Blue Water
- Thread starter gabygarcia0118
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 63,018
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
You need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
You need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
- May 11, 2021
- 973
- Pool Size
- 7000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-30
Hello Gaby, Welcome to TFP.
You need a reliable test kit. Pool Store tests as known for their lack of accuracy. If you drained and refilled your pool it is unlikely you really have 105 ppm of CYA (unless you added stabilizer). You can take a look in this post to have an idea.
Can you post a pic of your pool/water?
You need a reliable test kit. Pool Store tests as known for their lack of accuracy. If you drained and refilled your pool it is unlikely you really have 105 ppm of CYA (unless you added stabilizer). You can take a look in this post to have an idea.
Can you post a pic of your pool/water?
