I wanted to piggy back off of this thread, and I think this already answers most of my questions. I basically have had the same issue. Pool was installed end of summer last year, but we had a leak and have had to have a new liner put in. This didn't finish until December. I told the PB not to add the salt back to the pool, but to just give me that bags and i would add in the spring. I will add those when the water temp starts to come up in preparation to run the SWG. I have been adding liquid chlorine to keep chlorine at 3ppm. I have been checking the PH and it has been between 7.0 and 7.5. Today it was 7.0. I have basically not added anything additional to the water other than chlorine. Is this okay? When should i start balancing my other parameters, in the spring when I add the salt? I have only been testing the FC, Total Chlorine, and PH, since I have not added anything else. Should i be testing the other parameters yet, or wait until I start adding in the stabilizer, alkalinity increaser / decreaser, and calcium? Thanks so much. I am going to update my signature to include my setup. .Its a 10,000 gallon pool, Vinyl Liner, 2.7 VSP, Jandy True Clear SWG, and a sand filter.
Do I need to balance water if closing right after filling (new liner)?
- Thread starter chrischandler71
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,443
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If you have not added any stabilizer/CYA you should add at least 30 ppm of CYA now and then increase it to 70 ppm when you are ready to turn on your SWG.
Your PoolMath log is empty so tell us what your current chemistry is in the format…
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
SALT
Cya should be 0 and salt should be minimal from the liquid chlorine you have been using.
Your PoolMath log is empty so tell us what your current chemistry is in the format…
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
SALT
Cya should be 0 and salt should be minimal from the liquid chlorine you have been using.
Thanks Allen.
Here are results from this morning.
FC 1.82
CC 0.1
PH 7.0
I have not ran the other numbers because I have not added anything, and just assumed they would be Zero.
I added 16 oz of the liquid walmart chlorine after these results, per the poolmath on my iphone suggestion. It is 10%
Here are results from this morning.
FC 1.82
CC 0.1
PH 7.0
I have not ran the other numbers because I have not added anything, and just assumed they would be Zero.
I added 16 oz of the liquid walmart chlorine after these results, per the poolmath on my iphone suggestion. It is 10%
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,443
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Your TA and CH is not going to be zero. Test it and report the results. Then we can determine if you need to make adjustments.
You need CYA in the water to protect the chlorine even from the winter sun.
You need CYA in the water to protect the chlorine even from the winter sun.
Okay, sorry for the delay in response. I wanted to give the chlorine i put in yesterday 24 hours to circulate. Here are my full results.
FC 2.65
CC - 0
pH - 7.5
TA - 63
CH - 59
CYA - 24
FC 2.65
CC - 0
pH - 7.5
TA - 63
CH - 59
CYA - 24
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,443
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Giving your chlorine 24 hours to circulate also gives the chlorine time to burn off.
We do not think pool store tests are reliable and don’t give specific advice based on pool store tests. If you want to follow TFP methods then get your own test kit - Taylor K2006C or TFT Test Kits
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
www.troublefreepool.com
Your FC should be in the range of 4-6 and CYA should be at least 30. CH does not matter for a vinyl pool without a gas heater. Your alkalinity is fine.
I would not make any of the adjustments the pool store recommends.
www.troublefreepool.com
We do not think pool store tests are reliable and don’t give specific advice based on pool store tests. If you want to follow TFP methods then get your own test kit - Taylor K2006C or TFT Test Kits
Recommended Pool Chemicals
Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.
www.troublefreepool.com
What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?
Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.
www.troublefreepool.com
The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship
Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.
www.troublefreepool.com
Your FC should be in the range of 4-6 and CYA should be at least 30. CH does not matter for a vinyl pool without a gas heater. Your alkalinity is fine.
I would not make any of the adjustments the pool store recommends.
Pool Care Basics Archives
Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
www.troublefreepool.com
Last edited:
This was my own test. I bought the color Q2 which is a digital photometer. It allows me to print out the results. I know that TFP likes the Taylor kits, and I may go that route at some point. This was not a cheap kit at around $250. The test uploads to my phone app, and that is the screenshot that i put on here. It does give recommendations as you can see. Thanks for your assistance. I have learned a lot from this website already. I have read some of the concerns with this type test kit, and they may be valid. I do think my results have been pretty accurate, but I can seeing going the taylor kits long term. I guess my original question was if I should go ahead and balance my water now? I had the new liner placed at the beginning of winter, and have only been adding chlorine. I guess from your response I should go ahead and get my other levels balanced now, and then i can add the salt in the spring. I just was not sure how important it was to get the other values balanced until the weather is warmer, and i get my salt added, and the SWG going. Thanks again for your help. I will read up on the content you provided.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,443
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
What do you intend to do to get your water “balanced”?
The whole idea of “balancing” pool water has no real meaning.
Each chemical you are measuring performs a function. At the correct levels that chemical is doing its job. That is all that counts.
As I said, your water does not need much chemical adjustments.
If you want to use TFP methods then it is best to be using one of the recommended test kits. Otherwise your measurements may not be valid for TFP guidelines.
The whole idea of “balancing” pool water has no real meaning.
Each chemical you are measuring performs a function. At the correct levels that chemical is doing its job. That is all that counts.
As I said, your water does not need much chemical adjustments.
If you want to use TFP methods then it is best to be using one of the recommended test kits. Otherwise your measurements may not be valid for TFP guidelines.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,720
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
If you have only ever added liquid chlorine, how are you testing a level of 24 for CYA?