- Jan 7, 2012
- 2,123
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Maintain SLAM FC until you meet ALL of the exit criteria. No shortcuts. Water should be crystal clear before exiting the SLAM.
Target ph or CYA first
- Thread starter Hg433
- Start date
Yes, It’s holding good at 16. Today water level was low so I have filled in water. And will need to get more liquid chlorine.
The SLAM article is VERY specific about the factors required to be finished. Follow the SLAM article to the letter......you are NOT done,
Today I checked CYA and it increased from 31 to 40. I did add 1.5 inch of water today as I loose roughly half inch each day, and two pucks on Sunday thinking that will help clear up cloudy water.
What could have caused such an increase in CYA?
Yesterday's Reading - FC - 15 CC 0.5 pH - 7.4 TA -70
Today's Readings - FC- 10.5 CC - 1.0, pH - 7.2, TA - 60, CYA - 40
What could have caused such an increase in CYA?
Yesterday's Reading - FC - 15 CC 0.5 pH - 7.4 TA -70
Today's Readings - FC- 10.5 CC - 1.0, pH - 7.2, TA - 60, CYA - 40
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,813
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
31 and 40 are exactly the same for TFP purposes.
If CYA measures over 30 and 40 or less, your CYA is 40. Don't try to read between the lines on the test tubes.
For CYA, always round up.
The pH test is invalid anytime the FC is above 10.
Pool Water is starting to get clear. Though I feel it will be still few days to see the deep end. I see the mention about pH to bring up to 7.2
My current pH is 7.7, does that mean i should try to lower pH to 7.2. I may have to use pH down, as I still have lot of it left.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,687
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If you are still in the SLAM process, no need to test anything but FC. Once you pass all three criteria, then adjust the other parameters.
The pH test is not valid if your FC is above 10 ppm.
The pH test is not valid if your FC is above 10 ppm.
Sunny Blues
LifeTime Supporter
No that advice was because your first post said your TA was 200. But throughout the thread it appears it was actually lower or you successfully lowered it? So if your alkalinity is actually around 60-80 right now, you’re fine and your pH is fine and you don’t need to lower it. No need to bring it down.
BUT … if your water is “starting to get clear” but you still can’t see the deep end, it means you’re not done with the SLAM. You really need to maintain slam levels every day until you are perfectly clear. While you are at slam levels any test for pH is unreliable. Get the water perfectly clear and then let the chlorine settle to the target range for your CYA level, and then retest your pH for an accurate reading. If it is between 7.4 and 8.0 your fine, and your lower alkalinity level of 60-80 will help it to fluctuate (rise) less often.
Now I have passed all the three criteria's and able to visibly see the deep end. 
CYA - 25, CC - 0.5, FC - 9
Please recommend a pool robot as my 6 year old Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus robots stops after running for half hour. Not sure if that's okay. I guess will need to get a new one. Any recommendations would be appreciated
Also, What should be my ideal CYA, pH and Alkalinity be , especially as i am planning to go on vacation for two week in mid June. I will have service guy come once for maintenance, and plan to add pucks/powdered shocks.
CYA - 25, CC - 0.5, FC - 9
Please recommend a pool robot as my 6 year old Dolphin Nautilus CC Plus robots stops after running for half hour. Not sure if that's okay. I guess will need to get a new one. Any recommendations would be appreciated
Also, What should be my ideal CYA, pH and Alkalinity be , especially as i am planning to go on vacation for two week in mid June. I will have service guy come once for maintenance, and plan to add pucks/powdered shocks.
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- Jan 7, 2012
- 2,123
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
The water needs to be better than just seeing the deep end. Is the water crystal clear? If not, maintain the SLAM.
Here's the clarity you should see:
How Clear is TFP Clear? Let's See (Pics Only Please).
How clear should my water be? A very common question. Here is mine on a calm morning where I could finally vacuum. Yes I know, I'm still manually vacuuming. It took me 7 years to finally get an SWG, I'm working on a robot. :) So now let's see your water clarity.
www.troublefreepool.com
What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?
Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.
www.troublefreepool.com
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
There are several items things every pool owner should know about swimming pool water. We share details on the basics of Pool Water Chemistry.
www.troublefreepool.com
Pool Care Basics Archives
Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
www.troublefreepool.com
Really good to see the deep end finally, and was a worthwhile journey with SLAM process here with TFP. Does this mean i am finally done with the process?
Should I target this numbers post SLAM? CYA - 50(by adding pucks), pH - 7.2, TA - 60, CC - 0. Or just not make any change from my current levels to ensure least maintenance. i found the phosphates was at 250 levels this week.
Thank you once again to help me with this journey.
Should I target this numbers post SLAM? CYA - 50(by adding pucks), pH - 7.2, TA - 60, CC - 0. Or just not make any change from my current levels to ensure least maintenance. i found the phosphates was at 250 levels this week.
Thank you once again to help me with this journey.
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- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,951
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Did you pass all the SLAM criteria?
CYA 30-60 is fine. Let pH rise to 7.8. With TA 60, if you try to force pH below about 7.8, you will continue to reduce TA. Let pH sit between 7.8 and 8.0 with TA 60. Phosphates don't matter, ignore them. If you don't have a phosphate drop test at home, stay FAR away from pool store testing.
CYA 30-60 is fine. Let pH rise to 7.8. With TA 60, if you try to force pH below about 7.8, you will continue to reduce TA. Let pH sit between 7.8 and 8.0 with TA 60. Phosphates don't matter, ignore them. If you don't have a phosphate drop test at home, stay FAR away from pool store testing.
Yes. I passed SLAM Criteria. My current levels are pH -7.8, TA - 60, CYA - 40.
That's why I was asking what should my next step be, and Is it okay now to use 1 puck every 3 weeks as regular maintenance?
That's why I was asking what should my next step be, and Is it okay now to use 1 puck every 3 weeks as regular maintenance?
Last edited:
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,951
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Sure, as long as you know it adds calcium. And calcium can only be removed by replacing water. At high levels of calcium, even a vinyl pool can scale (fairly rare).
- Jan 7, 2012
- 2,123
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Your pH and TA look great, and CYA 40 is fine for your climate. It's critical now to abide by the FC/CYA chart. For CYA 40, your target FC is 5-7. Aim towards 7 and consider 5 your FC floor.
What kind of puck? (Trichlor or cal hypo?)
- Jan 7, 2012
- 2,123
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Be smart about puck usage. Don't let your CYA get much above 50.
Last 2 weeks water is crystal clear. CYA is maintained at 32 level, and decided will not be using puck unless i go on vacation.
I do have a question with regards to CSI levels. Based on the calculation with 80 degrees water temperature, my CSI Level is -0.62
What is the preferred method to move it to 0, especially with Vinyl pool and Hard water conditions?
- Raise CH from 150 to 250 (by using powdered shocks cal-hypo), add fill water
- Raise TA from 60 to 120 from current level of 60 (least preferred as pH fluctuates faster at higher TAs and i prefer 7.5 for pH levels).
I do have a question with regards to CSI levels. Based on the calculation with 80 degrees water temperature, my CSI Level is -0.62
What is the preferred method to move it to 0, especially with Vinyl pool and Hard water conditions?
- Raise CH from 150 to 250 (by using powdered shocks cal-hypo), add fill water
- Raise TA from 60 to 120 from current level of 60 (least preferred as pH fluctuates faster at higher TAs and i prefer 7.5 for pH levels).
Last edited:
- May 3, 2014
- 62,687
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You have a vinyl pool. You do not need to track CSI. Turn off the CSI tracking in the PoolMath app.
I am going on 3 week vacation. My Neighbor will add LC once a week.
Should I lower pH to 7.2 before going, as it's 7.6 now, and Alkalinity - 60, CYA - 25.
I am planning to add 3 pucks and leave with SLAM levels too.
Should I lower pH to 7.2 before going, as it's 7.6 now, and Alkalinity - 60, CYA - 25.
I am planning to add 3 pucks and leave with SLAM levels too.