Salt Water Cell

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Newdude said:
OK. So your target range will likely be in the high teens and you've been running a 3. You effectively have no chlorine and even if you added a few ppm a day, it was WAY to little.

With any luck you have irritation from that, not the pool. This fits with why you don't notice the FC in the shower but the pool is a problem.

We need a dilution test as a CYA of 90+ gets unable to decipher. Fill the bottle half with pool water and half with tap water. Shake well and dump half of it out, back down to the lable. Then add the CYA reagent and test. Double the result.

Any idea how it got so high if it was in range recently ?

Anytime. :)
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I’m sorry, I don’t have a lot of the CYA liquid left. Do I fill the plastic bottle (see pic) with half tap and half pool and then drain it to the 7, then add CYA reagent back to 14 like I did in the test I sent previously?

I think I misread the CYA reading previously. I believe it was similar to what I just sent you. It’s always been high. I use Leslie’s tablets. I think I’ll get murdered for this one. 😂

Normally my free chlorine is much higher (6-7 typically), but I thought reducing my chlorine might help my skin. It’s still winter but I got in the hot tub at FC = 7-8 a few weeks ago and my skin was a mess afterwards.

Just ordered the salt test kit from Taylor per your recommendation. Thank you again for your help.
 

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Geophffrey said:
Do I fill the plastic bottle (see pic) with half tap and half pool and then drain it to the 7, then add CYA reagent back to 14 like I did in the test I sent previously?
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Yes.

Water Testing Instructions - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

For cold water (<70F), let sample warm up first

CYA > 90 dilution Test​

For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:
  1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark (15 ml line) with pool water.
  2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark (30 ml line) with tap water.
  3. Shake briefly to mix.
  4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark (15 ml line).
  5. Continue the test normally from adding R-0013, but multiply the final result by two.

If you need to dilute the pool water further then apply these ratios:


Pool waterTap or distilled waterMultiply result by
112
123
145

Note that when doing a diluted test not only do you multiply the range of the test you multiply the error rate of the test, so results are a ballpark - not an absolute.

See CYA Testing for tips in how to read the test results.
 
ajw22 said:
Your high CYA level shows that you need to stop chlorinating your pool using TriChlor as TriChlor adds CYA with every tablet.

You need to chlorinate your pool with liquid chlorine or a SWG. A SWG looks expensive only because you are buying a few years of chlorine upfront. When you factor in the time saved not lugging tablets or jugs the SWG is well worth the expense.

With a Jandy system you should get the Jandy Aquapure SWG that interfaces with your IAqualink.

Pool Salt System: Jandy AquaPure Salt Water Pool System | Jandy

Looking for a Pool Salt System? Find the Jandy AquaPure Salt Water Pool System for the Perfect Pool Experience. Buy Now w/ a Pool Pro Near You!
www.jandy.com www.jandy.com

Jandy AquaPure SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Good lord I learn a lot from y’all. Thank you so much. My equipment is all Pentair and works fine with the iAquaLink. But the Jandy is what I should get?

Do you think the high CYA is what is bugging my skin?

I’ve used the tablets because the pool builder suggested it. But I think I’m starting to learn troublefreepool101 now.. you all use liquid chlorine right? The pool builder put CYA in the pool when I first filled it to save on chlorine usage. This is all confusing.
 
Geophffrey said:
I’m sorry, I don’t have a lot of the CYA liquid left. Do I fill the plastic bottle (see pic) with half tap and half pool and then drain it to the 7, then add CYA reagent back to 14 like I did in the test I sent previously
Click to expand...
Yes. A 50/50 mix of pool and tap. (To 14). Dump to the 7 and add CYA reagent to 14.
Geophffrey said:
Do you think the high CYA is what is bugging my skin?
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No. The almost non existent FC is the likely cause, even if you were at 6 or 7 at times. The rookie mistake is using less chlorine because reasons, when you needed *more*.
Geophffrey said:
I’ve used the tablets because the pool builder suggested it
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The road to TFP is well paved with similar. We got you now. :)
 
ajw22 said:
Yes.

Water Testing Instructions - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

For cold water (<70F), let sample warm up first

CYA > 90 dilution Test​

For CYA > 90ppm, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:
  1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark (15 ml line) with pool water.
  2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark (30 ml line) with tap water.
  3. Shake briefly to mix.
  4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark (15 ml line).
  5. Continue the test normally from adding R-0013, but multiply the final result by two.

If you need to dilute the pool water further then apply these ratios:


Pool waterTap or distilled waterMultiply result by
112
123
145

Note that when doing a diluted test not only do you multiply the range of the test you multiply the error rate of the test, so results are a ballpark - not an absolute.

