Recent content by Fool4pool

Bought a home 3 years ago with a pool. Thanks to TFP, have the chemistry down. But everything is old, so it's time to prioritize. Looking to see if any of you have questions I should be asking, things to consider, etc. And, of course, ballpark prices. 1) Liner. Not horrible but some fading/...

Thanks, I can see how that would work. I don't have any floaters or pucks, so it would be easier and less expensive for me to just dump in an extra jug or two of chlorine, if that would accomplish the same thing?

Closing my pool for the 3rd time. First 2 years I used poly 60, once it was clear at opening, the other time somewhat green. So I've decided to ditch it this year. For $30, I figure I'll just SLAM to close, and honestly I will probably SLAM at opening no matter what anyhow. Question is, if...

So, based on my CYA of 40, my FC should be 5-7. We rarely use the pool during the week, so is there any downside to keeping it at 7-9 just as a precaution? Then let it drift down a little more during the weekend? Doesn't cost any more, as I thought it through. Once you're at a level, you add...

Ok, but then I don't understand why I would slam at all if using algaecide 60. Why not just keep chlorine level low? I guess that's the part I don't get.

If you scroll down a bit, I just went through this. I'll let the experts chime in, but here's what I learned. Read how to slam in pool school and follow it exactly. That means FC always needs to be above minimum spam level, and keep pump running the entire time. As I learned, it will stay...

That was my pool all summer 3-4 months. Backwashed once a month maybe, as pressure was always the same. Then we got massive rains coupled with leaving solar cover on for days, equals algae I guess. Hot, humid, wet. So, yes, was adding de and backwashing several times a day after that...

Thanks, it is confusing though. So I would slam, even though it doesnt need to be slammed, drift fc down under 5ppm, then add polly 60? Not sure why I'm slamming if I have to bring it all the way down again. So then for 6 months it's just the alagaecide in there all winter and very little chlorine?

Thank you Mark, I think I have it figured out as water is back to clear, 0 cc, and passed Oclt. So I'm assuming what I thought was dirt was actually dead algae and the cloudiness was live algae? Rookie mistake called cockiness, lol. Did not do oclt after my original slam, it was clear so got...

I have seen several pros here say they slam a few days before closing and let it drift down? Why? Seems like slamming the day you close would have maximum benefit for the whole off season? So I'm curious about what I'm missing.

I'm at a loss. Not sure if its algae or not, and if it is not sure if it's dead. A bit of research it MAY be mustard algae if its algae at all. Brownish yellow dust on pool floor. But I have never let FC drop below minimum, so in theory I shouldn't have any. I have vacuumed to waste 3 times...

Thank you both. So I would run the pump until it's gone, then another 24 hours? Or once it's all gone I can go back to my shutdown schedule?

True, put this wasnt/ isn't algae. Just a bunch of dirt and who knows what that blew in during a storm.

I've read about how to add cya, but quick question. I always have a skimmer sock in my skimmer. So could I just dump the cya into my skimmer, since a sock is in there already? Wouldn't that be the same thing as dumping in a cotton athletic sock?

Thanks, impatient here. It is slowly improving. Vacuum and brush every day, de anf backwash 3 times a time, and have let my pump run 16 hours a day instead of 10-12. Let in run 24 hours one day. I'm just used to the instant results of slam, spoiled. I do feel there must be something out there...