Out of curiosity, for a short time like this, would it be good to heat the pool up to a certain point or is that asking for more damage? Or get it to a temperature and stop heating? Sorry just thinking out loud.
Freeze Preparations (TX, LA, GA, AL, FL, etc)
- Thread starter Birdman75
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,124
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
WBW
Gold Supporter
Freeze is coming this Thursday evening and extending for a good 3 days here in Central TX with temps at night in the teens and 20's. I have freeze protection and in our most recent low temps within the past week, my main pump kicks on at 1500 rpms and my in-floor cleaner pump kicks on at 2600( the RPM was advised per Paramount and PB for adequate pressure on the pop-ups. The RPM for the in-floor cleaner is all good under normal conditions. But considering the temps looks like it will be below 37 degrees for a number of days(which is when my freeze protection kicks on) am I really concerned about adequate pressure on the pop-ups or just to get water flow in both pumps? Can I bring the RPM's down to say 1500-2000? No sense in burning electricity when I don't need to. Thanks,
I live in Austin. I've spent most of my time prepping my auto fill. I replaced the insulation and wrapped it as best i could in rubberized tape. I also shut off the supply and drained the backflow. I'll be tarping both the pool equipment and the portion of the autofill line that is above ground. Beyond that - I'll let freeze protection do its thing. I was fortunate to not lose power during the 2021 freeze due to being located near a fire station and other critical infrastructure - but have a plan to drain my pool equipment just in case.
what does #5 do?I just finished my pool prep for the 6 degree fun coming our way. Will be out of town and did exactly what worked
for me during last years freeze-a-thon.
1-Turned off the circuit breaker (power to the pool equip)
2-Removed the 2 plugs at the base of the pump. Opened the pressure valve on the filter
and removed it's plug at the base.
3-Let water drain out.
4-Put all plugs into pump basket (ya have to replace them to start it all back up, so a good place for them)
5-Floated a plastic liter bottle 2/3 full of Marine/RV antifreeze in each skimmer.
It might be overkill for this weather event but I don't need to be worrying about it, so this is what works
for me. YMMV.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,641
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
WBW
Gold Supporter
- Nov 7, 2018
- 1,049
- Pool Size
- 14000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
If ice forms in the skimmer, the bottle will take the brunt of any expansion as opposed to the skimmer.
- Nov 7, 2018
- 1,049
- Pool Size
- 14000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I would at least tarp it, but give enough room for heat to dissipate from the motor. It looks like it's going to be pretty cold and with that wind, I would be concerned with power outages so be prepared to drain your pad equipment.
Ft Worth Forecast:
Ft Worth Forecast:
- Nov 7, 2018
- 1,049
- Pool Size
- 14000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I did that last year, but it came with risks...and I admittedly lucked out. Many heater warranties will be void if you run your heater under a certain temperature and it's advisable that *if* you run it then get it to at least 68 degrees before shutting it down due to condensation and the resultant corrosion that causes. I don't know how cold it's supposed to get in your neck of the woods, but we didn't have problems with the below freezing water in our parts until 5 days into the freeze and several nights below zero.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,917
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
For those who typically do NOT close their pool, it is inevitable that harsh winter weather conditions will hit your area at some point. So what do you do? Below are some key points to help you prepare for a cold winter blast and hard freezes over a few days.
1. Keep the water moving! Moving water is extremely difficult to freeze. Automation is great - when it works, If your system has freeze protection, watch it closely to ensure it is operating properly. Every year many systems shut off due to a faulty freeze protection issue. If in doubt, turn it off and manually set the system to run 24/7 until the sub-freezing temps subside.
2. HAVE A BACKUP PLAN FOR POWER OUTAGES! Power outages are our worst enemy. As such, you must have backup plans should you loose power for an extended period of time. Consider the following:
a. Know how to drain your equipment quickly if power does not return. Look for drain plugs on your pump pot, filter, and heater if applicable.
b. With the exception of the pump motor itself, consider wrapping exposed plumbing and equipment with insulation materials. There are a variety of materials available to help protect exposed items from the freeze. Protecting these items can buy you enough time until power returns or allows you to drain equipment.
c. Place a tarp or heavy blanket over the pad. Some people might even place a small light under the covering for warmth.
d. If you have accessories you cannot keep running (i.e. waterfall, spill-overs, etc), consider closing those in advance. If you can gain access to the outlet area of that feature, try to vacuum out some water close to the ground’s surface or plumbing exit. Perhaps add some RV antifreeze to the plumbing at that exit area for insurance.
e. Watch for standing water. This could be a factor for waterfalls as the water may slip into cracks and grout areas then later expend and cause damage. Remove standing water and/or consider covering the area with a tarp if possible if you have concerns.
