Texas IG Gunite Build

squidflyer

Member
Sep 6, 2022
10
Texas
First, thanks in advance to everyone who contributes their time and knowledge in helping others like myself with this process that can sometimes seem overwhelming. As the thread title says, we are about to start the process of building an inground gunite pool north of Houston. We are about to contact some builders to get some quotes but depending on the bids, I am also considering an owner build. I have some construction and contracting experience but have never built nor even owned a pool before. The below specifications and criteria are just best practices that I have researched here and other places, and from previous construction experience. That said, I have nerve built a pool and ANY guidance and/or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

POOL:
Size: Free form ~43’ Long X ~21’ wide In Ground Gunite
Perimeter: ~116 Linear Feet
Volume: ~36,000 Gallons
Surface Area: ~765 Sq. Ft.
Depth: 4’ shallow to 8’ deep with a sloping transition of 1’ depth per 3’ horizontal
Plumbing: 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 1 dedicated vacuum inlet, 6 main pool returns (1 plumbed to chiller), 6 returns to weeping wall water feature, 2 overflow, 1 fill line
Plaster: TBD - Pebble Sheen Black Onyx or Stone Scapes Black Mini or Similar dark pebble
Coping: Oklahoma Flagstone or similar
Pump: Pentair IntellliFlo VSF
Filter: Pentair Clean and Clear 520 Plus (Cartridge)
Sanitation System: Pentair IntelliChlor IC60 Salt Cell Generator
Chiller: Glacier GPC215 ?? (still debating whether to go with chiller or not)
Lighting: (4) Pentair MicroBrite Color LEDs facing away from house

FEATURES:
~19 linear feet of 6” tall raised beam faced with waterline tile
~27 linear feet of small boulder weeping wall water feature set into coping and waterline
(1) diving boulder set into coping
~8’ long cove bench in shallow end and ~8’ long bench in deep end
(2) umbrella sleeves to be set into coping / bond beam

STEEL SPECS:
Bond Beam – #4 Rebar 4-Bar Box Beam
Rebar extending through sides of beam at decking locations
Floor and wall – #4 Rebar on 8” Centers. With extra vertical steel at deep end??
Rebar to be located 3” above bottom of 8” thick floor and centered in the 8” thick wall shell
Skimmers wrapped in rebar for support

GUNITE SPECS:
4,000 psi min design strength / minimum 6 bags of cement per yard
Minimum 14” wide X 12” tall bond beam
Walls & Floors: minimum 8” thickness
Any “rebound” will be discarded and not used in any way
All excess and overspray to be removed from job site

PLASTER / PEBBLE SPECS:
Pebble Sheen Black Onyx or Stone Scapes Black Mini or Similar dark pebble
Max water-to-cement ratio of 0.48
No calcium chloride added
Any plaster splatter on waterline tile to be cleaned with damp towels vs. sprayed water
Gunite shell to be pressure washed before plaster/pebble application if dirty
Gunite shell to be cured at least 29 days before plaster / pebble application

COPING & WATERLINE TILE:
Coping: Oklahoma flagstone or similar
Coping mortar color: TBD
Waterline Tile:
Master tile magazine Rock Stream (MAS RKR 610) or Desert Canyon (MAS DS 650)
Type S mortar bed
Cementitious waterproofing agent over mortar bed
Thinset rated for continuous submersion
Waterline Tile grout color: TBD
Accent Tile: TBD (if any)
Accent Tile Grout color: TBD
Trim Tile: TBD (if any)
Trim Tile Grout color: TBD
Weeping wall water feature mortar color: Tan
Flagstone coping and weeping wall to be sealed with:

