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It really varies for each individual situation. I also run borates in my pool, which tends to act as an algaestat. And I do maintenance doses of polyquat algaecide (60% poly algaecide)--which is also much more of an algaestat than algaecide, despite the marketing [this is a deviation from the...

Pretty much. CYA does other things than just act as a sunscreen for the chlorine. It also makes the chlorine less irritating to the skin. Essentially, it just keeps the extra (not being actively consumed) chlorine in storage (like a capacitor, in electronics) and when the FC level falls, it...

I'd be worried about that CH number 1st. That is getting pretty high. Only solution for that is partial drain & re-fill. Then you can worry about the alkalinity (baking soda to raise) and pH (acid to lower). You have to wonder where all that Calcium came from. Is it from fill water, or is...

Sure looks like a bond-beam crack behind that tile. The way the crack is going on the coping makes me think there may be an expansion issue with the deck that needs addressing. If you can see gunite spots appearing through the plaster, then you are definitely due for a re-surface.

If you have a TF-100, why did you go to the pool store to check CYA? You can do it yourself. I don't trust pool store results, even with CYA. They want to sell you things, so it's always in their interest to find something wrong. Probably got the algae from all the rain. FC of 3 may not be...

Dry acid is a no-no with SWG's. I have had issues finding MA in the DFW area. Some places have it, some don't. It's the most depleted stock I've ever seen for it.

Sounds very odd. Sure you don't have a leak? CYA does get used up over time (but very, very slowly); but it doesn't evaporate and UV exposure shouldn't be killing it. Best bet is a leak--even a small one--that you haven't noticed (assuming you have an autofill).

It sounds like the control unit may have a problem. I'm not as familiar with the Aqua Trol as I am with the integrated unit in ProLogic, but I would suggest looking to see if there is a fuse that can be replaced. Often, adding salt without turning off the chlorinator until the salt mixes in...

You might need to capture them and take them to a pest control store to be certain what will work, but I have had good luck with bait stations like these: https://smile.amazon.com/Kness-Ants-No-More-Station-2-Pack/dp/B00B9IK0IE And there are several types of liquid bait you can use, like this...

If you mean CelaPerl, it is perlite based & I'm using it right now with no problems whatsoever--behaves just like DE at 1/2 the weight. Still dusty, IMO, but probably less toxic.

Trust your own tests. CYA is the most difficult test to perform, but with practice you can learn what to look for. I recommend getting tftestkits' CYA reference sample. It is a calibrated sample that you use in place of your pool water to practice the test and see what the answer should look...

"Fresh water" includes SWG pools. "Salt water" would be referring to oceanic conditions, like salt-water aquariums, etc. SWG pools have 1/10th the salt of seawater (or less). They are fresh water.

I suspect that modification was done with a 1 1/2" MPT to slip adapter, and then a slip elbow (edit: looking closer, nope--not sure how they got that elbow in there). There is not enough clearance to screw in a threaded elbow. I've considered doing something like that to mine. My issue with...

Never had a problem with mine, though I detest Pentair's design of the stupid thing. It is in a horrible place, right below the plumbing inlet/outlet. They should have kept the original pac-fab design that had it coming out the back, side-mount, and with standard NPT threads that you could...

The sand is curious. I get some sand in my pool from my old sandstone coping eroding, but it looks like you have brick. On the black algae, you just have to keep the chlorine up and brush often. Don't really try to scratch it all out with the wire brush in one go. It won't work & you'll do...

Some people don't use sealant on the shaft seal seat. I do, because that's what the Pentair service video shows. I've used the GE "Silicone II" stuff with no problems. You just want a TINY bit, otherwise you'll have a mess on your hands. Easiest way to seat the seal is to use a 1" PVC...

To weigh the basket down so it will stay sunk in the skimmer. Some baskets have integral weights and don't need a rock.

I would not adjust CH until after you get the TA and pH down enough to result in a CSI <= 0.3. Right now, with the conditions of your water, it is saturated with calcium, which is why it is precipitating out of solution.

Generally with black algae, if you pick at it with a bamboo skewer or rub it with a trichlor puck, it will start to scratch off. You don't need to SLAM for black algae. You do need to operate chlorine at a high level (high normal, or even a little higher). The key is to brush with an algae...

I imagine the CH trending down even after adding calcium is due to it falling out of solution as scale. The pH rising so much is due to the TA being so high. You are going to have to use a great deal of acid to work that TA down. You might consider a partial water swap to help. But test your...

That high TA & pH is driving the scale production. Your CSI > 1 is very much on the scale-producing side of the equation. That's what's driving this gritty white substance. That is calcium scale.

Might I recommend: https://smile.amazon.com/Emsiok-Inground-Canister-Prevents-Equipment/dp/B09WK93LSP/ref=sr_1_14?crid=1M19HIEG688GN&keywords=skimmie+skimmer+grate&qid=1657059273&sprefix=skimmie+skimmer+grate%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-14

I was attracted to the fiber based on the fact that a very small, very light bag is sufficient for a full fill of my filter. Also looking to avoid the dust. There’s no getting around the dust, it turns out. And I found the fiber more irritating on the skin and more of a pain to work with...

I've never noticed much difference from one brand to the next. I have tried the cellulose fiber substitute (specifically, Jack's Magic brand) and it works ok, but is a royal mess when doing a deep clean (more so than DE). I also didn't feel that it performed quite as well as DE. Right now, I'm...

Without frequent testing of your calcium hardness, it’s hard to say whether you need calcium added or not. But calcium doesn’t evaporate, so adding it continuously will tend to make it build up. If your TA and PH get too high, you could get scaling. That said, of all the solid varieties of...

The reason I ask is that in most cases the answer is no. Light niches are usually set on an exterior wall so as to run the conduit easily. That the water is draining back to pool level remains an important clue. If you are not losing any water beyond evaporation from the pool/spa as a whole...

Is there a path from the spa light to the pool?

I would think so too, but if it were still something like the check valve, it would act this way. The way to eliminate or confirm the light is to totally isolate the spa. Plug both drains and returns, making it effectively a big bucket. Fill with water and see what happens overnight. It will...

It probably builds an average over time. The circupool systems look to me to be almost a clone of the Hayward ones. There will be times during high production that it may estimate low. Over time, it should get more accurate. But always cross-check with the Taylor test before adding salt.