Needing advice
- Thread starter Jubenez
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
When you do the CYA test, try this next time.
Once you have your solution ready, back to the sun, etc. Fill the vial to a line, say 80, lower the vial to your waist level and glance for the dot, you see it, add solution to the 70 line, glance, see it, repeat until you no longer see it with a glance. Then use the CYA value one step above the line you read. So if you stopped at 50, use 60 ppm CYA.
The vial is in logarithmic scale. So it is not viable to interpolate between the lines. Just use the whole numbers, such as 50, 40, 30, ....
Once you have your solution ready, back to the sun, etc. Fill the vial to a line, say 80, lower the vial to your waist level and glance for the dot, you see it, add solution to the 70 line, glance, see it, repeat until you no longer see it with a glance. Then use the CYA value one step above the line you read. So if you stopped at 50, use 60 ppm CYA.
The vial is in logarithmic scale. So it is not viable to interpolate between the lines. Just use the whole numbers, such as 50, 40, 30, ....
I did that method. I think it is 70 or 80. My eyesight is not that good, I'll have my husband try but he isn't home in daylight hours.
At 70-80 would you dump or SLAM?
At 70-80 would you dump or SLAM?
You can continue to SLAM without dumping you will just need to make your SLAM target 31ppm for your free chlorine. Harder to hold it there at a higher level
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,486
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Don't agonize if it is 70 or 80. Round up the CYA test and call it 80. The test is only accurate to +/- 10 ppm anyway.
Long term you want to get your water down to CYA 30 to be more manageable. If fill water is not an issue then doing a water exchange now will lower your CYA and dump alot of the algae out. The SLAM Process should then go faster and require less chlorine.
You need to drain about 50%-60% of your water. You really don't want to drain a pool with an old liner. @mknauss can tell you how to do a water exchange.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Let's not talk drain yet when you added CYA recently due to it testing 0. I suspect your testing protocol for the CYA is an issue. You are staring at the dot. Don't do that. You will see it forever if you stare at it.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
How much CYA powder did you add? Need to check PoolMath to see what it should have raised your CYA by.
I added about 6 lb stabilizer.
We did use a few tablets before realizing my mistake but only about 6 total maybe?
We did use a few tablets before realizing my mistake but only about 6 total maybe?
I added about 6 lb stabilizer.
We did use a few tablets before realizing my mistake but only about 6 total maybe?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
So you have added 35 ppm CYA, give or take. Your first test of the CYA, when you said 0, was it cloudy?
No not really. I had it tested at Leslies then myself for comparison.
I'm using liquid chlorine for rural king could that possibly have an effect?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,391
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Liquid chlorine has no CYA.
So you might have had 20 ppm CYA to start. So now you have ~50. Use that for SLAM level FC. And test the CYA tomorrow using the process I described above.
So you might have had 20 ppm CYA to start. So now you have ~50. Use that for SLAM level FC. And test the CYA tomorrow using the process I described above.
So are you thinking I'm reading the CYA test incorrectly? I performed it 2 or 3 times today (with the same sample).
Would adding hth super shock (56% calcium hypochlorite) cause any issues?
Stop grasping for additional things to throw in the pool and just stick with liquid chlorine. Calcium hypochlorite has no benefits over liquid chlorine and has many drawbacks. Don't add more variables to complicate your situation. Keep it simple.
Okay you are right... it's just that I've added probably 50 gallon of chlorine to a pool that is still green. ? I will resist the urge!
You are in good hands here, these experts know what they are doing and really want to help. Take a deep breath (maybe a day off even, if it is bringing you to tears). Then take stock of your situation and everything you have learned and get back into it. If you are unsure, ask BEFORE you do.
I just want to clarify that you're testing your FC with how much pool water- 5cc? or 10cc?
If it is 5cc, each drop of 0871 = 1ppm
if it is 10cc, each drop of 0871 = 0.5 (which just means count all the drops then divide by 2)
Maddie
If it is 5cc, each drop of 0871 = 1ppm
if it is 10cc, each drop of 0871 = 0.5 (which just means count all the drops then divide by 2)
Maddie
Thank you for the reassurance. I just had high hopes for this weekend
I'm not giving up!I'm using 10 ml water and 2 level scoops of the powder. Now I understand that a drop is equal to .5 ppm but initially i had it wrong (bad advice from local pool store).I just want to clarify that you're testing your FC with how much pool water- 5cc? or 10cc?
If it is 5cc, each drop of 0871 = 1ppm
if it is 10cc, each drop of 0871 = 0.5 (which just means count all the drops then divide by 2)
Maddie
Is it okay to test at 5 ml sometimes to save on drops? Maybe not right now bit after i get everything cleared up?
Thanks!
You can use 5mL for a quick check and during SLAM to save on re-agents but if you need to know a more accurate level then the 10mL or 25 mL samples are better choices. I use 10ml for routine testing and 5mL for SLAMing