PLUMBING SPECS:
Poured Concrete equipment pad:
#3 rebar 16” OC
4” thick with thickened edges
Equipment located and spaced to accommodate future repairs
Equipment located and spaced to accommodate possible chiller and acid tank
Wide sweep 90s used to the maximum extent practical
Pad sized and equipment placed to minimize the number of plumbing 90s
All manual valves to be Pentair or Jandy Neverlube
Pump, filter, & chiller connected with unions
All plumbing runs 18” deep with 2” of clean sand below and above pipes
All plumbing run side by side horizontally and not stacked in trenches
(2) skimmers
(1) main drain
(1) Dedicated suction line for manual vacuum
A&A leafVac canister on skimmers, main drain, and dedicated suction lines at pad
(6) wall returns
(1) fill line to be plumbed and tied into timer by owner
(2) 1” overflow lines
All plumbing Sch 40 PVC unless otherwise noted
No “hard 90s” on buried pipes
Skimmers, main drain & suction line to be each separately plumbed back to pump pad with 2” sch 40 and manual Jandy valves for individual control
Wall returns placed 18” from top, each separately plumbed back to pump pad with 1.5” Sch 40 and ball valves to set relative flow rates of each return
Weeping wall water feature will have a 3-way actuated valve to switch from returns to weeping wall feature and plumbed with 2” water returns each separately plumbed all the way to the pump pad with ball valves to set relative flow rate of each water source

ELECTRICAL SPECS:
All buried electrical in SCH 40 conduit with sweeps
Bonding: 8 AWG bare copper with direct burial & cement rated lugs, & PB 2008 water bonding lug on return line 1’ below water line
Control Panel fed by 20 AMP GFCI at sub panel
Eaton Type 2 SPD whole panel surge protector at the pad sub panel
An additional junction box fed by 120V to be run approx 70’ from equipment pad sub panel
Permanent light and switch installed at equipment pad

EQUIPMENT SCHEDULE:
Automation System
: Pentair IntelliCenter (model / kit # TBD)
Pool only (no spa) with the load center & SWCG transformer built it. Deciding between the 5 relay or 8 relay option. Depending on pricing, will probably get a kit that includes the IC60 SWG.
Filter System: Pentair (cartridge type) Clean & Clear 520 Plus (Model: 160332)
Pump: Pentair IntelliFlo VSF Variable Speed & Flow Pump (Model: 011056)
Sanitation System: Pentair IC60 Salt Cell Generator (Model 521105)
Chiller: Glacier GPC215 ?? (still debating chiller or not)
Lighting: (4) Pentair MicroBrite Color LED w. 100’ of chord (Model 620425)
Skimmers: Grey / Black body with a tan lid
Model: TBD - Pentair Skimmer Bermuda ABS for Concrete OR other similar
Still deciding between Venturi style or a traditional style skimmer
Main Drain: TBD – (2) round 36” apart or (1) channel style
Leaf Canister: A&A LeafVac debris removal canister (Model: 522538)
Returns: Directional (Model: TBD)
Valves:
(4) Jandy nerverlube 2-2.5” for skimmers, main drian, & vacuum line (Model: 4716)
(1) 3-way Jandy neverlube 2-2.5” with actuator to switch from returns to weeping wall main line (Model: 4716)
(6) ball valves in weeping wall manifold to set relative flow of each water source
Valve Actuators: Pentair or Jandy valve actuator to switch from returns to weeping wall main line:
Check Valve: Jandy 2-2.5” standard (Model: 7305) between pump and filter
Unions: (6) CMP Hi-Temp 2” MIP – 2” PVC (Amazon ASIN: B00AKMV4K)
Robot: Dolphin S200

Misc Contract Scope Items:
Equipment pad location approximately 75’ from center of pool
Pool pump will be aprox. 24” in elevation above top of pool water
Pool to be filled between 6 to 24 hours after completion of plaster / pebble
10% of contract price to be held back until completion and punch list complete
Excavated dirt can be placed on site ~150’ from dig
Electrical Sub Panel (12 CBs) already set and connected to 125 amp 240V feed at pad site
Overflow does NOT need to be tied into public sewer
Pool depth to be specified every 2 feet in drawing
City / County approval NOT needed but HOA approval is required

DECKING:
New Decking: BY OWNER
Specs: #3 Rebar on 16” centers.
Minimum 4” thick with thickened edge
Control joints max spacing lesser of 2X width or 12’
Control joint to be cut/place at least 25% depth of concrete
Sand / gravel back fill
Drainage: all flatwork slope between ¼” and ½” per foot away from pool. A round drain with associated smooth wall non corrugated drain pipe located in low point of 6” raised deck

QUESTIONS / CONCERNS:

- Should extra vertical rebar steel be placed in the deep end or extra on the shallow to deep transition on the floor?

- I read that the max water-to-cement ratio should be 0.48. Does this also apply to pebble too, or just plain plaster?

