It started out as a liner replacement and replacing the coping!

This spring I started to get grass going, that has come in well. I had to have the sprinkler completely redone (they were not well laid out to start with and I think all but a 2 or 3 heads were run over, smashed or MIA). Then I spread and graded 10 yard of topsoil. Then I got the pump and filter plumbing squared away and got to cleaning the pool of all the stuff I could not get out of it before I covered it. It cleaned up pretty quickly but it was taking a lot of chlorine to barely keep the algae from forming. Anything below 12 ppm of chlorine and it algae would appear. pH, cya, alkalinity were are right where they should be. I checked the phosphate level and did some reading up on it too. I thought as long as chlorine level was being maintained that phosphate level should not matter, i think I was at ~250 (tough to say since the share of blue on the cards varies so much depending on what is backing it, used the Taylor K-1106 kit). Finally gave in and used Orenda PR-10000-QT. Phosphate Remover. Within 2 days water was crystal clear and is requiring half as much chlorine or less to keep the chlorine level at a 7 and no algae forming. At the same time been working on the flower beds. Only thing left at this point is order a new diving board, get a safety cover, install a fence on the pool patio perimeter and build some type of shed over the pool equipment.

PXL_20220513_000036286.PANO.jpgPXL_20220514_192325508.jpgPXL_20220702_000852255.PANO.jpg
 
Nice pool and all with one recommendation, I'd ditch that chlorinator and go for a SWCG (salt water cell) because that pool in wide open sun will need some decent chlorine and those pucks will send the CYA over the top too soon.
 
OH that came out GREAT!!! LOVE it!!! Your hard work sure paid off!!!

Very interesting about the phosphate levels and chlorine demand. This has been looked at by many others. Have you tested their levels after the treatment?
 
At the same time been working on the flower beds. Only thing left at this point is order a new diving board, get a safety cover, install a fence on the pool patio perimeter and build some type of shed over the pool equipment.
Very nice set-up from the lawn, to the equipment pad, to the water, and everything in between. :goodjob:
 
I don't use the chlorinator unless the cya is low and then I use pucks to bring it up. For most of the season I use liquid chlorine and a stenner pump. I have a 20 gallon barrel that fill with LC and usually can go 5 - 6 weeks before having to refill it. Humping LC out to the pool isn't that bad. Would like to find someone that would let me buy it in a 30 gal or 55 gal drums or even 5 gal containers. Gallons just have been the cheapest, but wasteful in cardboard and jugs ($5/gal isn't wonderful either). I'm not sold on a converting to saltwater yet, but every time I have to get LC or move it I think about it.
 
I haven't tested the phosphate level afterwards, Just the chlorine, ph and alkalinity. If I remember I'll will try to this weekend to see for comparison.
I tested the phosphates and now it indicates higher! Maxed out the 0 - 1000 test. Looks to be about 3000 - 3500 on the 0 - 6000 test. Did each one twice. Before the phosphate remover I think it was in the 350 range. Since the phosphate remover was used it's been clear, using less chlorine and zero algae. Vacuumed the pool once before company coming over to get a little dirt off the bottom. Haven't even used the aquabot. Cya is 50, ph 7.8 chlorine 7.4 and temp is like 82. I don't know what to make of the phosphate test results. Since it's clear and been next to maintenance I'm leaving it alone.
 
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