Ok so about to lose the remaining hair I have. Had a pool company, for a month, wanted help with a stain, that I couldn’t figure out. They made pool cloudy, randomly turned a shade of green but was clear. Then pool company tried to fix said problems and made it worse. I was able to remove stain etc got pool back crystal clear was good to go. Next day pool company came by to check pool and decided to add phosphate remover and something else, pool never cleared after running pump 24/7 for a week. Ended up firing said pool company because it seemed like they were just dumping random stuff to “try” and clear it. So pool was clear with a stain, then went green shade with a stain, then I got it clear and stain removed, pool went cloudy again, now pool is back greenish and stain resurfaced. All with in two weeks. Some chemicals are way off and others are with in range. Any ideas or what direction I should start?!? any and all help is appreciated!
Please HELP!
- Thread starter Lostsheep2shepherd
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,967
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP.
How did your FC get to 20.5? Are you trying the SLAM Process?
Know that the pH test is invalid if the FC is over 10 so I hope you did not adjust the pH down.
Have you done a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test?
What chemicals have you been putting in the pool?
How did your FC get to 20.5? Are you trying the SLAM Process?
Know that the pH test is invalid if the FC is over 10 so I hope you did not adjust the pH down.
Have you done a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test?
What chemicals have you been putting in the pool?
I was headed down the SLAM route bc the pool was still cloudy although everything else was good except the Calcium was low. Only chemicals I have put into pool is liquid chlorine and muriatic acid. Yes I adjusted ph down. I have not done an overnight chlorine loss test.
I did the FAS test again this morning and the chlorine didn’t change. So that leads me to believe there isn’t algae, I’m think the pool is greenish because it is over chlorinated. Water is still cloudy but not where I can’t see the bottom. Cya is 50 this am and TA is 110. I am going to turn the jets towards the top and allow the pool to aerate. I have cut the chlorinator off and I am going to add some vitamin c (ascorbic acid) to neutralize some of the chlorine and hopefully it will get rid of said staining and get water back to where it can be balanced. Thoughts? Thank you for your help!
MITBeta
Gold Supporter
- May 28, 2020
- 1,240
- Pool Size
- 13000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Iron in the water can turn it green at high chlorine levels. Are you filter cartridges turning brown?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,090
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Since you passed the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, it is fair to say algae is not the issue. It appears metals is the culprit for your colored water. Are you on a well? If so, and if Vitamin C tablets remove staining around the pool, you have iron. With iron in the water, place some polyfill in the skimmer right away to try and manually filter it out. The more you get now the better. The elevated chlorine level can actually help in that regards to keep the iron out of solution.
Welp, maybe not alive algae anyway. I will for once break away from the others that it's not metals IMO because they tint the clear water usually. You will be emerald green, but clear green and not cloudy green. And they won't change from green to cloudy blue.
Fill out your signature with your info and details. For example, the filter which will be working OT to clear the cloud and needs cleaning 25% PSI increases. Click the Hamburger menu in the upper left corner. Click the bald guy icon (he already lost his last hair) then click signature and go buck wild with details and model #s.
I’m pretty sure that’s what happened last time as well. I actually just replaced the filters because after we hired the pool company I began to get low flow at low rpm’s. I removed the filters and cleaned them but they looked rough so I ordered new ones and replaced them last week.
I did that last night but it apparently didn’t save. When I say cloudy I can see the bottom but it’s not crystal clear. Here are the details:
9k gal
Pentair intellichlor ic15
Pentair cnc pls 240 cartridge filter
Pentair superflo vst 1.5
My psi increases with the increase in speed from the pump. Currently it’s at 15psi but I am running pump at 3400 rpm to cycle water faster along with having jets pointed to surface to aerate. Psi on filter normally hangs around 8-10 psi.
I have attached a updated picture that I just took.
It’s a SWG, my apologies in terminology mix up. It’s a pentair intellichlor ic15
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,090
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Since we kicked the word "iron" around a bit, it's only fair to also ask if you ever used any copper products in the pool? You, or anyone else, might have added copper-based algaecides or supplemental products?
MITBeta
Gold Supporter
- May 28, 2020
- 1,240
- Pool Size
- 13000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Just to be clear: did you have this turned off overnight for the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test?
I definitely think it’s iron in the water, but I am on city water. However, I am wondering if the cleaning they did in the water system over the last couple of weeks could have produced a higher iron content. I guess I could always test the water coming out of the faucet. Also I just noticed that the planters my wife has at the end of the pool flanking either side is directly over a cut in the concrete and the run off coming from the bottom of the planter after watering is going directly in the pool.
Yes I did. I shut it off yesterday afternoon after doing the first fas test and seeing a slam level
I have not, however, the pool company added phosphate remover, clarify, and those are the only two things I know of because I found them in my trash can outside. I have a culator bag in the skimmer but it’s no smoking gun. I requested at the initial consultation of the pool company coming on board to help that they please list any all chemicals added to the pool so that I could keep record of when how and why. That never happened. Also I remember them saying they added metal out.
Yes apparently they got moved and with me focusing on everything else I didn’t even look at it. And to be clear polyfil you just mean like old pillow stuffing?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,781
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
What is the cost of your fill water? At that pool volume, a very healthy water exchange to fresh may be advisable.
To be honest I can’t remember, but I can get a credit once a year for filling the pool. I did exchange some of it yesterday afternoon but may fire the hose back up today. It’s getting lighter in color. I haven’t tested anything in the last couple of hours but there is a visible difference.
Update:
After leaving the pump running at 3200 rpm’s didn’t see much change. I was able to find some ascorbic acid, so I removed the filters from the tank, added the ascorbic acid with pump off, and then brushed and brushed. Stain is now pretty much gone at this point but water still a shade of green. I cut the pump back on at 3200 rpm’s let it run for 20-30 mins and then tested the water at 1:45. My results were as follows:
FC 14.5
CC 0
TA 90
CYA 60
CH 130
PH 7.2
Question now is where do I go from here? Water is still a little cloudy/dull.
After leaving the pump running at 3200 rpm’s didn’t see much change. I was able to find some ascorbic acid, so I removed the filters from the tank, added the ascorbic acid with pump off, and then brushed and brushed. Stain is now pretty much gone at this point but water still a shade of green. I cut the pump back on at 3200 rpm’s let it run for 20-30 mins and then tested the water at 1:45. My results were as follows:
FC 14.5
CC 0
TA 90
CYA 60
CH 130
PH 7.2
Question now is where do I go from here? Water is still a little cloudy/dull.