- Can umbrella sleeves be set directly into the coping / bond beam?

- Any guidance on deciding between 1 channel main drain vs 2 round main drains?

- I am considering up to 6 returns. Is 1.5” pipe large enough if they are each individually plumbed back to the pump pad or should I go with 2”?

- Any opinions on plumbing a dedicated suction for manual vacuum in addition to purchasing a robot for cleaning?

- Thoughts on A&A LeafVac debris removal canister located at the pad?

- Thoughts on flanged vs flush mount returns?

- Thoughts on option A vs. option B for the weeping wall plumbing?

- Thoughts on the Pentair IntelliFlo VSF vs. the newer IntelliFlo3 VSF?

- Would the flow rate of the IntelliFlo VSF (model 011056) be enough to operate the 27 linear feet of weeping wall with (6) 1.5” feeds. I am planning on actuated 3-way valve to switch from the (6) 1.5” main pool returns to the (6) 1.5” weeping wall feeds with each of the weeping wall feeds individually valved for relative flow control. If I need more pump, I am also considering the IntelliFloXF VSF (model 022056)

- With an electrical sub panel already set at pad site, is there any advantage in the integrated load center option in the Pentair IntelliCenter? How much extra does the integrated load center option cost?

- Any input on the 5 vs. 8 relay option on the IntelliCenter? I’m assuming the IntelliFlo pump, IntelliChlor & possible future IntelliPH are controlled through a communication cable and will not take up one of the 5 or 8 included relays. Is this correct thinking?

- The Pentair IntelliCenter comes in many combo kit options. Generally, are the Pentair combo kits (IntelliCenter + IntelliChlor) a good value or the same price if purchased separately?

- Should I install a well pit? No one in my area seems to have one. The soil here is a very expansive (water-tight) clay.

- I have read about placing gravel on the bottom before placing gunite but, as with the well pit, not many in my are seem to do so.

- If the (4) MicroBrites are to be controlled by the IntelliCenter does each light need to run back to the IntelliCenter or can each light run back to a junction box and 120V to 12V transformer which is ran back to the IntelliCenter at the pad?
 
Welcome to TFP.

Use all diverter valves and no ball valves. Ball valves will eventually stick and break and cannot be rebuilt.

You don’t need a well pit on a gunite pool. Well pits are used on liner pools and fiberglass pools where ground water can be more of a problem.

A gunite pool does not need PB 2008 water bonding lug on return line 1’ below water line. For Pool Water Bonding required by NEC Article 680.26C, concrete pools are considered conductive (refer to 680.26 (b)(1) due to the porosity of concrete and the bonding of rebar. No additional bonding is required. Vinyl liner and fiberglass composite shells are considered non-conductive and require a water bond.

Why? - Check Valve: Jandy 2-2.5” standard (Model: 7305) between pump and filter. Instead you want a 3 way diverter valve that lets you shut off water flow from filter when cleaning the pump basket and let’s you drain to waste.

Why an electrical sub panel that duplicates what the IntelliCenter Load Center does?

Do you want to control the MicroBrite lights individually or only as a group?
 
Squidflyer, by the looks of your detailed requirements you are a perfect candidate for a owner builder if you can devote the on scene time when required.
In regards to your questions and concerns, extra rebar will be required only if noted on the steel engineering plan dictates. These firms are the only ones qualified to make that decision.
Water to cement ratio will be determined by the plaster crew and I know of no means to check this on the job site.
Umbrella sleeves can be set into the bond beam/coping just be aware of the rebar location when setting.
 
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Welcome to TFP.

Use all diverter valves and no ball valves. Ball valves will eventually stick and break and cannot be rebuilt.

You don’t need a well pit on a gunite pool. Well pits are used on liner pools and fiberglass pools where ground water can be more of a problem.

A gunite pool does not need PB 2008 water bonding lug on return line 1’ below water line. For Pool Water Bonding required by NEC Article 680.26C, concrete pools are considered conductive (refer to 680.26 (b)(1) due to the porosity of concrete and the bonding of rebar. No additional bonding is required. Vinyl liner and fiberglass composite shells are considered non-conductive and require a water bond.

