Figuring out the pool

Jump to latest Follow Reply
jben04 said:
Just curious,, how long should the SLAM normally go on for....or is it "until its done " lol
Click to expand...
When you pass the three criteria. Can takes days to weeks. Depends on diligence to testing, adding chlorine, brushing, etc.

jben04 said:
Having a little issue uploading photos,, there just not uploading.
Click to expand...
The Host Server is having issues. The Forum Admin is working on it.
 
jben04 said:
Check the Fc,this morning at it was at the 16..hooray,,lol...
(Last nigh it was 14, and added the necessary measured amount to bring it up to 16)
Click to expand...
Congrats!

Did you actually measure FC AFTER you added chlorine? It is possible you raised it higher and actually had a higher loss.
 
So at 4pm i did a measurement and the Fc was 13,, so i added the 47oz of chlorine.
4,50pm,, took another reading,,, the Fc was 18.5,, ive been trying to be very accurate with how much DPD powder i use ( 2 small ),,and the drops i let them form themselves and drop.
Just looking at the poolmath app.... is says the chlorine is 6%..
looking at the gallon bottles i have it reads " sodium hypochlorite 10%... "
Thats the active ingredient .... could that be a issue?
 
Last edited:
jben04 said:
So at 4pm i did a measurement and the Fc was 13,, so i added the 47oz of chlorine.
4,50pm,, took another reading,,, the Fc was 18.5,, ive been trying to be very accurate with how much DPD powder i use ( 2 small ),,and the drops i let them form themselves and drop.
Just looking at the poolmath app.... is says the chlorine is 6%..
looking at the gallon bottles i have it reads " sodium hypochlorite 10%... "
Thats the active ingredient right?
Click to expand...
Yep, you have been using 10% sodium hypochlorite, and entering 6% in the app. You can change the 6% in the app to 10%, or whatever % you are using!

Yes Bleach === sodium hypochlorite.
 
Last edited:
So last nights reading(21h45) was Fc 18.5.. ( due to me not using the correct chlorine % on the app.
This morning (09h00) it was 17...
Loving how clear the pool is looking though, but the misses isnt liking the temp ,, 72F this morning... think the highest it has got to over the summer is 80 maybe,.
 

Attachments

  • 20210913_091534-min.jpg
    20210913_091534-min.jpg
    581.8 KB · Views: 8
  • 20210913_092302-min.jpg
    20210913_092302-min.jpg
    622.5 KB · Views: 8
Last edited:

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Last night my Fc was 17,, this am 16.5..... not too sure why. At 6pm it was 13 , added the necessary chlorine to bring it up to 16, re tested at 7pm and it was at 17.
When counting the drops, do you count the last drop that completely changes the water to clear?
 

Attachments

  • 20210914_094034-min.jpg
    20210914_094034-min.jpg
    554.3 KB · Views: 2
jben04 said:
Last night my Fc was 17,, this am 16.5..... not too sure why. At 6pm it was 13 , added the necessary chlorine to bring it up to 16, re tested at 7pm and it was at 17.
When counting the drops, do you count the last drop that completely changes the water to clear?
Click to expand...
WOO HOO! you passed OCLT! Is the pool clear? What was your CC result?

Yes, count the last drop.

Don't understand the statement..."not too sure why."
 
re-reading it , it does sound a little weird lol,,sorry
Yes its SO clear ! Cant believe the pool's looking so good,, compared to last weeks picture.
how i need to gradually let down the Fc and take care of the Ph?
 

Attachments

  • 20210914_094034-min.jpg
    20210914_094034-min.jpg
    554.3 KB · Views: 5
Last edited:
Yep. pH test will be valid when FC gets below 10.

Test and post your results (full set of tests) to pool math, and we'll help you with next steps.
 
Numbers look good, TA is a bit high. Best approach is to use Muriatic Acid to reduce TA to a target of 60-80. Recommended Levels

When you add MA it will reduce TA AND pH. You should target a pH of 7.0 with your addition of MA. Go to poolmath, pH and enter the target pH and current TA to get recommendation. Then aerate to raise pH without raising TA. I got a sump pump and built this on top: 1631807012470.png
When pH gets back to 7.4, add MA and reduce pH to 7.0 again. Repeat until you have reduced TA to the target level. The reason for using pH of 7.0 as target is that CO2 outgasses the fastest between 7.0 and 7.4 (allowing the aeration to raise pH the fastest. Just repeat this process until your TA is between 60-80.

The point of reducing TA is to avoid constant pH rise. You could leave TA at 110 and see how fast your pH rises.

Did you test CYA?
 
Yes i did the CYA was just over 30.
The return valve i have is the intex one that has " Hydro Aeration Technology ".
Guess that just means it lets air in to make it bubble more lol
 
Last edited:
jben04 said:
Yes i did the CYA was just over 30
Click to expand...
GREAT! Log it in pool math as 40. The scale is logarithmic so you should fill to one line, look, fill to next line, call it when the dot is obscured. There are no values between the 10s.

Keep your FC at 7 until you get a feel for your pool. Don't let it get below 5. <--these are for CYA of 40. This will keep you far away from Algae. If you have high bather load, lots of sun etc, you can even test/add during the day! Always follow: FC/CYA Levels
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply