand and remove stains. And they have plaster application tools.

Coyote Abrasives sells the Red Coyote Hydrotorque Pool Plaster Polisher as well as a selection of diamond grit pads and hand polishing pads.
 
It is high....I started at 370 in May when I did a no drain/refill. I should probably maintain a lower TA to counter balance it. I can mange it as high as 1100. After that it gets tough. But before I started using TFP it was 1600. So, again...although it is "high" it is manageable and not as high it used to be. Yes...I test PH before adding Chlorine...because once FC gets above 10....PH does not measure correctly
You may think your CH level is manageable but your stains and scale show it is not.
 
Time to drain with that CH level. You likely have scale forming on your pool walls that is stained with dirt and / or iron.
Yup...that is exactly what the staining is:) I plan to drain in the next month....it was just tough...because I drained in May...then TWO weeks later had to drain again because a light needed to be replaced. So...I was trying to avoid doing 3 drains so close together....:)
 
You may think your CH level is manageable but your stains and scale show it is not.
Valid point:)
So....let me ask you this....would the solution simply Be to have the Plaster company do a "polish" and then going forward just continue to maintain proper chemicals. And just acknowledge that I will need to do a drain EVERY year to keep my CH below 600? Is that the solution?
No need for a replaster, correct?
 
You need to use softened water for make up water. Or budget draining the pool about every two years.

Your CH gain this year was from more than just the water you use.
 
I think the stains on the sides and the spots on the step are two different things.

I agree with Marty it is time to exchange a large portion of water, then be diligent in keeping your CSI low for a period of time. Explanation on removing scale here:

It may be best to install a water softener for your fill water to reduce the CH addition to your pool. This will be a constant battle with the CH of your fill water.

The spots on the steps look like rust. Could be from fertilizer, but I don't suspect that you being in NV. The other thing may be rebar ties that are close to the surface and rusting. Try some vitamin C tablets on those spots, see if that clears them temporarily.Id
 
You need to use softened water for make up water. Or budget draining the pool about every two years.

Your CH gain this year was from more than just the water you use.
based on the fact that I went from 370 in May to 950 in October.. I need to drain EVERY YEAR:) If the CH this year was not just from the water....what else caused it?
 
And just acknowledge that I will need to do a drain EVERY year to keep my CH below 600? Is that the solution?
In addition to using softened water, you need to watch your CSI, not just calcium. Keep your CSI around 0 or slightly negative to avoid scale.

what else caused it?
Chlorinating with Cal-Hypo or adding calcium chloride...
 
In addition to using softened water, you need to watch your CSI, not just calcium. Keep your CSI around 0 or slightly negative to avoid scale.


Chlorinating with Cal-Hypo or adding calcium chloride...
The only chemicals I use are Chlorine and Muriatic Acid. I think I floated maybe a TOTAL of 8-10 chlorine tabs over the ENTIRE summer.. because the chlorine was being burned up so fast because of the heat...and we left town for a few long weekends. Outside of that....NOTHING else has been added.
I did try to keep the CSI negative...but it was tough...but that is when my CH was like at 1200-1400. I guess it would be easier when my CH is lower:)
 
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