Polaris Hose Curling

Suggest you lay it out in the sun. It is unusual for that for that to curl at that section (below the back up valve) but maybe that section is just old. If you lay it out then snap a picture the hose so we can see how you have it set up.

Fellow Houstonian!

I'm thinking that your Polaris Sport may need some attention. Take it out and spin each wheel. If they all feel like they are connected to gears inside of the Polaris, then keep chasing hose and other issues. However, if some wheels feel "loose", then your Polaris is likely biased towards one end of the pool instead of cleaning in a balanced fashion due to internal issues within the Polaris. Left or right dominant drive wheels will indeed cause hose "curling" and poor cleaning!

So, how do the wheels all feel when you spin them?

Regards,

Jim

As I said earlier, it is unusual for that section of hose to curl. Funny enough I was just researching the 3900 as I noticed that black area on the bottom in your other post. So now you have a worn hole in it which is most likely due to the tires are worn and it is rubbing on your floor or where it slopes upwards to the wall. That can cause the unit to be not ballasted properly which could have led to the hosing curling. Just 1 idea.

I was planning to comment that the hose above the unit needs to be a specific length from the top of the unit to the first swivel. It is normally your pool depth. So for example if you have 6 ft depth (72 inches) then the hose length to the first swivel would be hose (around 33 inches) + backup valve (8 inches) + hose ( 31 inches). Then the remaining hose (to the wall connection) would be 2 equal lengths with a swivel in the middle. Your overall hose length, including the backup valve, swivels, filter is supposed be from the wall connection to your farthest point in the pool + 6 inches. I can provide more info on this if you decide to stay with a Polaris pressure side cleaner.

You can search on YouTube as there are many videos guiding you to have the proper length to avoid tangling.
This is probably more than you need to know now that you may consider a robot.

I think if it were me, I would go with an inexpensive robot such as the S200 and see how it goes. Just turn off the programing on the booster pump and keep it all intact until you are pleased with the performance with the robot. No need to change your plumbing at this point.
Good Luck and let us know what you do.

Andy49 said:

So, now I need to decide, try to get it fixed

Click to expand...

Andy,

Regarding the wheels all having resistance, it does seem that the hole in the bottom of the chassis may be your only major issue.

How about trying duct tape! I'm not serious for a long term solution, but I am very serious for a short term solution. This might keep your pool clean and give you some time to make a wise, long-term decision.

Polaris parts are $$$, but when you buy the whole unit, especially with rebates, promotional, etc., the cost is not so bad. So, you could check on what the part cost is for the bottom chassis, or possibly keep your current Polaris and get a new one too. For 15 years I ran a Polaris 280 and had two - on for active duty, and one for parts/stand-by. You may need a new chassis bottom now, but there are bearings, hoses, backup valve, and so much more that can wear out on these cleaners.

I've had pressure side Polaris cleaners (360, 280, Quattro Pro) and also one of the more expensive robots, a Polaris iQ+ and there is no best solution! The pressure side cleaners just do their thing day in day out, and the robots do a much better job, but aren't nearly so robust as the pressure pump cleaners. I only put my robot in the pool when I'm using it and when it has done its job, I put take in out of the pool and store it away. If money is no object --> go robot! And if money is very important, go Polaris 280, or in your case, just repair your current Polaris 3900.

Jim