Very high CC, cloudy blue water.

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AK- said:
Aeration will increase you pH. Hard to say how fast as that depends on you TA and how much air you effectively added to the water.

I aerated (very efficiently) my pool for 2 hours on the weekend and my pH increased from 7.2 to 7.5... of course my pH buffering is way different that yours.
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They said the TA was at 200, which is pretty high!
 
You posted you ran the pool all year last year with a zero CYA level and you closed it with zero CYA level? I'm thinking you have a lot of bacteria growing in the pool from being under sanitized all summer into closing and ammonia. You're going to have to stock up on liquid chlorine and when you think you have enough, double it. When you add it to the pool to 10ppm, recheck it within a half hour and if its depleted at all under 10ppm, bring it up again! You're going to have to babysit it and hit it hard with the liquid chlorine. What does that mean? Doesn't mean just blindly dumping but consistently bringing it up to shock level as soon as it drops below. The pool will seem like it has an insatiable appetite for liquid chlorine. You just have to keep adding it until "it gets full" and registers as FC. We can't possibly tell you how much chlorine you're going to go through or how long it will take. Stick around and we'll get you through it as long as you do your part in educating yourself on properly maintaining the chemistry so you'll never have to go through this again.
 
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Casey said:
You posted you ran the pool all year last year with a zero CYA level and you closed it with zero CYA level? I'm thinking you have a lot of bacteria growing in the pool from being under sanitized all summer into closing and ammonia. You're going to have to stock up on liquid chlorine and when you think you have enough, double it. When you add it to the pool to 10ppm, recheck it within a half hour and if its depleted at all under 10ppm, bring it up again! You're going to have to babysit it and hit it hard with the liquid chlorine. What does that mean? Doesn't mean just blindly dumping but consistently bringing it up to shock level as soon as it drops below. The pool will seem like it has an insatiable appetite for liquid chlorine. You just have to keep adding it until "it gets full" and registers as FC. We can't possibly tell you how much chlorine you're going to go through or how long it will take. Stick around and we'll get you through it as long as you do your part in educating yourself on properly maintaining the chemistry so you'll never have to go through this again.
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Thank you for the info, I really appreciate it. So, I took a FC reading this morning and it was at or above 6ppm, which is actually higher than I got last night, which was 4.4 (perhaps it hadn't all mixed in the area where I tested, I'm not sure). Then when trying to do the CC test, the water (which normally turns pink after adding 5 drops of 0003 solution) actually turned to more of a light orange color. As I kept adding in in drops to turn the solution colorless, it just started turning from orange to pink, so I don't know what that means as I've never seen it before.
 
OK, so just to make sure I'm not completely doing something wrong, since this is my first season using this type of FC/CC test, let me outline the testing process that I'm using to be sure I'm not messing it up.
  1. Fill large vial to 25ml line and add in 2 dippers of R-0870 with the blue measuring stick.
  2. After swirling to mix in the R-0870 for about 30 seconds to 1 minute, (I look to see if all of the granules dissolved) I start to add in drops of the R-0871.
  3. I count each drop until the liquid goes from pink to completely clear, then multiply that result by 0.2, since I was using the 25ml sample.
  4. After the liquid is clear, I then add in 5 drops of the R-0003 solution, which normally turns it pink again.
  5. Finally, I add in more drops of the R-0871, swirling between each drop, until the liquid goes colorless. I multiply that by 0.2 to get the CC reading.
If any of that seems off, please let me know. Steps 1-3 have been pretty consistent, it was just this morning that in step 4, where the water turned orange after adding in the R-0003, then proceeded to turn pink after adding in the drops of R-0871 in step 5.
 
Your description of your test process is correct as I read it. No need to use the 25 ml sample, go with the 10 ml.
 
The 10ml sample will save you a lot of reagents. It in not like your pool would go boom if you err the FC for zero point something.
 
The process is correct, just want to double check - you’re doing the CC part of the test immediately after, correct? Not waiting a few minutes?

