Hi - this is my second season with a pool but the first year we’ve opened it from winterization. It’s been open for one week. Water temp is running between 65-70 degrees F. After 48 hours of the pump running (Thursday) I tested it at the pool store. Chlorine was at 1. Cya at 39. Salt was 2900. Came home, backwashed, shocked it, added 80 pounds of salt, upped the SWG to 50 (it was at 35). Sunday strip tests were showing 0 chlorine. I put it on super chlorinate for 24 hours. Today (Tuesday) I had it tested again at the pool store - Chlorine was 0, cya 42, salt 3600. (My test strips and SWG match this)The pool store says I have a SWG issue. My pool builder says my SWG won’t produce chlorine with water at 65. However the manual (pentair ichlor30) says it WILL produce chlorine in water above 52F. So who is telling me the truth? Why don’t I have any chlorine? I added more shock tonight to try and boost it. We had a warm day and the water is now above 70. Does it need a big boost when opening to then maintain chlorine levels?
No chlorine???
- Thread starter snorris628
- Start date
Welcome to TFP.
What are the lights on the iChlor 30 stating? Is it in ON mode, is the flow sensor working, is the salt level OK?
Most SWCGs will operate in water temperatures above 55 degreesF so lets rule out water temperature for now.
Is the pool clear? Is there any visible algae? Something is consuming the shock that you added.
I would do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test which removes the UV portion that consumes FC. If there is a drop of more than 1ppm overnight then there is some hidden algae. Also, remember the SWCG must be turned off and do not add any more shock for at least 1 hour before you do the night time test. Ensure the water is well mixed.
It is best that you have your own test kit to do these types of tests - see
Test Kits Compared
What are the lights on the iChlor 30 stating? Is it in ON mode, is the flow sensor working, is the salt level OK?
Most SWCGs will operate in water temperatures above 55 degreesF so lets rule out water temperature for now.
Is the pool clear? Is there any visible algae? Something is consuming the shock that you added.
I would do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test which removes the UV portion that consumes FC. If there is a drop of more than 1ppm overnight then there is some hidden algae. Also, remember the SWCG must be turned off and do not add any more shock for at least 1 hour before you do the night time test. Ensure the water is well mixed.
It is best that you have your own test kit to do these types of tests - see
Test Kits Compared
- Jun 1, 2018
- 15,396
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
All the lights are on and green. It indicates good flow, adequate salt levels etc.
The pool is totally crystal clear. No visible algae.
I have no idea what a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test is - can you point me to where I can learn what this is? And also - I know this sounds stupid but I cannot figure out how to turn the SWG off other than unplugging it. Do I just set it to 0? There is no obvious power button.
I used Re-fresh granular shock. It’s 68% calcium hypochlorite. I did two pounds Thursday night and another two pounds this evening.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 13,437
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Use liquid chlorine to RAISE FC, and SWCG to maintain. Use PoolMath to calculate how much to add. Your SWCG likely cannot raise your FC. Get liquid in to raise it then use SWCG to maintain.
OCLT:
www.troublefreepool.com
Yes, you can set the SWCG to 0 to turn it off...
I would also recommend you get your own test kit...Link-->Test Kits Compared
OCLT:
Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)
The Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tells if the SLAM is finished or if you need to start a SLAM. This article says how to do the OCLT.
www.troublefreepool.com
Yes, you can set the SWCG to 0 to turn it off...
I would also recommend you get your own test kit...Link-->Test Kits Compared
Anything in BLUE is a a link. - so just click on that link.
The % setting at ZERO means the SWCG is off. The automation and pump controls the actual power to the cell.
All the above recommendations but firstly delete the pool store from your GPS. We don't/can't compete. Get one of the recommended test kits and and consider yourself trustworthy for testing.
Read this post and the following post for specific details on the kits
www.troublefreepool.com
Looking to buy a test kit, need advice...
I am looking to buy a test kit. My pool details are provided below: 13,500 Gallons Pebble Finish Jandy 2.7 HP VS FloPro Jandy 200 Sqft Cartridge Filter Jandy TruClear SWG Jandy 103k BTU VersaTemp Heater K-2006C-SALT Test Kit (Planned). I have researched this topic briefly and am interested in...
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