If there were no cya in the water then that would be true about using liquid chlorine/bleach but with 30+ppm cya already in the water the fc burning off rapidly isn’t a problem.
If you have bleach available you should switch to that now & chlorinate appropriately to keep the water sanitary
Which means a minimum fc of at least 12ppm lest nasties will grow.
.... "Min FC" is 7.5% of the CYA level
.... "Target FC" is 11.5% of the CYA level
.... "Shock FC" is 40% of the CYA level
EDIT: You will find a simplified and standardized version of this chart at Pool School, Chlorine / CYA Chart. Chlorine/CYA Chart by Chemgeek FC = Free Chlorine in parts-per-million (ppm) CYA = Cyanuric Acid in parts-per-million (ppm) CYA ........... Min FC3 ..... Target FC ...... Yel/Mstrd...
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If at all possible you should exchange some water to get the cya down now. November is really far away.
FC levels above 10ppm render the phenol red ph test invalid & can bleach out test strips so you can see how maintaining this level of cya & it’s necessary corresponding fc can be tumultuous.
How are you currently testing the water ?
About the powdered chlorine…
It’s likely either trichlor, dichlor or cal hypo.
Trichlor & dichlor add cya along with the fc,
Cal hypo adds calcium along with the fc,
With these the fc gets consumed daily but the cya or calcium stay in the water & build up until it is replaced.
If you’re away alot, a salt water chlorine generator may be the best solution for the daily chlorination if they are available there.
Before chlorinating your pool, you should know these simple tips. Learn the best way to add chlorine to your pool.
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