Ok so I have a new motor. It matches the specs of the old motor. But the part that leads to the wet end looks different. See pictures. There's no way this is right, is there?
There's no way this is going to work, right? (Pump motor replacement)
- Thread starter MirGSS
- Start date
- May 3, 2007
- 17,086
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
As long as the holes match up, you should be fine. The original motor is a 56J and that is what the new motor is so it should be fine. Have you tried mounting it?
Not yet. I just saw the gap between the motor and the mounting plate and was like ummm.... I'll give it a shot tonight or tomorrow. I just wanted to like, check? Before I did something else stupid and ruined everything 
Okay, so I FINALLY got everything apart and back together and spent like 3 hours researching the wiring. Hooked everything back up and turned it on. It emitted a very loud buzzing/humming sound for a few seconds and then blew the breaker.
I'm working with 230V, have the pump connected to 2 breakers on the panel (I didn't mess with that at all), a 230V socket and plug, and the motor is set to 230V. I followed the instructions for a 230V system with the only exception being I don't have a red wire at all, only a white one (which I read can be substituted for red in this circumstance).
When I put everything back together, I made sure all the "top"s were aligned, loved at several YouTube videos to make sure I was doing everything correctly, and had a new gasket/seal assembly kit.
What did I do wrong?
I'm working with 230V, have the pump connected to 2 breakers on the panel (I didn't mess with that at all), a 230V socket and plug, and the motor is set to 230V. I followed the instructions for a 230V system with the only exception being I don't have a red wire at all, only a white one (which I read can be substituted for red in this circumstance).
When I put everything back together, I made sure all the "top"s were aligned, loved at several YouTube videos to make sure I was doing everything correctly, and had a new gasket/seal assembly kit.
What did I do wrong?
Attachments
The centrifugal switch contacts look damaged.
Did you actually measure the incoming voltage?
Did you actually measure the incoming voltage?
Do you have a picture of everything in the wiring compartment now?
Did the capacitor explode?
Did the capacitor explode?
The faces of the contacts should be flush and in contact when the motor is off.
The switch contacts should open when the motor gets near full speed.
If the switch contacts don't open, the capacitor will explode.
It looks like your bottom contact is bent up.
The switch contacts should open when the motor gets near full speed.
If the switch contacts don't open, the capacitor will explode.
It looks like your bottom contact is bent up.
You need a new capacitor, you need to figure out what is wrong with the centrifugal switch and you need to verify the incoming voltage.
Can I just....buy a new switch? That seems easier than trying to troubleshoot this one.
You can get a new switch.
It looks like maybe the bottom metal part of the switch with the springs and weights is not right causing the button to be pushed up too far?
Did you measure the supply voltage?
It looks like maybe the bottom metal part of the switch with the springs and weights is not right causing the button to be pushed up too far?
Did you measure the supply voltage?
The button was like....jammed up inside and cocked just a bit so it could never go down.
If it is in good condition and it has the same specifications.
Are the microfarads (uF or MFD) the same?
Do you see how the two yellow wires and the red wire are tucked between the metal posts?
That's important when you put everything back because the centrifugal switch weights swing out and they can catch on any wire that is on the outside of the metal posts near the centrifugal switch.
That's important when you put everything back because the centrifugal switch weights swing out and they can catch on any wire that is on the outside of the metal posts near the centrifugal switch.
Yeah it seems ok and I'm getting ohm readings from it. I'm going to check the specs of the busted one real quick and then see if I can figure out how to put this thing back together. Thank you so much for all your help and patience! I may need more of it
