Aquapure 1400 -Dreaded fault 120-121

AMH1

Active member
Apr 1, 2021
40
Texas
Hello,
I've got a 4 year old Aquapure 1400 Salt Cell which I cleaned about 6 months ago with Muratic acid and Water mix and just a few days ago I noticed getting GFault 121-120. Thanks to this forum , I got a lot of great information but I'm still not able to solve the problem. The cells looked very clean when I cleaned them about 5-6 months ago. The 3 prong Cable that connects to salt cell looks pretty good, and I tested the DC voltage at the cell with %100 Salt boost and I'm getting 35V, which seems High!

I have measured the voltage at the points ( Red & Blue) Salt cell cable connects to the backboard inside the panel and I get 11.5 V. I have even tested this by installing a new backboard and I even get the same error 120-121 with the new backboard.
Is there anything else I need to test, do you guys think I need to replace the Salt Cell?
 
What % have you run the cell? For how long daily?

How many gallons in your pool?

4 years in Texas is about what I expect from a cell.
 
Thanks for the reply......during the winter it was at 50% and with summer approaching, I moved it to %65. It is a 13.000 gallon pool. Ok, so 4 years is about the norm for these salt cells?? Sorry , never had a pool before specially a salt pool , so I see the prices on Salt cell is around $700-800 WOW!!! I guess I will try to clean the salt cell again and see if it cleares up the error, otherwise I'll just have to shop around for a salt cell. Any online places you guys recommend?
 
A cells life is typically 7,000 to 10,000 generating hours. There are 8760 hours in a year. Running at 50% - 65% for 4 years says you probably got close to 10,000 hours out of the cell.

Every acid clean removes some of the rare earths form the plates and lower the renaming life of the cell. You only want to do that as a last resort for getting scale off the plates. Read SWG How It Works - Further Reading for how to clean a cell with less damaging methods.

You are buying four years of chlorination for the $700-$800. How else will you chlorinate your pool for $150 - $200/year?
 
You're right....I never actually calculated the math :) , I'll shop around and see if I can find a resonable price on the salt cell. Do I need to replace the Salt cell Sensor that screws to the bottom of the salt cell as well? I am not seeing any error or problems with the Salt sensor!

Thanks for all the help!
 
When the cell needs replacement you should replace the cell, tri sensor, and power cord. They are sold as a kit.

You will also find the cell sold alone at a lower price then the kit and it is tempting to buy only the cell. The PLC1400 cell is Jandy P/N R0452400.

The Flow & Salinity Sensor is Jandy P/N R0452500.

The PureLink DC Cord is Jandy P/N R0402800.

 
Check the amperage.


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Thanks JamesW & ajw22.......do I check the ampreage at the salt cell with the 3 prongs DC cable ? The other end of the cable goes inside the panel and the Red and Blue wires connect directly to the back system board.
 

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.I never actually calculated the math :)
Here ya go.

10% LC = 7.7 FC for you.

$5 jug = $0.65 per FC
$6 jug (WM) = $0.78 per FC
$8 jug (Lowes) = $1.04
$8+ (Home Depot) = don't even

The pl1400 makes 12 FC per 24 hours for you, or 5000 lifetime FC, the equivalent of 649 jugs which at Walmart would cost a little over $3900 with tax.

At $800 for the SWG that's $0.16 per FC. Shorten the lifespan as the manufactures claims are perfect scenario scenarios. Shorten it all you want. I don't care. It still whoops buying LC down the block in cost. Not to mention, *NOT* lugging 649 jugs home from the store and to the backyard.

*new from scratch users need to pay install costs, which evenso, ROIs in their favor close to 2 to 1. Then they clean up on replacement cells as you are about to. :)
 

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Check at the red and blue wires where the cell cord connects as shown in the picture.

Most meters can do an Inline test up to 10 amps or you can do a clamp test.

Note: When using the inline amp test, be sure to get the leads correct before and after testing.

If you try to test voltage or amperage with the leads in the wrong holes, you will get a short circuit and the meter will be destroyed.

The clamp test is a lot safer and easier.

Do not do anything that you are not sure about.

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