Why? - Check Valve: Jandy 2-2.5” standard (Model: 7305) between pump and filter. Instead you want a 3 way diverter valve that lets you shut off water flow from filter when cleaning the pump basket and let’s you drain to waste.

Why an electrical sub panel that duplicates what the IntelliCenter Load Center does?

Do you want to control the MicroBrite lights individually or only as a group?
Thanks for the insights.

I am planning on using Jandy style valves at any location I will be continually adjusting but am considering the ball valves at the locations that will only get one adjustment after construction (to set relative water flow) and them hopefully never moved again. Does this sound reasonable?

Not needing a well pit and water bonding on a gunite pool completely makes sense.

I assumed the check valve between the pump and filter would help the pump maintain prime when not running. Even though the check valve would be on the discharge side, it would still maintain a suction on the inlet water column.

The integrated IntelliCenter load center would be ideal but I already have an existing sub panel at the location of the future equipment pad. When we built our house we had the sub panel installed for just this reason and for future shop build. That's why I was wondering about the price difference between the intellicenter with vs without the integrated load center.

Never thought about operating the Microbrites individually. If so, I'm guessing that I will need to wire each light all the way to the intellicenter?

Thanks again!
 
I also noticed the coping as "Oklahoma Flagstone". That can be a very inconsistent material and I would go with travertine or another coping material. If you do a search on the forum you will see many threads of people complaining about it flaking off into their pool, or any metal in the stone oxidizing and looking rusty. Some people have been lucky and been able to swap out a few bad pieces, or deal with it by sealing the flagstone, but since you are building I would suggest a better quality material.
 
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I am planning on using Jandy style valves at any location I will be continually adjusting but am considering the ball valves at the locations that will only get one adjustment after construction (to set relative water flow) and them hopefully never moved again. Does this sound reasonable?

I think it is false economy. The added cost for using diverters is a rounding error in the amount you are spending on your pool. Sometime in the future you will change your pump or plumbing that will require some flow adjustments. When you go to tweak your flow and find the ball valve is frozen will be when you curse your choice.

I assumed the check valve between the pump and filter would help the pump maintain prime when not running. Even though the check valve would be on the discharge side, it would still maintain a suction on the inlet water column.

If you have no air leaks in your plumbing your filter will not drain down through your pump. It is like when you can hold water in a straw with your finger over the top.

Where will your equipment pad level be relative to the water level?

The integrated IntelliCenter load center would be ideal but I already have an existing sub panel at the location of the future equipment pad. When we built our house we had the sub panel installed for just this reason and for future shop build. That's why I was wondering about the price difference between the intellicenter with vs without the integrated load center.

You still planning on building the shop?

I would run one feeder from your subpanel to the IntelliCenter Load Center and put the pool breakers there. It simplifies the high voltage wiring and lets changes be made easier.

Never thought about operating the Microbrites individually. If so, I'm guessing that I will need to wire each light all the way to the intellicenter?

Each light or light group you want individually controlled needs to have a transformer. The transformers connect to relays in the IntelliCenter for control. The lights wire into the transformers.

The light transformers are individual boxes outside of the IntelliCenter.
 
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it sounds like you have a nice pool in mind. I am also north of Houston and just a little behind you in the build process (i.e. still refining our design). I look forward to following your build. I am curious about the depth profile.

Size: Free form ~43’ Long X ~21’ wide
Depth: 4’ shallow to 8’ deep with a sloping transition of 1’ depth per 3’ horizontal

Unless my math is off or I misread your specs, the depth would be at 8’ somewhere around 12-15’ from the shallow edge. If your shallow to deep transition is along the 43’ length, that would mean that nearly 2/3 of the pool is 8’ deep. That seems like a lot of deep water. Have missed something or is that your intent?
 
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I think it is false economy. The added cost for using diverters is a rounding error in the amount you are spending on your pool. Sometime int he future you will change your pump or plumbing thay twill require some flow adjustments. When you go to tweak your flow and find the ball valve frozen will be when you curse your choice.
You have convinced me. Changing specs to all Jandy style.
If you have no air leaks in your plumbing your filter will not drain down through your pump. It is like when you can hold water in a straw with your finger over the top.

