Turning off the Circulation System Remotely

Endless

Member
May 11, 2022
14
Colorado
When we leave for several days, I've always turned off the pool pump and heater to my indoor Endless Pool, because if there were to be a leak in the circulation system, the damage could be substantial. Of course, the downside has been some episodes of bad-water quality upon returning.

I would like to be able to leave the circulation system on when gone, providing I am able to turn off the circulation system remotely if I were to detect leaks (using wifi leak detectors and cameras).

Ideally, the simplest way to do this would be a smart-plug to insert in the pump`s power-cord receptacle -- when power to the pump is disconnected, both the pump and the electric heater turn off.

However, as far as I know there are no smart plugs rated for 20 amps; the pump is on a 20-amp circuit. The pump is rated for about 13 amps, but it draws more when starting up; so, a smart plug isn’t a viable solution.

My pump and heater are controlled by an Intermatic T101P3 time switch. Although, I could replace the Intermatic with a wifi time switch, I’m hesitant to do so, because of potential problems with the control software (and possibly with the hardware). All I need to do is turn the system off; I do not need the other features of a digital time switch.

I recently discovered the availability of a wifi 30-amp circuit breaker (Smart Circuit Breaker by Martin Jerry, 30-Amp Circuit Breaker, Single Pole: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement). If I were to wire this breaker between the time switch and the pump plug receptacle, then I could turn off power to pump and heater remotely. There is an existing GFCI breaker on the pump circuit (the wiring to that breaker runs out the side of the Intermatic time switch – through the conduit on the left side).

So, I am wondering if there is any electrical issue I am missing that would make wiring the 30-amp breaker between the timer/switch and pump on the 20-amp circuit a bad idea? For instance, would it interfere with the GFCI? Advice will be appreciated.
 

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Thanks, I did read your earlier post on upgrading to Suraielec, but, unless I'm mistaken, a mechanical time switch seems more reliable overall (no software to cause problems)? But maybe I'm being too paranoid?

Well you are just building up points of failure the way you are thinking of doing it.

When the pool does not power up and you have two or three devices in the electrical circuit how are you going to figure out the problem? You better be proficient with a multimeter.
 
Is your circuit wiring 10 gauge? If it’s 12 gauge, a 30 amp breaker wouldn’t protect your wiring. Your equipment specs should tell you the branch circuit amps it requires.
 
Is your circuit wiring 10 gauge? If it’s 12 gauge, a 30 amp breaker wouldn’t protect your wiring. Your equipment specs should tell you the branch circuit amps it requires.
The way he describes it he is not going to use that 30 amp breaker as a breaker, just as a WiFi disconnect. The original breaker will still be in the circuit to protect the wires.
 
What is the load capacity of the breaker in there at the moment? 20 amps? If so, you absolutely shouldn’t upgrade to a higher load capacity unless you know for certain that the wire is 10-gauge or thicker end-to-end.
 
The way he describes it he is not going to use that 30 amp breaker as a breaker, just as a WiFi disconnect.
Ah, I was confused there as well, but I read it again and now I understand. Should work but as you said, just introducing more points of failure.
 
Increasing points of failure? Are you referring just to the possibility of the wifi circuit breaker failing, as that would be the only change in the circuit, or is something else more likely to fail due to adding the breaker?

The wiring from the time switch to the pump-plug outlet is three wires -- positive, neutral and ground; so if I wire the breaker between the time switch and the outlet, do I need to wire an extra ground wire from the breaker to ground, or just run the three wires from the time switch to the breaker and then three wires from the breaker to the outlet?
 

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Increasing points of failure? Are you referring just to the possibility of the wifi circuit breaker failing, as that would be the only change in the circuit, or is something else more likely to fail due to adding the breaker?

The more devices you have the more likely something will fail.

The wiring from the time switch to the pump-plug outlet is three wires -- positive, neutral and ground; so if I wire the breaker between the time switch and the outlet, do I need to wire an extra ground wire from the breaker to ground, or just run the three wires from the time switch to the breaker and then three wires from the breaker to the outlet?

You are going to need 120V hot wire, neutral, and ground to power the WiFi side of the breaker. The breaker itself just needs to be on the hot wire of the pump to interrupt the circuit.
 
Thanks for the feedback. The smart breaker has connections for incoming line, neutral, and load, but no specific ground (see attached). Since , it would be stand alone, I'm wondering how to ground it?
 

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I misunderstood the earlier point about points of failure -- yes, I agree with more devices on the circuit, if the powering up fails, it will be more of a puzzle to figure out what's broke, and I'm not that proficient with a multimeter!
 
Thanks for the feedback. The smart breaker has connections for incoming line, neutral, and load, but no specific ground (see attached). Since , it would be stand alone, I'm wondering how to ground it?

Where are you going to place that breaker?

It is designed to be installed in a CB panel.

It is not designed to be installed on the wall like a timer or a wall switch.
 
Make sure you check the specs on the timer. If it's the wifi version, it's only rated for 1 hp inductive load @ 120 volts.

Check out this post:

 
Good to know: my pump motor is 3/4 hp AO Smith Centurion 120 V. Electric heater 240 V, 5500 watts. Would the wifi time switch work with the heater load, given the motor load would not cause a problem?
 
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Good to know: my pump motor is 3/4 hp AO Smith Centurion 120 V. Electric heater 240 V, 5500 watts. Would the wifi time switch work with the heater load, given the motor load would not cause a problem?
@ajw22 is the heater/electrical guru...
 

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