Rail Anchor Height Under Pavers

nuttyp

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Bronze Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
Nov 23, 2014
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Naples/Florida
Hi folks - I’m adding a steel rail by the in-water steps of my 16K gallon inground that is surrounded by pavers. I’m sinking two brass anchors on 8” centers into cement I’ll pour to a level just below the bottom of the pavers, so I can add a layer of sand and the pavers will still be replaceable some day.

I prefer to have the brass anchor cups also to the top of the cement (not rising up toward paver level), so the top of the anchors again will be just below the bottom of the pavers. Holes in the pavers will be, of course, large enough to access the anchor bolts (after perhaps scraping a bit of sand away). It seems to me, in addition to making paver replacement easier some day by not having to chip away cement, the anchors are better off with the full cement surrounding them, not rising out of the cement by the paver thickness of 2”. I checked the height and the rail will not be too low.

Does anyone see a problem with that plan?

By digging I already lucked out and found a #8 bonding wire tied to the rebar, otherwise I would have threaded the bonding wire under a bunch more pavers over to the equipment pad. For the anchor footing I had thought a 12x12”x12” cube of footing with rebar and a few 2” holes sinking farther out and deeper would be enough, but after reading a comment by jimmythegreek (thank you) in an old thread about an 18”x24”x10” footing, I may go deeper and wider. My rail will extend 50” from the back of the rail post, so leverage is a factor indeed.

Thanks for any thoughts!
 
Hi folks - I’m adding a steel rail by the in-water steps of my 16K gallon inground that is surrounded by pavers. I’m sinking two brass anchors on 8” centers into cement I’ll pour to a level just below the bottom of the pavers, so I can add a layer of sand and the pavers will still be replaceable some day.

I prefer to have the brass anchor cups also to the top of the cement (not rising up toward paver level), so the top of the anchors again will be just below the bottom of the pavers. Holes in the pavers will be, of course, large enough to access the anchor bolts (after perhaps scraping a bit of sand away). It seems to me, in addition to making paver replacement easier some day by not having to chip away cement, the anchors are better off with the full cement surrounding them, not rising out of the cement by the paver thickness of 2”. I checked the height and the rail will not be too low.

Does anyone see a problem with that plan?

By digging I already lucked out and found a #8 bonding wire tied to the rebar, otherwise I would have threaded the bonding wire under a bunch more pavers over to the equipment pad. For the anchor footing I had thought a 12x12”x12” cube of footing with rebar and a few 2” holes sinking farther out and deeper would be enough, but after reading a comment by jimmythegreek (thank you) in an old thread about an 18”x24”x10” footing, I may go deeper and wider. My rail will extend 50” from the back of the rail post, so leverage is a factor indeed.

Thanks for any thoughts!
Steel rails become very hot in the Sun. Look into Saftron, vinyl coated rails in various colors. They're made in Florida. Amazon has great prices on those rails and, usually, free shipping. You really don't want white, it seems to get dirty faster. Try taupe, it blends with most pool properties. They come with color-matching escutcheons.
One of my installations of a 50" (actually 52") taupe rail in the picture.
 

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Hi folks - I’m adding a steel rail by the in-water steps of my 16K gallon inground that is surrounded by pavers. I’m sinking two brass anchors on 8” centers into cement I’ll pour to a level just below the bottom of the pavers, so I can add a layer of sand and the pavers will still be replaceable some day.

I prefer to have the brass anchor cups also to the top of the cement (not rising up toward paver level), so the top of the anchors again will be just below the bottom of the pavers. Holes in the pavers will be, of course, large enough to access the anchor bolts (after perhaps scraping a bit of sand away). It seems to me, in addition to making paver replacement easier some day by not having to chip away cement, the anchors are better off with the full cement surrounding them, not rising out of the cement by the paver thickness of 2”. I checked the height and the rail will not be too low.

Does anyone see a problem with that plan?

By digging I already lucked out and found a #8 bonding wire tied to the rebar, otherwise I would have threaded the bonding wire under a bunch more pavers over to the equipment pad. For the anchor footing I had thought a 12x12”x12” cube of footing with rebar and a few 2” holes sinking farther out and deeper would be enough, but after reading a comment by jimmythegreek (thank you) in an old thread about an 18”x24”x10” footing, I may go deeper and wider. My rail will extend 50” from the back of the rail post, so leverage is a factor indeed.

Thanks for any thoughts!

Do you have an update on those anchors? I like your idea and wanted to see if you implemented it