about waterproofing the concrete shell

Plaster is waterproof.

Edit: after scanning that linked thread, let me rephrase. Pool plaster kept underwater is waterproof. Plaster exposed to sun and air and going wet then dry, etc, is on its own...

Plaster is waterproof as long as no cracks develop in the plaster.

Tile is waterproof but hairline cracks often develop in the grout lines that allow water to get behind the tiles and into the gunite.

Joints around lights, returns and skimmers need to be sealed properly to be waterproof.

Water leaks usually come from where plaster interfaces with other surfaces.

If you were going to put a layer of Basecrete on it should have been on the tile area before tiling.

The shrinkage cracks in the gunite will be filled by plaster.

The hole should be filled with hydraulic cement.

The grout areas with shrinkage cracks should be redone.

You have any pics of the shell rebar before gunite?

Looks like you have enough rebar. Were the pool plans stamped by an engineer?

Allen's got you covered regarding the gunite. That tile job looks funky to me: mis-aligned tiles, grout lines of different widths, and that one corner is pretty bad, IMO. Instead of cutting the tiles to meet together better in that corner, he just filled it all in with grout, making that grout joint way too wide, which is why it cracked. Personally, I would reject that tile job, at least some of it, and have it redone correctly.

Yah, that's pretty poor workmanship. I don't know much about tile setting (other than what it's supposed to look like when done), so I can't speak to why the grout is cracking. Doesn't really matter, it's unacceptable. The mis-aligns are inexcusable. As are the different thicknesses of, well, everything.

If that work had been passed off as "done" on a kitchen or bath countertop, it would have been rejected. I don't see why a pool should be of any less quality. It's pretty much the exact same skill. The PB (or project manager) should have rejected that sub's work out of hand, before you ever saw it. The fact that he didn't speaks to the PB's idea of quality as well as the tile setter's.

Sorry to rub it in. Just one guys opinion, which you may or may not find useful. It was meant to inspire you to demand better of the PB...

I rejected work on my entire pool a few years back, and made them buy me a brand new, entire refinish. So I don't just talk the talk... The reason that contractors, more and more, are providing this level of quality is because consumers allow it...

You're in CA, so if you decide to take action, and the PB pushes back, I can help you with the "how to" of getting it redone.

someone2021 said:

Dirk, thank you for the comments. I am the owner builder and directly hire the sub contractor to install the tiles. please give me the instruction about "how to" of getting it redone.

Click to expand...

Ha, well I mostly know how to go after a PB! But that's you. Still, the same principles (and laws) apply.

The first step is to see if you can resolve this issue amicably. You would call him to the job site for a meeting and then express your dissatisfaction with the quality of the work, and then express your expectations: namely you want it fixed, or redone entirely if need be (assuming you do want it fixed).

You speak to the work itself, the result, not to his skill or process. For example "These tiles should align better than this. Almost perfectly so as not to be noticeable," as opposed to "You should have aligned the tiles better than this. You put them in crooked." It's a not so subtle distinction, and can go a long way to keeping things civil. How you speak to him is as important as what you are saying. You are displeased with the tile, not him as a person.

His reaction will determine the next step(s). He will likely take it personally, but if you stick to the script that is on him, not you. Keep your emotions out of it. Just present the facts. Show him the defects. Describe what you think a quality job would look like, and why the work is not up to that level, or even industry standards. (There is no argument to justify those uneven grout lines and misaligned tiles.) You might even ask him if he would accept such work by another if it was done on his kitchen counter top. If all goes well, he'll agree and redo the job. If not, end the meeting and report back for "phase 2."

If your gut is telling you now that this is more likely to go south than not, you might consider having a third person there. Preferably not a spouse or relative. This person might end up being a witness. But will also serve as a buffer, perhaps keeping things civil just by his/her presence. If things do go south, after the sub has left make some notes: what was said, who said what, what was agreed to, or disputed.

Fingers crossed. People can surprise you if you give them the opportunity to do the right thing...

I would add that you should waterproof the weir wall on both sides.

You can use Aquron waterproofing for the shell and grout, great company, just give them a call and they can tell you prices and quantities you will need, it penetrates about 5 inches into the shell..

https://aquron.com/2019/06/21/aquron-mgs-mortar-grout-solution/ Only use this if you are using portland cement and sand grout, if using a modified grout do not use...