I came home from an extended vacation to find my keypad with a blank display and filthy pool due to pump not running. I am tying to troubleshoot the device to find out what part is not working as opposed to buying a new pump. I reset all the breakers. I apologize in advance for my lack of correct vocabulary. I am not an electrician but Im trying to learn. I used a multimeter set to 200V to test the electrical line coming into the pump. I am getting 120 when I touch the red wire and (green) ground. I am also getting 120 when I touch the black wire and (green) ground. I tried to test by touching the black and red and got the OL display. Im assuming that the black to red is not a legitimate test. I then saw a part under the keypad that feeds power to the keypad. It has a part number of 176L1169. I tried to touch the multimeter to various pins on it and never got any readings. So is that the part thats bad? Are my tests not correct? Are there other tests I should be doing? Thanks in advance.
IntelliFlo Pump Keypad Assembly - No Display - How to multimeter troubleshoot?
- Thread starter IMV8N
- Start date
IMV,
The only test that is valid is when you test between L1 and L2, (Between Red and Black..) You should get 240 volts between the two. Since your meter was set to 200 volts max that is why it errored out and probably means you have 240 volts, but I'd double check to make sure.
If you test between L1 to and ground and L2 to ground, when the wires are connected to the pump, you will get 120 on both pins because of the error caused by the pumps internal wiring, even if L1 or L2 is missing.
Loss of L1 or L2 can cause the display to be blank.
Before your try to troubleshoot the key pad, I suggest that you double check to insure that you have 240 between L1 and L2.
Thanks,
Jim R.
The only test that is valid is when you test between L1 and L2, (Between Red and Black..) You should get 240 volts between the two. Since your meter was set to 200 volts max that is why it errored out and probably means you have 240 volts, but I'd double check to make sure.
If you test between L1 to and ground and L2 to ground, when the wires are connected to the pump, you will get 120 on both pins because of the error caused by the pumps internal wiring, even if L1 or L2 is missing.
Loss of L1 or L2 can cause the display to be blank.
Before your try to troubleshoot the key pad, I suggest that you double check to insure that you have 240 between L1 and L2.
Thanks,
Jim R.
While you can open the control by getting past the security-type screws that hold it together, Pentair does not offer or supply the internal parts and components for their controllers (just like all other pump manufacturers). So far, none of the pool-equipment circuit board repair companies I have spoken with will even attempt a repair on these items.
The first place to look, as Jimrahbe, pointed out is whether or not you have a full 240v at the pump. An often overlooked place to start is at your breaker. Sometimes one side will trip. It won't look tripped, but I always start my troubleshooting by turning the breaker off, and feeling both sides lock off and then back on and feel both sides lock on. The best way to do that is with one finger on each of the breaker handles (old electrician's trick I was taught).
The first place to look, as Jimrahbe, pointed out is whether or not you have a full 240v at the pump. An often overlooked place to start is at your breaker. Sometimes one side will trip. It won't look tripped, but I always start my troubleshooting by turning the breaker off, and feeling both sides lock off and then back on and feel both sides lock on. The best way to do that is with one finger on each of the breaker handles (old electrician's trick I was taught).
So I do have 240 on the multimeter between L1 and L2. So does that mean its new pump time?
I do have 240 a the pump. So I guess its time to buy a new control unit? Were you saying that I can open the control as in bypassing the unit to turn on the pump? If so how?
Attachments
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,815
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Or replace the control cover assembly and/or drive. Both of which are not inexpensive but may be half the cost of a new pump. If the parts are available.
See the 2021 Pentair Pump Parts Catalog
I,
If you have 240 volts at the pump input, then the problem is in the control head.
You cannot bypass the control head and have the pump work.
I have heard that sometimes just the LCD gets corrosion under it and causes the LCD to not work. Seems there is a thread about it here at TFP.
Since your only other option is to replace the control head, I'd open it up and see what you find.
You can't make it worse than it already is and might be able to get it working.
Thanks,
Jim R.
If you have 240 volts at the pump input, then the problem is in the control head.
You cannot bypass the control head and have the pump work.
I have heard that sometimes just the LCD gets corrosion under it and causes the LCD to not work. Seems there is a thread about it here at TFP.
Since your only other option is to replace the control head, I'd open it up and see what you find.
You can't make it worse than it already is and might be able to get it working.
Thanks,
Jim R.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,815
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Look through this thread where someone fixed his display....
My pump died recently and I guess I don't know which part has actually failed. The keypad doesn't light up. I have seen keypads online for $200 and drives for $500. Obviously I'd like to pay the cheaper amount but was wondering if there was something I could do to test which part has failed. I am getting 240 to the pump. I dont have a spare that I could swap out and test. Suggestions?
Have an update and an additional question. So I leaned a few things. Apparently it's not good practice to have a wing nut connection anywhere in between the breaker to the pump. I pulled all the old wire out and noticed that the wire feeding the pump was 12 guage from the breaker then 10 guage from the wing nut to pump. Not sure if that was any part of my issue just making mention of it. So I pulled it all out and ran 10 guage in one complete run from breaker through conduit to pump. I bought a new 20 amp dual pole breaker that is specific for the pump. So anyhow after the new wire pull the pump is working. I'm not sure why or how since I've always been able to get 240 with the old wiring. Anyhow with the new wire it's like a new pump. Working great. My question is about the breaker. I connected the two hot wires from the pump into the each side of the new dual pole breaker. I couldn't get 240 with this configuration. However when running one hot to one side of the dual pole breaker and running the other hot to a complete different breaker I can now get 240 and pump works. My question is did I buy a bad breaker? Is that a thing? Am I correct to assume that one dual pole 20 amp breaker should be able to have both of my pump hot lines connected to it?
Sounds like you purchased a twin breaker that only connects to one leg of power and could feed two circuits and not a dual-pole GFCI breaker that is needed. It should look like two full-size breakers side-by-side and take up two spaces in the breaker panel. GFCI is required by code and will cost significantly more, in the area of $100.00.
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