Red Flow light on IC60

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Holland59

New member
Aug 11, 2022
3
winnipeg
Our pool was installed in May of 2021 so all of our equipment is new. It’s a salt water pool so we have an Inteliclor IC60 salinator installed and up until this year, it has been great.

Our issue this year is that the red “flow light” comes on all the time. I can’t keep the flow rate in the pool up, and so our water is constantly sitting still in warm weather.

I’ve cleaned all the filters (though I didn’t get the 2 main ones chemically cleaned over the winter) and every time I clean the main ones, the light turns green for the day, but then reverts back to red as soon as the rpms drop. It’s a frustrating experience as a pool owner right now.

Any ideas would help.
 
59,

It could be a flow switch issue, but it sounds like alage to me, even if you can't see it yet.

Algae will quickly clog a filter, which reduces the water flow, and then turns off the flow switch.

I'm confused.. You have more than one filter??? What kind of filter do you have?

What speed are you running the pump?

Do you feel a good strong flow when you put your hand in front of a pool return?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Chances are you have a nascent algae issue.

Post a full test of current test results from one of the recommended test kits.
Test Kits Compared

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature

Do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and report the results here.

Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This assists us in providing help based on your specific pool without needing to ask you each time.
 
Jimrahbe said:
59,

It could be a flow switch issue, but it sounds like alage to me, even if you can't see it yet.

Algae will quickly clog a filter, which reduces the water flow, and then turns off the flow switch.

I'm confused.. You have more than one filter??? What kind of filter do you have?

What speed are you running the pump?

Do you feel a good strong flow when you put your hand in front of a pool return?

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
The filter casing has two filters in it…one skinny one and one bigger, wider one. I’ve attached photos to show you my setup.

If it is algae build up (which is quite possible) all of these problems with the light see to have happened before and because I wasn’t getting any water circulation, it’s building up.

Right now, I run the pump at 2250 rpms and the flow light will stay green for a few hours, maybe a day, after I’ve cleaned both filters. If I want it to stay green, I have to bump it up to 2850 rpms…which I don’t like because I feel like the pump is working too hard.

Water is murky and water test seem close to normal, but a bit off on ph and alkalinity.
 

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proavia said:
Chances are you have a nascent algae issue.

Post a full test of current test results from one of the recommended test kits.
Test Kits Compared

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature

Do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and report the results here.

Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers) and test kit info.
This assists us in providing help based on your specific pool without needing to ask you each time.
Click to expand...
I responded to the person before you. Can you take a look at those pics and see if I’ve missed anything you need? Water temp is 84. I don’t know what an OCLT is?

Appreciate the help.
 
Holland59 said:
The filter casing has two filters in it…one skinny one and one bigger, wider one. I’ve attached photos to show you my setup.

If it is algae build up (which is quite possible) all of these problems with the light see to have happened before and because I wasn’t getting any water circulation, it’s building up.

Right now, I run the pump at 2250 rpms and the flow light will stay green for a few hours, maybe a day, after I’ve cleaned both filters. If I want it to stay green, I have to bump it up to 2850 rpms…which I don’t like because I feel like the pump is working too hard.

Water is murky and water test seem close to normal, but a bit off on ph and alkalinity.
Click to expand...
2850 won't overwork your pump, but shouldn't be needed. The murky condition of the water screams "ALGAE!" Algae can start growing and be unseen until there is enough, then it appears murky white until the chlorophyll develops and it turns green. Its basically just an underwater plant. Water at that temperature and low chlorine are an algae's version of a day spa.
 
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59,

It appears to me that you have algae and that is why your filter keeps plugging up and causing the flow slow down,

A salt cell will not be able to make more chlorine than your algae can eat.

You need to perform what we call a SLAM..


I now understand.. You have one filter that has two cartridges..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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