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Thanks for all the positive comments. They should wrap up the stone walls tomorrow and I'll post some pics. Electrical went in today, very clean install. Took 4 guys most of the day. Let's see if they passed the TFP Pentair Guru's test (you know who you are):
1) Intelliflo on a separate GFCI circuit: half credit. Separate circuit, but no GFCI. He said it's not needed and wanted $150 to put one in. I'll do this myself.
2) IC60 transformer runs through the filter/pump relay: full credit. He told me this was the case, but I will open the panel to confirm.
3) Pad light over equipment: no credit yet. He owes me this and says he will come back and install it as he didn't have one in the truck.
A couple other observations:
The ET8 transformer power is shared with the pool lights breaker. I have 1 spare breaker spot, so I could move this onto a dedicated breaker?
He removed the 2 pool light transformers (Pentair/Intermatic PX300) from their metal housings and consolidated these into a single Cantex box where all the low voltage conduit resides. This eliminated having to mount the 2 PX300 boxes. Clever, I think.
 
I wouldn't put the IntelliFlo on a GFCI breaker as they have a tendency to trip for no reason at all. The electrical noise from the variable frequency drive on the pump tends to trip the GFCI. If it's not required by code, don't bother.

As for your last breaker spot, if you haven't already done so, you should add a surge protector to that (both legs). The IntelliFlo is a sensitive piece of electrical equipment and can be easily damaged by a surge from a lightening strike. They cost $100 and are cheap insurance against Mother Nature causing harm.


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JoyfulNoise said:
I wouldn't put the IntelliFlo on a GFCI breaker as they have a tendency to trip for no reason at all. The electrical noise from the variable frequency drive on the pump tends to trip the GFCI. If it's not required by code, don't bother.

As for your last breaker spot, if you haven't already done so, you should add a surge protector to that (both legs). The IntelliFlo is a sensitive piece of electrical equipment and can be easily damaged by a surge from a lightening strike. They cost $100 and are cheap insurance against Mother Nature causing harm.


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Click to expand...

Interesting...I am in the extended city limits, so there is no electrical inspection required so I can leave off the GFCI. I have an Eaton CHSPT2ULTRA on the panel...a friend works for Eaton and donated it to the pool build. It's mounted directly into a panel knock out. The lip of the panel door interferes slightly with the surge suppressor. The door closes, but has a little tension on it. I need to see if I can lower the surge suppressor slightly.


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My SPD is mounted at the ET8 panel. As SPDs go, the closer it is to the thing it is protecting, the better.


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Where are the pictures!?!?

Here's my most recent to compare:

IMG_20170424_154310159.jpg

I like the idea of combining the transformers into one box.... If only there was something to look at!

GFCI breakers are a code requirements for pumps just about everywhere. I've never had an issue with the Eatons tripping erroneously. My feeling is that most people experiencing issues with false trips are using low quality breakers since the 220V breakers are so costly.

Is the ET getting it's power before or after the GFI outlet on the pool light circuit?
 
Brian,

That is very nice set up you did.. Looks almost professional... :p

I see that you installed the GFCI breakers at the bottom. I know it makes no real difference, but I'm sure there is a reason you did that, so what is it?

Everyone I've installed, or seen installed, has the bigger breakers at the top. Now that I have seen your layout, I have no idea why I did what I did. Human nature to start at the top and work down I guess???

Thanks for posting and I love your work.

Jim R.
 
Foos,

Sounds like your electrician passed to me...

I believe that the GFCI random trips are caused by electrical noise, as Matt points out, and also the fact that a lot of installers use the pump's GFCI to power other things.

Pentair actually sells their own GFCI breaker to help prevent the trips. My pool builder always use the Pentair breaker, and as cheap as he is, there must be a reason.. :cool:

Sounds like everything is coming together nicely,

Jim R.
 
bdavis466 said:
Where are the pictures!?!?

I like the idea of combining the transformers into one box.... If only there was something to look at!

