New Owner, Old VERY Neglected Pool
- Thread starter TurbineTester
- Start date
Oh, you've definitely turned a corner! So much change just in today's pictures. Great news!!
That's surely going to be much more blue tomorrow. And the next day... and... Then cloudy blue. That's when your filter is going to be able to do some heavy duty lifting for you, but it will for sure become crystal clear as long as you keep up SLAM.
Really, you're doing a great job with this. I believe swimming is in your near future!
That's surely going to be much more blue tomorrow. And the next day... and... Then cloudy blue. That's when your filter is going to be able to do some heavy duty lifting for you, but it will for sure become crystal clear as long as you keep up SLAM.
Really, you're doing a great job with this. I believe swimming is in your near future!
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Yeah.. if I knew it was that clogged it would have been first on my list to flush out... I was starting to suspect it when the particulates seemed to be hanging around too much!
I managed to check it again this morning and resist the urge to add chlorine! It only lost 4ppm over night also. The filter pressure hadn't moved over 10 hours so I added some DE and and since the CYA was still reading low I suspended some granular CYA in socks in front of return jets. Found a metal roofing screw in the shallow end and fished it out. Very little in the summer basket.
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My comment about putting a quarter in the shallow end and reading the date was encouragement not a prophesy. You will get there, just not tomorrow.
Just a side note. Since the pool still has days to go and the concrete can use a pressure washer, I would do it now so whatever makes it into the pool won't mess up a just finished water. At least 2 feet from the edge where you know for sure that's getting in the water as much as you think it won't, it will.
Filter pressure up around 18 so I backwashed and added DE again. Afternoon test results:
CYA-50
FC -13
CC-0
I took the water sample 16" below the surface in the deep end, about 35' from the dangling CYA socks, and I think that may have made the CYA test skew high. Of course I didn't think about this until after I added bleach up to the 50 CYA SLAM level of 20ppm. When I measured CYA this morning it was only 20 and those socks had not dissolved fully.
Bad news: I sent a message to my pool guy yesterday telling him I thought the water was clean enough to fix the sagging liner. He sent me a message back today saying he can't put the liner back in the track because it's too old and brittle. I wish he had told me this 6 weeks ago ?. He says if I don't mess with it and just try to keep it from getting worse by putting liner lock near the edges of the sags it might last 2-5 more years. All the YouTube videos make it look easy to pull the sags up by helping g the liner get more iable with boiling/hot water, so I'm thinking I might try a very small spot as a test. I also found a few dark spots in a location in the shallow end that won't scrub off with a brush. I'm not sure what it could be, but I hope it's not a hole. I need to order some diving board bolts from somewhere. Can I get the right size stainless steel bolts/washers/lock-washers/nuts from Lowe's?
CYA-50
FC -13
CC-0
I took the water sample 16" below the surface in the deep end, about 35' from the dangling CYA socks, and I think that may have made the CYA test skew high. Of course I didn't think about this until after I added bleach up to the 50 CYA SLAM level of 20ppm. When I measured CYA this morning it was only 20 and those socks had not dissolved fully.
Bad news: I sent a message to my pool guy yesterday telling him I thought the water was clean enough to fix the sagging liner. He sent me a message back today saying he can't put the liner back in the track because it's too old and brittle. I wish he had told me this 6 weeks ago ?. He says if I don't mess with it and just try to keep it from getting worse by putting liner lock near the edges of the sags it might last 2-5 more years. All the YouTube videos make it look easy to pull the sags up by helping g the liner get more iable with boiling/hot water, so I'm thinking I might try a very small spot as a test. I also found a few dark spots in a location in the shallow end that won't scrub off with a brush. I'm not sure what it could be, but I hope it's not a hole. I need to order some diving board bolts from somewhere. Can I get the right size stainless steel bolts/washers/lock-washers/nuts from Lowe's?
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Diving boards are a big freaking liability issue so don't be surprised if you don't see many comments other than you need to go back to the manufacurer and get their advice. Stainless steel comes in grades and the hardness and breaking strength varies by grade. I'm not going to begin to tell you what bolts to use.
lookin good!!! Can see most of shallow end! If theres a light niche, clean in there also or algae will keep coming back
Ask your pool guy or call a pool company. My pool company sells diving board kits with all the necessary hardware for $52.00.
I can appreciate that. It took quite a bit of hammering to remove one of the corroded bolts from the diving board yesterday, but the other was not to bad and in tact enough for me to get a diameter and minimum length. I can take that and typical grade/property class information from diving board hardware kits and get what I need.
Thanks! It's been a bit of a long haul but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now.
I see a few on Amazon for around the same place. I'll probably end up getting a kit from Amazon or a reputable online pool supply company.
Checked the pool yesterday afternoon and brought the kids with me to swim while I scrubbed the walls and coping.
Test
CYA-20
FC-13
CC-0
Test
CYA-20
FC-13
CC-0
This morning it seems the CYA I added in the socks settled in. Didn't need to backwash filter as it was only at 16 psi. Added DE to filter, emptied skimmer and swept loose leaves back from the edge.
CYA-40
FC-13
CC-.5
I added 1 g of bleach. Forgot to take pictures. Should I even bother testing the combined chlorine at this stage? Also at some point in the near future (I hope) I'm going to need to add in the neighborhood of around 500# of pool salt. Where is the best place to get pool salt?
40-lb Pool Salt https://www.lowes.com/pd/40-lb-Pool-Salt/1000194979
CYA-40
FC-13
CC-.5
I added 1 g of bleach. Forgot to take pictures. Should I even bother testing the combined chlorine at this stage? Also at some point in the near future (I hope) I'm going to need to add in the neighborhood of around 500# of pool salt. Where is the best place to get pool salt?
40-lb Pool Salt https://www.lowes.com/pd/40-lb-Pool-Salt/1000194979
- May 3, 2014
- 59,322
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I use plain water softener salt. There is nothing special about pool salt.
Do not use Clorox brand. It is known to leave iron stains.
Do not use Clorox brand. It is known to leave iron stains.
Cool thanks for the heads up on that. At what point should I consider adding the salt? When the water is clear and I pass the OCLT, or at some point before that?
- May 3, 2014
- 59,322
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Once you are ready to use your SWCG, put the salt in. Let it mix in for a good 24 hours. Use a brush to mix it off the bottom. Or better yet add it with a bunch of kids in the pool. They will mix it in.
That salt should be fine. Our plain salt here in the west is in blue bags. Just be sure there are no iron inhibitors.
That salt should be fine. Our plain salt here in the west is in blue bags. Just be sure there are no iron inhibitors.
I could be ready to use it anytime I put in the salt, assuming the SWCG still works. I'm pretty sure the sensor works because it detects when the LC raises the salt level, but I don't know about the plates. I should probably do what someone suggested and plan to take them apart for an inspection and muriatic acid solution wash. I'm just not sure if it's a useful, neutral or a negative factor in dealing with the green cloudiness at this stage. Does the salt help combat green or cloudy at this stage? Would I have to add less chlorine in liquid form? Any factors that would suggest I should connect the SWCG back to the co troller and add salt?