Recent content by DrNinjaman

CYA is at 30ppm. (Though I haven't tested it in quite a while.) And my pool service place replaced the element again on their nickel, thankfully. The element looked like it was overheated, not corroded much, and my skimmer door has been sticking at the top, so they think that, or that combined...

Salt's at 1628 ppm. Borates at 31, CH 120. I know that titanium is recommended, but I just bought the spa three years ago, so the heater is whatever it came with stock and then replaced under warranty.

Checked the water just now and the salt cell definitely didn't need to be running. It was running when I came out to check this morning and the water just tested at 7.6 FC, 0-0.2 CC. pH 7.9, TA 50. FC is normally between 3 to 5 ppm with the Smarterspa. The pH and TA have been sitting at those...

We had a city-wide power outage for about an hour last night, and this morning when I went out to start changing the water for the spring, I noticed that the tub wasn't running. The smartspa chlorine generator was running, which is something it has been doing more frequently lately, but the spa...

My spa is pretty big at 10'x8', so in the winter the cover can get pretty unwieldy and ultimately bent the tubes of the lift at the bottom. The base components were basically undamaged however, so I built up a new tube frame out of mostly 1" EMT conduit, with a few 12" long 3/4" chunks to act as...

I'd say when the vinyl outer fabric layer is cracked and toast is when you buy a new one. If the foam is water logged, you can replace it with XPS rigid home insulation board for about $100. That stuff is closed cell, so will be less prone to absorbing water even without the plastic wrapping...

Keeping the pH in the 7s is exactly what I'm concerned with. While also not running out of TA. And yeah, PoolMath does all those calculations automatically and it says I need to keep my TA above 50. But if I do that, my pH climbs even when I'm not using the jets. And when I said chlorine is...

As I have discussed in a previous post, I suspect the accelerated heater (electric element heater) corrosion was due to my placement of the chlorine generator cell inside the return filter, so that the concentrated chlorine was funneled directly through the circ pump and heater, without diluting...

Thanks, that is helpful. So to sum up, I'm worrying too much. That's what I figured. I was aware that CYA buffered the effect of pH on chlorine, I know I have read that before in one form or another, I just forgot how effective it is at doing so. I do keep everything at the recommended levels...