f. Have a couple pieces of cut-up pool noodle or a plastic jug (half full) to place in the skimmer(s) should power not return for a long time. Also consider placing a cover over the skimmer lid to prevent it from freezing stuck in-place.
g. Autofills - Remember that any exposed autofill line will NOT have water actively moving through it. Water only moves when it's filling the pool. If possible, shut that autofill line and purge some water from it if possible to prevent expansion in the line. At the very least be sure to wrap any exposed autofill lines really well.
h. Heaters - Best to allow water to run through them, but do not activate heat mode. Only allow water to continuously flow. As with other equipment, know where your drain plugs are if power is lost for a significant amount of time.
i. Inspect all areas at the pad for leaks. These tiny leaks will be the first to freeze. Some could be harmful to equipment. Try to resolve if possible or take extra precautions to protect the area from freezing if possible.
These are just a few examples. Your pool set-up and location may dictate other requirements.
1. Keep the water moving! Moving water is extremely difficult to freeze. Automation is great - when it works, If your system has freeze protection, watch it closely to ensure it is operating properly. Every year many systems shut off due to a faulty freeze protection issue. If in doubt, turn it off and manually set the system to run 24/7 until the sub-freezing temps subside.
2. HAVE A BACKUP PLAN FOR POWER OUTAGES! Power outages are our worst enemy. As such, you must have backup plans should you loose power for an extended period of time. Consider the following:
a. Know how to drain your equipment quickly if power does not return. Look for drain plugs on your pump pot, filter, and heater if applicable.
b. With the exception of the pump motor itself, consider wrapping exposed plumbing and equipment with insulation materials. There are a variety of materials available to help protect exposed items from the freeze. Protecting these items can buy you enough time until power returns or allows you to drain equipment.
c. Place a tarp or heavy blanket over the pad. Some people might even place a small light under the covering for warmth.
d. If you have accessories you cannot keep running (i.e. waterfall, spill-overs, etc), consider closing those in advance. If you can gain access to the outlet area of that feature, try to vacuum out some water close to the ground’s surface or plumbing exit. Perhaps add some RV antifreeze to the plumbing at that exit area for insurance.
e. Watch for standing water. This could be a factor for waterfalls as the water may slip into cracks and grout areas then later expend and cause damage. Remove standing water and/or consider covering the area with a tarp if possible if you have concerns.
f. Have a couple pieces of cut-up pool noodle or a plastic jug (half full) to place in the skimmer(s) should power not return for a long time. Also consider placing a cover over the skimmer lid to prevent it from freezing stuck in-place.
g. Autofills - Remember that any exposed autofill line will NOT have water actively moving through it. Water only moves when it's filling the pool. If possible, shut that autofill line and purge some water from it if possible to prevent expansion in the line. At the very least be sure to wrap any exposed autofill lines really well.
h. Heaters - Best to allow water to run through them, but do not activate heat mode. Only allow water to continuously flow. As with other equipment, know where your drain plugs are if power is lost for a significant amount of time.
i. Inspect all areas at the pad for leaks. These tiny leaks will be the first to freeze. Some could be harmful to equipment. Try to resolve if possible or take extra precautions to protect the area from freezing if possible.
These are just a few examples. Your pool set-up and location may dictate other requirements.
Last edited:
Im in KY! Where it will get to -3 and —20 wind chills…. It will be well below freezing for 5 days. I do have a whole home generator so power should not be a problem. iAqualink freeze protection is on. I also have my heater set to kick on if water temp goes below 37. Current water temp is 44…..fingers crossed. Open to advice!
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,917
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I have a concern about the heater coming on in such cold temps. Perhaps @ajw22 can confirm if you should bypass it altogether.
I just finished my pool prep for the 6 degree fun coming our way. Will be out of town and did exactly what worked
for me during last years freeze-a-thon.
1-Turned off the circuit breaker (power to the pool equip)
2-Removed the 2 plugs at the base of the pump. Opened the pressure valve on the filter
and removed it's plug at the base.
3-Let water drain out.
4-Put all plugs into pump basket (ya have to replace them to start it all back up, so a good place for them)
5-Floated a plastic liter bottle 2/3 full of Marine/RV antifreeze in each skimmer.
It might be overkill for this weather event but I don't need to be worrying about it, so this is what works
for me. YMMV.
After this do you call it a day for the winter (until spring opening) or do you start the pump etc again when all clear from the freeze ?
I'm in middle TN and we will be out of town. I will be draining filter and pump. My equipment is above water level in the pool. Wonder if I need to drain water level below jets and clear the pipes etc or will draining the pump/filter and screwing in Gizmos be enough? Anyone's thoughts are appreciated. This is the first year not winterizing for us and all has gone well so far with just a tarp and a small lamp and a little pipe insulation. thanks
Would love some quick advice prior to an extended unusually cold streak about to hit our area. I normally keep my pool equipment running through the winter and use a Freeze Defender to make sure it circulates during any freezes.