GFCI breakers are a code requirements for pumps just about everywhere. I've never had an issue with the Eatons tripping erroneously. My feeling is that most people experiencing issues with false trips are using low quality breakers since the 220V breakers are so costly.

Is the ET getting it's power before or after the GFI outlet on the pool light circuit?
Click to expand...
There is a parallel connection into the breaker for both the lights and ET8 (see picture below, third breaker from bottom with 2 wires). I'm guessing that is technically against code. It is not a GFI outlet on the lights. Zero GFI breakers in the panel. The lights are LED niche lights (Globrite from a 12V transformer), is a GFI still required?
IMG_3794.jpg

I confirmed the Intelliflo VS is on a dedicated breaker and the SWG is connected thru the pump/filter relay.

Shot of the transformers re-mounted in Cantex box. It is a tight fit.
IMG_3793.jpg

Other pics. There is one transformer mounted on the house that is for my landscape lighting.
IMG_3790.jpgIMG_3789.jpg
 
I dunno if I like the transformer setup. Transformers generate heat from not only power dissipation but also inductive losses in the ferromagnetic core. Intermatic makes a PX-600 which is essentially two PX-300's arrange in a bigger box. The box should have some kind of venting to it to allow for air flow.

Since you're driving LEDs with it, I guess it's ok. I'd just keep an eye on the heat generated.


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No GFI of the Globrites is fine. The only thing that would protect is the line that runs from the panel to the transformers. All GFI protection is lost after the transformer anyway. But...

I don't like the high and low voltage power mixed in the Cantex box without some sort of divider. That is a definite code violation and while very unlikely, if something goes crazy in there and one of the low voltage legs gets energized with line voltage, you now have non-GFI protected electricity headed straight into your pool...

- - - Updated - - -

Jimrahbe said:
Brian,

That is very nice set up you did.. Looks almost professional... :p

I see that you installed the GFCI breakers at the bottom. I know it makes no real difference, but I'm sure there is a reason you did that, so what is it?

Everyone I've installed, or seen installed, has the bigger breakers at the top. Now that I have seen your layout, I have no idea why I did what I did. Human nature to start at the top and work down I guess???

Thanks for posting and I love your work.

Jim R.
Click to expand...

Bad habit I guess. I always do it the same way - pumps start at the bottom, ET breaker always at the top and all the other circuits work down from that one.
 
bdavis466 said:
I don't like the high and low voltage power mixed in the Cantex box without some sort of divider. That is a definite code violation and while very unlikely, if something goes crazy in there and one of the low voltage legs gets energized with line voltage, you now have non-GFI protected electricity headed straight into your pool...
Click to expand...
Not sure I see a difference between the Cantex box and Intematic PX300, they both have HV and LV. I know you can't run high and low voltage in the same conduit, but a transformer enclosure has to have both HV and LV...that's the nature of a transformer. I don't recall seeing a separator in the PX300 box, but could be wrong.
 
In case someone else decides to use a Eaton surge protector with an Easytouch panel, it doesn't quite fit attached directly to the 1/2" knock out. Use a 1/2" Halex water tight hub, found at Home Depot. The ET door lip was interfering, putting a lot of pressure on the latch to hold the door shut. This is basically a female to male threaded adapter. It drops the Eaton low enough to miss the door lip.

IMG_3818.jpgIMG_3820.jpg


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Fill water numbers:
CH=275
TA=180
PH=8.2
Any concerns on the CH? I understand the quartz plaster will drive this up and I need to stay under 500 during plaster curing. Do I need a calcium inhibitor?


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You should use some sort of a sequestrant while the pool is filling. Startup Tec and Jack's Magic are the two I prefer.

Your calcium level isn't terrible but have several gallons of acid on hand to combat the pH rise from your high TA.
 
bdavis466 said:
You should use some sort of a sequestrant while the pool is filling. Startup Tec and Jack's Magic are the two I prefer.

Your calcium level isn't terrible but have several gallons of acid on hand to combat the pH rise from your high TA.
Click to expand...

Thanks. have some Jack's Magic magenta on the way. I will check with the plaster company to see if they plan to add anything.


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