And, you’re taking the cc reading as soon as the water goes from pink to clear again? You’re not sitting the vial down for a minute, coming back and seeing it’s pink again, and adding more drops to clear it (again)?
 
AK- said:
The 10ml sample will save you a lot of reagents. It in not like your pool would go boom if you err the FC for zero point something.
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Thanks for the tip, I wasn't sure which to use, so I kind of just assumed it would be more accurate with the 25ml, but didn't know exactly how accurate I needed to be.
 

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Let’s do a test! Ammonia isn’t really possible if you read FC this morning.
Can you test your tap water?

Then, Can you take a cup of water from your tap, add a and add a tiny bit of bleach to it, mix it up and test it? Let’s see what kind of reading you get.
 
Strawberryshortcake said:
The process is correct, just want to double check - you’re doing the CC part of the test immediately after, correct? Not waiting a few minutes?

And, you’re taking the cc reading as soon as the water goes from pink to clear again? You’re not sitting the vial down for a minute, coming back and seeing it’s pink again, and adding more drops to clear it (again)?
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OK, so I'm definitely doing the CC test right after the FC test, no waiting in between. About the only area that I may consider to be a little vague is when the water appears to be almost clear, but then a second or two later, I can still see that it's a little pink. My understanding of the instructions was that there should be no pink at all left in the vial, so after swirling each drop, I would wait about 1-2 seconds to make sure it was completely clear after being fully mixed in.
 
IT_GUY_23 said:
I would wait about 1-2 seconds to make sure it was completely clear after being fully mixed in.
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If the drop hits the sample while swirling or using Speedstir, and goes clear, test is over. Do not wait to see if it turns back pink, it will.
 
Another idea:
Can you repeat the orange test result?
Are you using the same container to gather your water each time from the pool?
Are you using the same vial to test each time?

Get a different container to gather the water.
Clean the vial with bleach and hot water really well.
 
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mknauss said:
If the drop hits the sample while swirling or using Speedstir, and goes clear, test is over. Do not wait to see if it turns back pink, it will.
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Alright, so if that is the case, and it need only be clear for a very brief moment, then I will redo that test as well to get a more accurate reading. I mean, it was still at least 15+ drops before it started turned from a dark pink to a light pink, so it will likely still be in the 4-5ppm range, if I recall correctly.
 
Strawberryshortcake said:
Another idea:
Can you repeat the orange test result?
Are you using the same container to gather your water each time from the pool?
Are you using the same vial to test each time?

Get a different container to gather the water.
Clean the vial with bleach and hot water really well.
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Yes, I was using the same test vial that came with the taylor kit for all of these tests. I do rinse it out with water from the pool after each test, but I haven't cleaned it with hot water and bleach before. I will also do the same test in my other vial that I have on hand, just to confirm.
 
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You can get some FC reading with ammonia.

The best way to confirm ammonia is the pH and TA will drop when adding liquid chlorine and oxidizing ammonia.

Oxidizing ammonia creates acid by releasing hydrogen.

More than 95% of ammonia is in the form of the ammonium ion (NH4+)

2NH4+ + 3OCl- --> N2 + 3H2O + 2H+ +3Cl-

When adding 12.5% sodium hypochlorite (liquid chlorine) to a pool to oxidize ammonia, every gallon of liquid chlorine will create the equivalent of 15 ounces of 31.45% hydrochloric acid.

10 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine added to 25,000 gallons of pool water with ammonia will lower the TA by about 23 ppm or the equivalent of adding 150 ounces of full strength 31.45% muriatic acid.

Every 8.53 gallons of 12.5% liquid chlorine is equivalent to about 1 gallon of 31.45% acid.
 
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IT_GUY_23 said:
Yes, I was using the same test vial that came with the taylor kit for all of these tests. I do rinse it out with water from the pool after each test, but I haven't cleaned it with hot water and bleach before. I will also do the same test in my other vial that I have on hand, just to confirm.
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This might be a silly question, but what do you do with the tested sample water?
 

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