Currently I'm at the tail end of a project that involved moving our pool pad and all our equipment. I haven't yet turned the pump back on and started water recirculating, so none of the equipment at the pad has any water in it (pump, heat pump, filter, swg, and various valves.
I'd been scrambling to try to get everything running again prior to the freezing (single digits) weather that's supposed to hit our area starting on Friday, and could *probably* get it done by tomorrow, but I'm worried that until I turn everything on, I won't know for sure whether I have any leaks at the newly plumbed pad, or whether I'll have any other unexpected problems that could've occurred during the relocation.
Am I better off just leaving everything dry? The lines likely have a bit of water in them just from rain falling into the open ends of pipes that were being re-routed, but they've been plugged at the pool end (as has the skimmer) so I'm assuming whatever water is in them wouldn't be enough to cause cracking problems if it freezes. In other words, I'm hoping there's plenty of room for any water in them to expand safely. So one option is to just lower the pool level enough to get below the skimmer and return lines, dry out the skimmer while leaving it and all the returns plugged, and let the water in the pool itself freeze.
But please tell me if that's a bad idea and could hurt the pool itself (Pebble Tec). If I need to, I'll keep scrambling to at least get the pump running, and maybe bypass the heater, so water is able to circulate continuously during the freeze. And I guess just hope I didn't make any mistakes I haven't found yet in setting everything back up!
What do you guys suggest?
Currently I'm at the tail end of a project that involved moving our pool pad and all our equipment. I haven't yet turned the pump back on and started water recirculating, so none of the equipment at the pad has any water in it (pump, heat pump, filter, swg, and various valves.
I'd been scrambling to try to get everything running again prior to the freezing (single digits) weather that's supposed to hit our area starting on Friday, and could *probably* get it done by tomorrow, but I'm worried that until I turn everything on, I won't know for sure whether I have any leaks at the newly plumbed pad, or whether I'll have any other unexpected problems that could've occurred during the relocation.
Am I better off just leaving everything dry? The lines likely have a bit of water in them just from rain falling into the open ends of pipes that were being re-routed, but they've been plugged at the pool end (as has the skimmer) so I'm assuming whatever water is in them wouldn't be enough to cause cracking problems if it freezes. In other words, I'm hoping there's plenty of room for any water in them to expand safely. So one option is to just lower the pool level enough to get below the skimmer and return lines, dry out the skimmer while leaving it and all the returns plugged, and let the water in the pool itself freeze.
But please tell me if that's a bad idea and could hurt the pool itself (Pebble Tec). If I need to, I'll keep scrambling to at least get the pump running, and maybe bypass the heater, so water is able to circulate continuously during the freeze. And I guess just hope I didn't make any mistakes I haven't found yet in setting everything back up!
What do you guys suggest?
- Nov 7, 2018
- 1,049
- Pool Size
- 14000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I would let it be. No sense in filling the system with water when you don't know if there will be leaks or other issues that you would be scrambling to deal with. I would just make sure all valves are open and any plugs are removed from equipment that MIGHT have water sitting. Is there any way for any water in the PVC to move (as in not plugged in both directions)?
Also, is there actually water in the skimmer? If so, you might want to put some cut up pool noodles or a plastic jug in there to absorb any expansion that could result from freezing water.
Also, is there actually water in the skimmer? If so, you might want to put some cut up pool noodles or a plastic jug in there to absorb any expansion that could result from freezing water.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,917
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Once the harsh weather is gone, you can pull-back the covers and let the system run again like before. Keep everything available though in case you see another weather system come in.
Might need some others from the TN area to confirm. Depends on your typical frost line. Often times the soil does a good job protecting plumbing unless you are really up north where they have a deep frost line. If you already have a Gizmo, you certainly could install it before leaving. If not, some cut-up pool noodles or plastic jugs to help absorb potential expansion in the skimmer will work as well.
Thanks. There is water in the skimmer but I was thinking if I don't try to run the equipment I would drain a few inches from the pool to get it below the skimmer level then suck/dry the water out of the skimmer.
If I do that I could also remove the plugs from the return lines to make sure any excess water in there has a chance to drain. I wouldn't be able to thoroughly blow the lines out or anything, but I would at least know there's not a significant amount of water in the lines, and it would be open then on the pool end.
Does that seem like the best strategy to you?
Help! I'm in Houston (specifically the Braeswood/BellIare area just off Stella Link) and currently 2500 miles away from my pool. I'm a relatively new owner, so I don't know if freeze protection works on my system (it's about 10 years old)... Long shot, but is anyone in the area able to throw my breakers and open the pump and filter for some cash? We haven't been there long enough to know any handy neighbors yet
- Nov 7, 2018
- 1,049
- Pool Size
- 14000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I think that is pretty prudent and fairly safe. I am sure others will chime in as well.