Plunge Pool (Cocktail Pool) advise

Jun 2, 2018
15
dc
I have been reviewing this forum for awhile, but first time posting. Hoping you guys can help with a few things.

For a number of reasons, I am going with a small plunge pool (or cocktail pool). Primary reason is space, second reason I am not a hot tub fan. So, I contacted a local concrete company and had them modify a precast storage/septic tank for me to accommodate pool plumping (skimmer, 2 returns, and a floor drain) and bonding wire. The tank is about 8 feet long, 5 feet wide, and 5 feet deep. It is already installed and about 2 feet is underground and about 3 feet above grade. I added concrete block steps at one end of the interior. My plan is to finish installing the plumbing, then waterproof, and then install tile.

Xypex:
Prior to tiling, I plan to apply a coating of Xypex Concentrate on the interior. My understanding is the tile should be applied within 48 hours of the xypex Concentrate application. As you can see from the attached photo's, the pre-cast company left the holes in the tank larger than needed, so I also purchased a bag of xypex add-mix (C-500) and plan to add to bags of cement that I will purchase at Home Depot.
Q: What type of thin-set to use?
Q: What is the ratio for the add-mix in this small, hand batching scenario?

Tile:
I have 2x2 and 3x3 porcelain tile (I live in DC, so have freeze cycles to consider). I plan to tile the interior with all tile. Edges will be with Schluter jolly white PVC trim. The pool will be 3x3 straight up and down, the steps 2x2 at a diagonal to try and distinguish the steps from the rest of pool. I will use Laticrete Spectraloc Pro Premium epoxy grout (Raven color). The waterfall wall will have 12x24 linen white tile (Laticrete Spectraloc Pro Premium epoxy grout- bright white). The cap of the wall will be 12x24 2" thermal cut bluestone.
Q: Should I use PVC trim on the steps as well?
Q: Should I use something other than Slate for the cap?

Set-up:
  • Suction: 1 skimmer and 1 floor drain. I have two holes at the bottom of the pool, one will be used as a main drain, the other will just be used to house the Hydro-static Relief Valve. I also have PVC pipes under the pool that will be connected to the pump, so that if water collects under the pool I have the ability to use my pump to remove it.
  • Returns: 1 return at the steps, 1 return opposite side about 1.5 feet from the bottom, waterfall
  • Equipment will be housed under deck. there is entry door next to stairs and from above via a trap door with hinges.
I have attached a equipment layout, let me know if I am missing anything.
Q: How to by-pass the heater? I purchased 3 union/ball valves , but now wondering if I should use a diverter valve instead?
Q: What is the best way to connect the under the pool pipe, diverter or ball valve?
Q: What all needs to be bonded?

Pool Equipment:
  • Hayward S180T1580S ProSeries 18-Inch 1 HP Sand Filter System
  • Hayward WG1051AVPAK2 White 1-1/2-Inch Dual Suction Outlet for Concrete Pools
  • HAYWARD POOL PRODUCTS SP1070SFVA Skim-Master Skimmer Skt with Float Valve for Pools, 1.5-Inch
  • Hayward CSPAXI11 11 Kilowatt Electric Spa Heater
  • Hayward SP1056 Hydrostatic Relief Valve
  • Hayward SP1055 Relief Valve Suction Outlet Collector Tube
  • Hayward CL100 Automatic Chlorine Feeder
  • Hayward Sheer 500 Waterfall WFS524R6
  • Pentair 263037 3-Way PVC 1-1/2 inch (2 inch slip outside) Pool And Spa Diverter Valve
  • Hayward SP1022S Receptacles Vacuum Fittings for Concrete Pool
  • Flo-Controls 1720C15 True Union Swing Check Valve, 1.5in., Clear
  • Hayward QTA1015CSEG 1-1/2-Inch Gray QTA Series True Union PVC Compact Ball Valves
Looking forward to your thoughts. Thanks!

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+1 on loose the ball valves, and install Jandy valves.

A heater bypass line is easily done using a 3 way Jandy valve on the heater input that T's into the heater output. You put a check valve between the T and the heater on the output side to stop backflow into the heater. Connect the bypass between the CV and the chlorinator on your diagram.

Your floor drains needs to be VGB compliant. Read Swimming pool main drains can be dangerous. Main drain entrapment avoidance. That includes:
DUAL MAIN DRAINS: Constructed of two main drain pots, connected to each other by piping and a Tee fitting. The idea is that the two drains are far enough apart that one person could not block both drains at the same time, and if one drain is blocked, suction quickly shifts to the other drain.

I would put both returns on the opposite side from the skimmer. The return next to the skimmer will create a short circuit and block the water flow from the other side.
 
Thanks for the quick response! I realize my drawing said ball valve, but I plan on using Pentair 3 way diverter valve in addition to union valves. I also updated the plan to show the heater by-pass using a 3 way diverter valve. Does this look right?

For the return - I cannot add a new one, but I could remove the one by the skimmer (or use the valve to turn it off). I will also have a waterfall return.

99780
 
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I would not use brass valves in a chlorine environment.

Jandy Neverlubs are best. Two way. Second is what you are showing in your drawing.

You have an issue with your main drain. Is this pool permitted? Did the building department sign off on this design?
 
Only valves I know of are two way Jandy if you want the best. The Hayward union valves shown can be rebuilt too.
 

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Yes, permits have been issued. No inspections yet, but Inspectors have been on the property for other things (this is part of a much larger project).

The pre-cast company installed bonding wire on the re-bar and the wire is about 4 feet out of the concrete. The rest of bonding will take place once the equipment has been installed (skimmer, heater, chlorinator, pump). Do I need to bond the filter?

Did I get the heater by-pass right?
 
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How will your main drain be VGB compliant?
 
Yes, permits have been issued. No inspections yet, but Inspectors have been on the property for other things (this is part of a much larger project).

The pre-cast company installed bonding wire on the re-bar and the wire is about 4 feet out of the concrete. The rest of bonding will take place once the equipment has been installed (skimmer, heater, chlorinator, pump). Do I need to bond the filter?

Did I get the heater by-pass right?

Did the building official accept a “pre fab” bond, all he can attest to is the exposed connection..
in the event of an incident he/jurisdiction faces a huge liability.
 
Also hoping someone will chime in on the Xypex question:

Q: What type of thin-set to use?
Q: What is the ratio for the add-mix in this small, hand batching scenario?

Use any modified thinset rated for submerged use. I'm a fan of Laticrete 254, but there are plenty of other suitable options.

I've not used xypex, but I would assume the manufacturer would have some guidance for how much to use for various applications. The ratio should be the same regardless of batch size.
 

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