Recent content by jedigrover

It really varies for each individual situation. I also run borates in my pool, which tends to act as an algaestat. And I do maintenance doses of polyquat algaecide (60% poly algaecide)--which is also much more of an algaestat than algaecide, despite the marketing [this is a deviation from the...

Pretty much. CYA does other things than just act as a sunscreen for the chlorine. It also makes the chlorine less irritating to the skin. Essentially, it just keeps the extra (not being actively consumed) chlorine in storage (like a capacitor, in electronics) and when the FC level falls, it...

I'd be worried about that CH number 1st. That is getting pretty high. Only solution for that is partial drain & re-fill. Then you can worry about the alkalinity (baking soda to raise) and pH (acid to lower). You have to wonder where all that Calcium came from. Is it from fill water, or is...

Sure looks like a bond-beam crack behind that tile. The way the crack is going on the coping makes me think there may be an expansion issue with the deck that needs addressing. If you can see gunite spots appearing through the plaster, then you are definitely due for a re-surface.

If you have a TF-100, why did you go to the pool store to check CYA? You can do it yourself. I don't trust pool store results, even with CYA. They want to sell you things, so it's always in their interest to find something wrong. Probably got the algae from all the rain. FC of 3 may not be...

Dry acid is a no-no with SWG's. I have had issues finding MA in the DFW area. Some places have it, some don't. It's the most depleted stock I've ever seen for it.

Sounds very odd. Sure you don't have a leak? CYA does get used up over time (but very, very slowly); but it doesn't evaporate and UV exposure shouldn't be killing it. Best bet is a leak--even a small one--that you haven't noticed (assuming you have an autofill).

It sounds like the control unit may have a problem. I'm not as familiar with the Aqua Trol as I am with the integrated unit in ProLogic, but I would suggest looking to see if there is a fuse that can be replaced. Often, adding salt without turning off the chlorinator until the salt mixes in...

You might need to capture them and take them to a pest control store to be certain what will work, but I have had good luck with bait stations like these: https://smile.amazon.com/Kness-Ants-No-More-Station-2-Pack/dp/B00B9IK0IE And there are several types of liquid bait you can use, like this...

If you mean CelaPerl, it is perlite based & I'm using it right now with no problems whatsoever--behaves just like DE at 1/2 the weight. Still dusty, IMO, but probably less toxic.

Trust your own tests. CYA is the most difficult test to perform, but with practice you can learn what to look for. I recommend getting tftestkits' CYA reference sample. It is a calibrated sample that you use in place of your pool water to practice the test and see what the answer should look...

"Fresh water" includes SWG pools. "Salt water" would be referring to oceanic conditions, like salt-water aquariums, etc. SWG pools have 1/10th the salt of seawater (or less). They are fresh water.

I suspect that modification was done with a 1 1/2" MPT to slip adapter, and then a slip elbow (edit: looking closer, nope--not sure how they got that elbow in there). There is not enough clearance to screw in a threaded elbow. I've considered doing something like that to mine. My issue with...

Never had a problem with mine, though I detest Pentair's design of the stupid thing. It is in a horrible place, right below the plumbing inlet/outlet. They should have kept the original pac-fab design that had it coming out the back, side-mount, and with standard NPT threads that you could...

The sand is curious. I get some sand in my pool from my old sandstone coping eroding, but it looks like you have brick. On the black algae, you just have to keep the chlorine up and brush often. Don't really try to scratch it all out with the wire brush in one go. It won't work & you'll do...