My pool is less than 2 years old and I'm getting the pool temp short error in iAqualink. Posts in this forum point to it being a bad water temp sensor, so I ordered two on Amazon for $25. The weird thing is the aquapure display shows 0%, even though it's set for 20%. I know it's not making chlorine and I'm dumping chlorine until the new sensors come in. Is there a logical reason why the software would disable the aquapure if it can't read the water temp? I've seen the suggestion to swap the air and temp sensors, but I'll just wait for the ones to come in. iAqualink gives no indication that aquapure is disabled.
Broken water temp sensor disables aquapure?
- Thread starter zac280
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,075
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,146
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
If you press the temp button on the Aquapure, what is the temp?
It's the bottom right button.
It's the bottom right button.
84F. Isn't that the temp from the SWG sensor? I think the one sticking through the pipe is bad. The SWG can also read salt correctly.
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,146
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
I think the way it works is if the main temp sensor isn't working, the Aqualink will not allow the SWG to run. This is the same thing that happens if you turn off the pump and the temp reading goes away (shows "--"). You can switch your air and water temp sensors around to temporarily provide a temp reading.
I replaced the water temp sensor and everything is back up and running, easy job. You may be right that it doesn't let the SWG run because it thinks the pool pump is off, as on the iAqualink home screen it showed pump off, even though the status could read a pump RPM.
The third party sensor seems to work just as well as the OEM. New has red/white wires instead of red/black. The old sensor reads around 165 ohms, which must be low enough for the software to consider it a short. I did have to cycle auto/service again after starting up the controller, as the first time it came up I got an Aquapure RS485 error and iAqualink wasn't detecting it.
Here's the old vs the new:
The third party sensor seems to work just as well as the OEM. New has red/white wires instead of red/black. The old sensor reads around 165 ohms, which must be low enough for the software to consider it a short. I did have to cycle auto/service again after starting up the controller, as the first time it came up I got an Aquapure RS485 error and iAqualink wasn't detecting it.
Here's the old vs the new:
If the AquaLink system isn't getting a water temp reading, it assumes the pump isn't running. If the pump isn't running it won't allow operations like salt water systems and heaters. If you want to run your AquaPure salt system I suggest removing the 4-pin connection to allow it to run separately from the system. Off of its own sensor.
- Jun 7, 2017
- 9,146
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,196
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I think it is a good idea to always keep a spare 10K thermistor on hand.some seemed to last forever and While others last less than a year.not sure why I think it has something to do with the case material and maybe the manufacturing process for the case. Major brands do seem to last longer but they cost about three times as much or more.