Where will your equipment pad level be relative to the water level?
The equipment pad will be 18-24" above water level. I assumed the purpose of the check valve was to hold the vacuum as in your water in a straw analogy. Does the pump have an internal mechanism that does this to keep the water from draining down when not in use?
Each light or light group you want individually controlled needs to have a transformer. The transformers connect to relays in the IntelliCenter for control. The lights wire into the transformers.

The light transformers are individual boxes outside of the IntelliCenter.

Can I use any 120V to 12V transformer? I have read the MicroBrite manual but am still confused about how the individual colors and color shows would be controlled with this setup. Multicolor LEDs are typically controlled by a modulation of the hot or ground and not a simple on/off switch.
 
Unless my math is off or I misread your specs, the depth would be at 8’ somewhere around 12-15’ from the shallow edge. If your shallow to deep transition is along the 43’ length, that would mean that nearly 2/3 of the pool is 8’ deep. That seems like a lot of deep water. Have missed something or is that your intent?
I can see where what I wrote could be confusing. The shallow to deep transition will not start immediately but toward the middle of the pool to divide it into roughly 15 feet of shallow end, 12 feet of shallow to deep transition, and 16' of deep end.
 

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Each light or light group you want individually controlled needs to have a transformer. The transformers connect to relays in the IntelliCenter for control. The lights wire into the transformers.

The light transformers are individual boxes outside of the IntelliCenter.
Something like this. This set up is for 11 led lights for the pool and 1 for the spa.
 

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I can see where what I wrote could be confusing. The shallow to deep transition will not start immediately but toward the middle of the pool to divide it into roughly 15 feet of shallow end, 12 feet of shallow to deep transition, and 16' of deep end.
That makes more sense. I should have asked where the transition started.
 
The equipment pad will be 18-24" above water level. I assumed the purpose of the check valve was to hold the vacuum as in your water in a straw analogy. Does the pump have an internal mechanism that does this to keep the water from draining down when not in use?

The pool plumbing is a closed loop with both the skimmer and returns in the water. If the plumbing has no air leaks then there is no way for air to get into the plumbing for water to be pushed out.

The pump has no internal mechanism.

Having such a CV bandaids over air leaks in the plumbing that should be found and fixed. Although some folks are not successful in finding the source of their plumbing air leaks, especially in older pools.

Can I use any 120V to 12V transformer?

No, you must use a pool rated transformer for safety where the high voltage and low voltage is double isolated.
I have read the MicroBrite manual but am still confused about how the individual colors and color shows would be controlled with this setup. Multicolor LEDs are typically controlled by a modulation of the hot or ground and not a simple on/off switch.
You will find LED pool light technology very rudimentary. They mostly use simple on/off pulses.
 
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What is the general consensus on venturi skimmers vs. traditional skimmers? I am planning on 2.

Regular skimmers do everything you need.

Venturi skimmers are a gimmick which let some manufacturers differentiate themselves and sell something people will think is new and improved.

Regular skimmers properly installed into the prevailing winds and returns at the opposite side of the pool are all you need.
 
Any advice on specific skimmers and main drains (round) and where to source them? We are looking for something with a dark grey / charcoal color as we are using a dark pebble (black onyx or similar). Also, need a main drain with a bottom outlet. I am planning on just stubbing 2" pipes through the gunite floor and having the drains installed at plaster time.
 
CMP has channel drains and round drains. I would put in a proper drain bucket in the floor and not just stub pipes and put a cover on top of it.

Consider putting a hydrostatic relief valve int he main drain.

Pool cleaners will not get hung up on flat drain covers.

 
CMP has channel drains and round drains. I would put in a proper drain bucket in the floor and not just stub pipes and put a cover on top of it.

Consider putting a hydrostatic relief valve int he main drain.

Pool cleaners will not get hung up on flat drain covers.

What is the main advantage of installing the drain bucket in the floor vs. stubbing out the pipes? Are you saying that with the drain bucket installed, the drain covers will sit more flush with the floor?
 
What is the main advantage of installing the drain bucket in the floor vs. stubbing out the pipes?

You have a good anchor to screw the cover into.

When the pool is replastered a few times over its life the main drain is not damaged.

It provides a more effective flow path for the main drain water.

Are you saying that with the drain bucket installed, the drain covers will sit more flush with the floor?

Yes, if you choose a main drain with a flat cover.
 

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