Raypak heater stalling at 98 in spa

Jump to latest Follow Reply
ddoggphx

ddoggphx

Silver Supporter
Sep 8, 2021
241
Phoenix AZ
Pool Size
10000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-9)
We have a new pool that we built by owner, with attached spa. The heater is set at 101, but it only reaches 98. This is both manual or via automation (hayward omnilogic). The spa is not large, 8x8 square and the heater is well sized for it.

Not only that, but it also seems to sketch out around 97 degrees, sometimes cools off to 95 then kicks back in to 97/98.

What should I be looking at to see the issue? The heat limiter shouldn't be causing that, right? What other thermal measurements are there to troubleshoot? It seems like the system isn't measuring the temp accurately.

Also this happens even if inchange the setpoint to 104 (which is its cap).

Pump at 100%, filters all clean.

Raypak RP2100 Digital Heater -

Raypak RP2100 Digital Heater - R406A - Copper - Natural Gas - P-R406A-EN-C #50 - INYOPools.com

Raypak Heaters RP Series
www.inyopools.com
 
Pool heater should be set to 104. Automation should be set to your desired temperature. If you take the heater out of "bO" mode and fire it manually, it should reach your set temperature. If not, you could have a bad temperature sensor in the heater. If it does reach temperature, the problem would seem to be in the automation, again probably a water-temp sensor. Even new, they are, on a rare occasion, bad.
Either way, it should be a warranty issue, but if the equipment wasn't professionally installed, the warranties are very limited.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ddoggphx
1poolman1 said:
Pool heater should be set to 104. Automation should be set to your desired temperature. If you take the heater out of "bO" mode and fire it manually, it should reach your set temperature. If not, you could have a bad temperature sensor in the heater. If it does reach temperature, the problem would seem to be in the automation, again probably a water-temp sensor. Even new, they are, on a rare occasion, bad.
Either way, it should be a warranty issue, but if the equipment wasn't professionally installed, the warranties are very limited.
Click to expand...
The setpoint on the unit is 104. Automation I have at 101 and then took it to 104 to see if anything would change.

What is b0 mode?
 
ddoggphx said:
The setpoint on the unit is 104. Automation I have at 101 and then took it to 104 to see if anything would change.

What is b0 mode?
Click to expand...
Some of the older RayPak heaters would show "bO" when being controlled by automation, which was the same as Hayward. I believe it stood for "bypass operation" but was never told. That's just the way I refer to it. They changed it to "rem" or "remote" depending on which software revision was in the newer board. If this is a very new RayPak, I don't remember what the indication of remote-control is as the new display has more than one line of text.

Point is you need to know what is turning the heater off at 98 degrees and isolating the heater from the automation is how it is done. If, on its own, the heater stops at 98, the problem is in the heater (most likely). If it heats to the proper temp the problem is in the automation (again, most likely). In either case, it is usually the temperature sensor that causes the problem, even if self-diagnostics say otherwise. A sensor can test good but fail in use when the water gets hot, seen it many times.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: ddoggphx
1poolman1 said:
Some of the older RayPak heaters would show "bO" when being controlled by automation, which was the same as Hayward. I believe it stood for "bypass operation" but was never told. That's just the way I refer to it. They changed it to "rem" or "remote" depending on which software revision was in the newer board. If this is a very new RayPak, I don't remember what the indication of remote-control is as the new display has more than one line of text.

Point is you need to know what is turning the heater off at 98 degrees and isolating the heater from the automation is how it is done. If, on its own, the heater stops at 98, the problem is in the heater (most likely). If it heats to the proper temp the problem is in the automation (again, most likely). In either case, it is usually the temperature sensor that causes the problem, even if self-diagnostics say otherwise. A sensor can test good but fail in use when the water gets hot, seen it many times.
Click to expand...
OK I ran into a snag here. Got it ready to be replaced nut I don't know where this washer goes. They sensors all ready to put in, but where does this need to be? When I try to install it and did a leak check, the silver sensor pushed up and out so clearly that washer was in the wrong spot. Everything else seems to be pretty straightforward but I don't see a reference to this washer out there
20221117_151951.jpg20221117_152001.jpg20221117_152005.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
A few angles
 

Attachments

  • 20221119_110636.jpg
    20221119_110636.jpg
    879.3 KB · Views: 7
  • 20221119_110643.jpg
    20221119_110643.jpg
    920.1 KB · Views: 6
  • 20221119_110650.jpg
    20221119_110650.jpg
    571.7 KB · Views: 7
It is kind of upside down. It isn't bypassing the heater.

I have replaced the sensor and now it is heating up. But I also think there is a reversal of the pool and spa in automation (not reality) where it was stopping at the pool setpoint, but running spa mode. So I changed the setpoint manually and went remote, and now it gets up to 101. Much improved!!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Poolbreh
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply