Adding water turns my pool green, help!

RealN00b

New member
Jun 1, 2023
3
Connecticut
Hi all - first time posting here, but I've found the content here amazing, so thanks for that.

New pool owner - have a vinyl liner pool that also has a salt water system (cell). I finally just got my pool crystal clear and looking great. After a few days, I notice the water levels have dropped a few inches so need to add water (I fear a leak, but thats a whole separate issue). The water I'm adding is via a hose from well water. I'm guessing there is a lot of iron/minerals in our water here. The issue I have is that when I top up the pool, it goes from perfectly clear to green in about 2-hours. I'm told it may have something to do with the metal in my well water? I'm not sure, but I need help figuring it out as if I have to top of the pool every few days, having it turn green each time is going to really be a tough experience. Any way to address this? Open to all ideas! Thank you! (before and after photos attached)

If it helps, I tested my water with a Taylor 2006 kit and here are my levels:

pH: 7.4
FC: 0.8
CC: 0.4
Alkalinity: 90
Calcium: 180
CYA: 30
Salt: 3000
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3934.jpg
    IMG_3934.jpg
    82.1 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_4069.jpg
    IMG_4069.jpg
    57.2 KB · Views: 8
Welcome to the forums! Glad you are here!

There are a lot of people here that are experts with well water. I suspect that is going to be part of it. Have you ever had your well water tested (recently?) for minerals and metals?

Also, your FC seems pretty low.

Could you update your profile and signature with your pool and equipment details along with your location so we can all better assist? Thank you!
 
Welcome to TFP!!! :swim: :swim:

It is more likely that your FC was low and there were contaminants in your water and you now have algae...let's solve that first.

How are you testing? If you don't have a test kit, order one now. Link--> Test Kits Compared

If you don't have a test kit, then add 5ppm of liquid chlorine a day until it arrives.

If you have a good test kit,
  1. Add 5ppm of chlorine tomorrow.
  2. Do this test tomorrow. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
  3. Ensure you have at least 3ppm FC when you do the test.
If you fail the OCLT, you need to SLAM. Link-->SLAM Process
 
  • Like
Reactions: dBsooner
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Your have two issues right now:
1. Well water is adding iron. The more you add the more iron you get and it will react with chlorine.
2. Your FC is so low you are going to get algae off it hasn't started already. Once you get shae, you have to do a SLAM Process.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dBsooner
Welcome to TFP! :wave: Your have two issues right now:
1. Well water is adding iron. The more you add the more iron you get and it will react with chlorine.
2. Your FC is so low you are going to get algae off it hasn't started already. Once you get shae, you have to do a SLAM Process.

Regarding 1: how do I get out of this cycle? Is there a filter or something for the hose I can use? I’ll always need to add well water to top up the pool and there will always be chlorine so what do I do?
 
1: how do I get out of this cycle? Is there a filter or something for the hose I can use? I’ll always need to add well water to top up the pool and there will always be chlorine so what do I do?
Unless you have the ability to have non-iron water trucked in, try using Polyfill as much as you can to mechanically filter as much iron out as possible. Polyfill can be exceptionally helpful when the iron has precipitated outward in a state of water color changes and potential staining. Once you have removed as much iron as possible, then you may find yourself needing to use a sequestrant on a regular basis.

If you get algae, the a SLAM Process will be required and that elevated FC level will cause the iron to react. We always treat for iron first, then determine how to manage the iron next.

The following are other examples.


full
 
Sequestrant is a chemical that binds to the iron in the water so that it can't form stains or turn brown. Sequestrant breaks down slowly, so you need to add more regularly. ProTeam's Metal Magic and Jack's Magic the Pink Stuff (regular), the Blue Stuff (fresh plaster), and the Purple Stuff (SWG) are some of the top sequestrants. You can also find other brands with similar products, some of which are noticeably less expensive. Sequestrants based on HEDP, phosphonic acid, or phosphonic acid derivatives are the most effective.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.