Recent content by zac280

The CAT5e is all run under the floor from my main Ethernet switch, and the iAqualink is mounted to a floor joist. It's a sealed crawlspace, so weather protected and maintains good temperature and humidity. The only thing that runs outside is the 485 cable to the controller just on the other side...

I replaced the whole 2.0 assembly with a 3.0. All is takes is swapping the 485 connector at the RS controller. I used wired Ethernet instead of WiFi, didn't touch the antenna. All my smart devices are on a separate 2.4 GHz only guest SSID.

Three months ago, I got tired of the constant Wifi drops from my iAqualink 2.0, so I dropped 500 bucks on eBay and bought a brand new iAqualink 3.0. This time, I ran the wire into my conditioned crawlspace to better protect it from the elements, and it also had a good strong Wifi signal from...

Based on my experience with a bad temperature sensor, the Jandy software has weird behavior when anything is wrong in the system. My 5-yo PLC1400 SWG has been throwing intermittent errors for the past month, and a cleaning didn't help, so I'll be replacing it this weekend. For about the same...

I'll add my datapoint. I'm on the fourth year with my iAqualink 2.0, and the connection drops have gotten more frequent. I suspect the humidity/moisture issues that some here have noted. I moved my Ubiquiti long range AP closer, and maybe it helped some. Regardless, I went ahead and dropped $500...

I replaced the water temp sensor and everything is back up and running, easy job. You may be right that it doesn't let the SWG run because it thinks the pool pump is off, as on the iAqualink home screen it showed pump off, even though the status could read a pump RPM. The third party sensor...

84F. Isn't that the temp from the SWG sensor? I think the one sticking through the pipe is bad. The SWG can also read salt correctly.

My pool is less than 2 years old and I'm getting the pool temp short error in iAqualink. Posts in this forum point to it being a bad water temp sensor, so I ordered two on Amazon for $25. The weird thing is the aquapure display shows 0%, even though it's set for 20%. I know it's not making...

Thanks Jim, I didn't think about there being a separate breaker for the SWG as it wasn't labeled in my box, but that did the trick. I was about to just break down and add salt as the new 144 error was causing a beep every few minutes which I could hear in the house. Chris, good to hear about...

My plan for winter was to keep the pump running, vacuum as needed, and add chlorine and acid by hand. I turned the Jandy SWG down to 0%, since I see no option in iAqualink to just turn it off. After a while, it showed "Low salt" but I wasn't worried because I'd ramp everything back up in the...

Pentair is still in the lead for automation imo. My PB went with Jandy/Zodiac, and they still don't have smart home support. It's probably just a matter of time, as they need to compete and many people have requested it of them, but in the meantime it falls back to DIY solutions. I set up mine...

Is there a way in iAqualink to automatically adjust the VSP to the enabled water feature? It seems like it should work that way. I have a VSP speed label named Waterfall and the Aux label says Waterfall, but the pump speed doesn't automatically adjust. Is there another way to do this?

TA 60-70, never added base since start-up. CH - 340. Fill water is 60 ppm, but CH seems to keep rising from 220 started at in Feb, never added more calcium. Salt 3200 Only run the water features for a few hours on the weekends. Rain seems to have no effect on pH. My concern is that the...

New pool this year, so I know I'll have a bad pH rise until the plaster cures. However, I wonder if decreasing my VSP/SWG runtime would help slow it. Currently running 24/7 @ 1600 RPM, SWG at 30% to keep FC 3-5 ppm (CYA 70, 50 ppm borates). I'm currently adding half a gallon MA every 5 days once...