Recent content by MikeSTL

My ph=7.4, TA=80. The instructions said ph should be 7.2-7.8 and TA should be 60-120. So, I was in the specified range. However, I've since noticed that other products seem to recommend higher ph/TA. So, perhaps I should have erred more to the higher end of the spectrum. And, the...

Trying to figure out the next step. First a little history… Saturday we got trounced with 5” of rain in a very short period of time. It overwhelmed our gutters and drainage. It also overcame the pool deck grading and dumped a bunch of mud/dirt into the pool. It’s actually more of a light gray...

Ironically, the best deals are going to be at the beginning of the season. Maytronics will have rebates then. So, if you are trying to get a good deal on a cleaner for next season, I'd wait. I also have the S300i. And, the cart is REALLY nice to have. I don't use the BT function all that...

I wouldn't regularly add it. Just test it regularly - around once a month or so. And, you won't really be adding it very often. From my experience, the 0.15 level or above seems to provide rock-solid protection. The protection seems to weaken a little below 0.1. So, I think 0.2 is a good...

What you are implying here is that R-003 somehow neutralizes the effects of the R-0871 drops. As I said, I'm not a chemist. So, I didn't know for sure exactly what these reagents do. However, I am an engineer. So, I conducted a little experiment of my own to find out. Let's see, I need some...

Hmmm... The instructions for this test don't indicate that extra drop. This seems reasonable for the FC test. But, wouldn't adding that extra drop affect the follow-on CC test? Logically, it seems like you'd be starting the CC test with an extra drop already added. And, it would be...

For your own copper testing, I'd highly recommend the LaMotte 3619 Copper Test. It's under $20. You can decide if it's worth it.

I currently have what I believe is a PAC-FAB Challenger. The pump is a 34-3240 (barely readable tag). And, the motor is a Centurion 168454. This seems to be the direct replacement INYOPOOLS Motor . And, from what I can gather I need some kind of seal kit. I have removed the motor previously...

I use the Costco Clorox Xtra Blue 3" tablets on and off (depending on if I need CYA or not). I know there is much misinformation on here about them containing copper. They do not (Safety Data Sheet). But, that's not what I'm asking about here. I'm actually curious about the Boric acid...

I actually use a copper algaecide. So, I figured I'd respond to this. I LOVE the results I've gotten from it for many of the same reasons you've noted. My mustard algae is a thing of the past. In fact, ALL algae is a thing of the past. My chlorine is MUCH more stable. So, I am saving a ton...

CYA is the most inaccurate thing on a test strip. The problem isn't necessarily the 30-50 range. The real problem is that a test strip will typically show 30-50 when the actual CYA is 100+. From my experience, I've only seen CYA measure somewhat accurately on very fresh strips. However, that...

I use the BD reagent with the BD test tube. I also have the Taylor 9058 test comparator that comes with the K-2006. I have held the test tubes up to each other. And, I can confirm they are different. For example, the 60 line on a BD lines up with 80 on Taylor. This would lead me to believe that...

My S300i also looks like that. But, isn't that the back roller, though?

Yes, the caddy is very nice. I bought the S300i for the other features. I was thinking, "Oh well, it comes with a caddy that I really don't need." However, after using it, that caddy is REALLY nice. The power box snaps into it. And, it has a place to wrap both the power cord and the cord going...

You have the exact same kit I have. And, you bought it from the same place. I intentionally added about .2 ppm worth of a copper-based algaecide (which worked very well, BTW). And, guess what the LaMotte 3619 said I had in my water? .2 ppm. Spot on. So, IMHO, that test kit is very accurate...