See CYA Testing for tips in how to read the test results.
Click to expand...
Man I feel like an idiot. I appreciate your knowledge. So I did the half/half and CYA reagent. Here is a pic of the result. It’s a little over 50 so if I double it’s probably 105 for CYA.
 

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Newdude said:
Yes. A 50/50 mix of pool and tap. (To 14). Dump to the 7 and add CYA reagent to 14.

No. The almost non existent FC is the likely cause, even if you were at 6 or 7 at times. The rookie mistake is using less chlorine because reasons, when you needed *more*.

The road to TFP is well paved with similar. We got you now. :)
Click to expand...
❤️ thank you my friend!
 
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Geophffrey said:
Good lord I learn a lot from y’all. Thank you so much. My equipment is all Pentair and works fine with the iAquaLink. But the Jandy is what I should get?
Click to expand...

Why did you end up with all Pentair equipment and a Jandy Aqualink?

Help us help you by creating your signature describing your pool and listing your equipment with model numbers.

The Aqualink can only control the Jandy SWG. You don't have to have your Aqualink control the SWG. I had an Aqualink with my IntelliChlor SWG for a few years until I replaced the Aqualink with the Pentair IntelliCenter.


Geophffrey said:
Do you think the high CYA is what is bugging my skin?
Click to expand...

Not the high CYA, but maybe the low chlorine.

You need to maintain the proper FC/CYA ratio of 7.5% to 10%. So the higher your CYA is the higher your FC needs to be.

Geophffrey said:
I’ve used the tablets because the pool builder suggested it. But I think I’m starting to learn troublefreepool101 now.. you all use liquid chlorine right? The pool builder put CYA in the pool when I first filled it to save on chlorine usage. This is all confusing.
Click to expand...

CYA is good up to a limit. CYA of around 40 for a Texas pool chlorinating with tablets or liquid chlorine. Or CYA around 70 when you have a SWG.

The problem with Trichlor is it keeps adding CYA with every use and gets CYA into the 100's and beyond.
 
Geophffrey said:
Man I feel like an idiot. I appreciate your knowledge. So I did the half/half and CYA reagent. Here is a pic of the result. It’s a little over 50 so if I double it’s probably 105 for CYA.
Click to expand...

If you get a SWG you need to lower your CYA to around 70-80 which means a 20%-30% drain of your pool.

If you stay using Trichlor or liquid chlorine you need to get your CYa down around 40 and drain about 60% of your water.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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Are you using PoolMath to record and share your test results?

Post a complete set of test results in the format:

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
 
+1 to ALL that ^^^^^^ :ROFLMAO:

On the plus side, draining an Intex style pool 60% doesn't carry the risks associated with the same in inground pools.
 

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Also, here is the difference between a 40 and 100 CYA. Both ranges are equivalent in sanitizing and feel due to the CYA.

Screenshot_20230316_175328_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20230316_175142_Chrome.jpg
 
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Newdude said:
I was going from the profile pic

View attachment 477504

The house behind it sure looks Texas-y.


But now I see plaster in the profile so I dunno. Lol.
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Hey…That’s a good lookin kid right there.

The intex is how this started. We got bigger and bigger. Our current pool is in ground, plaster, etc. My profile is up to date. I might need to add the equipment.

I can start using pool math. I’d been under the assumption that Ph and FC were the main tests. Looks like CYA is extremely important. Why the heck are the test bottles for CYA so small?? I just shocked the pool. That should increase the chlorine. But I’m still thinking salt water is best for me and am interested in the SWG.

I don’t know how my equipment was matched with an iAquaLink control panel. My pool builder was awful. It seems to work okay though.

Where do you get liquid chlorine and larger test bottles for CYA from?
 
CYA should only be tested once a month.
For additional reagents you can look at TFTestkits.net.
 
When doing the CYA test...
You can pour the mixture back into the mixing bottle, mix and do the test multiple times using the original mixture. Write down the results and take an average of those results. Also, always round up - if the test shows between 50 and 60, call it 60. And since you were doing the diluted test, double that 60.... so CYA 120. Margin of error increases when doing the diluted test.
 
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+1. I test 3 times and use the 2 that agree.

How do I already know that one of them won't agree ? Because that 🤬 Googley eye LAUGHS at every last one of us. Punk.
 
Newdude said:
I was going from the profile pic

View attachment 477504

The house behind it sure looks Texas-y.


But now I see plaster in the profile so I dunno. Lol.
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Comment seems like you’re making fun of me or Texas or intex pools. Some people can likely only afford intex pools so that seems a bit harsh. Kind of confused on this one. I do live in Texas and my profile is up to date. In-ground plaster pool.
wireform said:
Before the temps get your water down and ugly I'd do a
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see what's going on at the moment. Just because the water looks clear doesn't mean the algae process hasn't started.
Click to expand...
thank you for this. I’ll try this out and see. Mostly I’m just looking to convert to salt for my skin issues.
 

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