New Pool Construction - Leander, TX

Hmm ok! So just leave it ?

Covering the walls with a tarp can prevent mud slides messing up the spacing between the walls and the rebar that will need to be repaired. The water will pool in the hole and you will need to wait until it dries or pump it out.
 
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Covering the walls with a tarp can prevent mud slides messing up the spacing between the walls and the rebar that will need to be repaired. The water will pool in the hole and you will need to wait until it dries or pump it out.
Rebar going in tomorrow and rain forecast for next few days!
 
Rebar going in tomorrow and rain forecast for next few days!

A good builder will have a gunite crew swing by and flash the walls and floor with a thin layer of concrete to stabilize the walls and floor. That will save him the cleanup of mud to get back the 3" rebar spacing in the floor and walls.
 
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Is there any precautions needs to be taken for loose soil ?
 

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S,

That's kind of difficult to answer. In general I would say there's nothing especially prohibitive about loose soil or any other kind of soil if the design acknowledges this and accounts for this. The main thing you should look for is a design that's stamped by a registered professional engineer in your state. If his design report says that the design requires a certain level of compaction for surrounding soil and/or soil below then you need to be sure the PB is demonstrating this is accomplished.

Chris
 

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S,

That's kind of difficult to answer. In general I would say there's nothing especially prohibitive about loose soil or any other kind of soil if the design acknowledges this and accounts for this. The main thing you should look for is a design that's stamped by a registered professional engineer in your state. If his design report says that the design requires a certain level of compaction for surrounding soil and/or soil below then you need to be sure the PB is demonstrating this is accomplished.

Chris
Thanks for your reply. I’m build my own pool after getting much help guidance and help from this group. I’m planning to get a licensed geotechnical engineer to further evaluate this. Appreciate your further suggestions/feedback!
 
Start the plastic 2’ on the horizontal before it starts going down the wall and secure it with bricks or rocks to prevent it from moving with the wind. 3/4 of the wall is all that needs to be covered from top to bottom. Use a painter’s plastic that’s thin and is sold in roles from any home improvement store.
 

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S,

That's a great start. I would ask your engineer if he sees the need for a soil boring before you get very far. When I did my house soil borings It was pretty cheap to get one for the pool so I did. On my industrial projects best practice was to obtain soil borings very early in the design process, usually before 2-4% of the engineering is completed if they had any foundation work or significant excavation.

Chris
 
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Are you asking in regards to the soil engineering? If so, yes it’s a good idea to look into. I’m in SoCal and here cities may require a soils engineering report prior to excavation due to location of the pool for many reasons like next to a hillside or amount of cut and fill that the property was built on. Also, the Steel Engineering firm will require a more detailed cage than the average #3 bar at 12” centers. So these two entities set the requirements so there’s little guess work for the builder unless an unforeseen matter is exposed during excavation, hope this answers your question, Ray.
 
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Initially, I asked for channel drain for spa, both overflow and jet pumps. Since they did not have enough space under the rebar they had to cut the rebar. Moreover the channel drain was connected only with single suction. Attached picture of it.
I asked them replace channel drain with regular drain, one with dual suction for both overflow and jet pumps and also fix the rebar.

The rebar screw lifted the spa rebar by adding more cement blocks underneath it so that rebar does not touch the pipes and added additional rebar near spa main drains where they initially cut down.

My question is

Is there going to be any problem raising spa with additional cement blocks ?
  1. Is there going to be any problem since they cut down rebar which got fixed later by adding more rebar to it ?
  2. Also, Suction pipes are close to the rebar. Will there be any problem once the gunite is finished to add main drain covers ?
Thanks for suggestions!
 

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You need to figure out how the height of the rebar on the spa floor will set the spa floor height after 3 or 4" or gunite on top of it. Then what the height of the spa bench will be after gunite. And where the spa jets will fall above the spa bench.

Raising the spa floor without raising the bench height and spa jet height can be a problem. Some folks have had the spa jets end up being too low.
 
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#1: by raising the spa steel cage with Dobies your concern is with the height of the cage to the top of the wall forms, you need 3” from top of steel to top of form.
Cutting the rebar and repairing it is OK as long as the repair has a 24” overlap.
The main drain covers are set into rings and the rings are set into the plaster, the drain pipe will be cut lower than the ring to create a bowel and this is your concern because of its proximity to the rebar.
 
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#1: by raising the spa steel cage with Dobies your concern is with the height of the cage to the top of the wall forms, you need 3” from top of steel to top of form.
Cutting the rebar and repairing it is OK as long as the repair has a 24” overlap.
The main drain covers are set into rings and the rings are set into the plaster, the drain pipe will be cut lower than the ring to create a bowel and this is your concern because of its proximity to the rebar.
Yes. That’s right. The proximity to the rebar. Additional questions, I having 7*7 spa with 8 jets with separate jet pump. What should be the spacing between jets like 2’ etc and what should be height of these jets from the rebar ?
 
Spacing of jets horizontal or vertically is a judgement call, sit two adults side by side and take a measurement from middle of each adults back for the horizontal spacing, vertical measurement has to take into consideration height of the seats that are most common shot at 21” or 24” and then what location you want the jet’s to be hitting on one’s back.
Space from rebar is typically not taken into consideration.
 

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