Newbie from Melbourne, Australia

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Dippa

0
Oct 31, 2015
47
Melbourne , Australia
Hi Everyone
I built a new home and pool and moved in December 2014. First time pool owner and struggling to get a handle on keeping the pool algae free since June this year. I'm glad I came across TPC as I have concluded that pool shop testing is pretty much a "hit and miss" affair and I have spent hundreds of dollar recently and getting no where.
I read through most of pool school and getting ready to follow the TPC recommendations.
As with other Aussie members getting a decent test kit proved difficult. I chased up the links provided for the TFT-100 test kits but not available here and the USA makers are unable to supply me.
I have ordered the Taylors k-2006c kit from a USA supplier and hope to get it in2 weeks.
I am looking forward to learning lots and having a great, clean and usable pool as at the moment I'm not liking my pool as I'm spending more time cleaning rather then in it!
Thanks
 
Welcome Dippa!

You've made the best investment in your pool- a K2006C and worth the hassle of getting it from the US. Once you have it, you will discover that maintaining a healthy and 'troublefree' pool is possible and inexpensive. Post up your test results when you have them and the helpful people on this forum will be able to guide you along. You'll find many of us have have walked the same road you have!
 
Hi Jezza
Thanks for the welcome. Can't wait for the K-2006c. Last Friday took the same sample to 2 different pool shops within the hour and I couldnt believe the different results. I've been getting "good test results" from pool shop but continue getting a green plume when brushing parts off the pool walls. Keep calling SWG manufacturing in case that's not working but they made some recommendations but suggested that I double check the pool shop results.
Will need to work out what to do until I get the test kit.
 
Is it possible to purchase a CYA test locally? If we had a number, that we could trust, we might be able to get something started while you wait for the K-2006C

What we have found is a SWG is great for keeping your pool clean and clear, but can't help once algae gets a foot hold. If we knew what your CYA level was we could suggest a level of FC that you need to start clearing up your pool.

For now, please post a few pics of your pool and equipment. At least one picture that includes something that goes into the pool. A ladder, stairs, even a vacuum hose will do. What you are going to do, is take that same icture each day. That way it's eaiser to see the progress as your pool clears up.
 
Hi pabeader
I do have CYA levels tested by pool shop. The SWG guy asked me to get to 60 which I did as measured 11 October but was 45 and 50 on 27 Oct by 2 different pool shops. These were the results on 27 Oct.
result shop 1 / shop 2
Salt 4300/ not tested
CYA 45/50
FC 5.2/9.3
TC 6.3/9.8
pH 7.6/7.6
TA 25/80
CH 380/231
phosphate 0.0/0.4
My pool water looks crystal clear its just that I get some green come off the wall when I brush in the morning, in particular in the corners where pool gets shade in the afternoon.
My SWG works on ORP reading. In runs min of 8hrs. At the recommended setting of 650 the green comes back quicker and cannot maintain adequate FC so was recommended to raise upto 750 which I have done for a few days. This setting with daily brushing is keeping green to a minimum.
I have got photos that I took today but need to work out how to load here.
i also have a simple 4 test kit that measures Chlorine (pink comparison method), pH and pH demand and TA. The last 2 days it's reading over 5ppm so have done a dilution with tap water to get a reading between 1.5-2ppm and multiple by dilution to get 8-10ppm approx, so I have lowered the SWG back to 710 to see if I get a drop overnight and tomorrow. Will re test at pool shop on Monday.
 
Dippa, you should have no green in the pool. Green = algae. You need to perform a "SLAM" via the SLAM link below in my sig to kill the algae, but you can't adjust and properly test the high FC (20) required until you receive your K-2006C test kit. Your SWG is not capable of generating enough FC to complete a SLAM, so you may want to start shopping around for a good price on liquid chlorine (regular household bleach) which is the primary sanitizer we rely on for a SLAM. Read the SLAM page closely, and once your kit arrives you can start the SLAM. Until your kit arrives, you may wish to consider adding one gallon of bleach to your water each day to help keep the green from getting much worse. Oh, and go ahead and lower pH slightly to about 7.2-7.4 BEFORE starting the SLAM.
 
I would use acid to adjust the pH now, then 30 mins later add the chlorine/bleach. Once you get your kit and start the SLAM, you'll want to turn the SWG off. In-line chlorinator feeders are convenient when you're away for a while (vacation), but not ideal for daily use because they (tabs/pucks) tend to increase CYA, so be careful about those. You'll get a good handle on everything once your kit arrives. That was a good call on the K-2006C.
 

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It sounds like Dippa has a more than usually automated system that includes dosing for pH and chlorine generation. The problem with these systems is they rely on sensors that are known to be questionable at best. ORP sensors are the subject of many threads on this site. Not much good to say about them either.

Dippa- once we get this algae problem cleared up, you are going to need to take a more active role in the day to day maintenance of your pool. I am, of course assuming, that you, like a lot of folks, tend to let the automation lead the way. More often then not this leads to green pools. So we'll be sure to get you in a good place and then we can go from there. You know that you have cal-hypo, that's more then most folks ever do. The down side to it is that it adds calcium to your pool. Not a bad thing, if you need it, but too much and you can have scaling issues.

Texas- considering the size of this pool, is one gallon enough for a holding pattern? It's only going to be like 6ppm if I did the Pool Math right...
 
Hi, so while I add 1 gallon of liq chlorine daily what is the target FC whist on this "holding pattern" before I do the SLAM?
Brushed pool walls this morning no green and did home test and notice a decrease in FC and a TA 70. (I know it's not the ideal test kit but its a guide to how pool is trending)
Also got pool tested by shop 2 and results are
salt 4600
CYA 60
FC 6
TC 6
pH 7.6
TA 60
CH 129
phosp 0.0
in Australia it's now common to have SWG pools with semi to fully automated systems. I do agree that the probes can be suspect so I intend to have the chemigem and stericel serviced after pool SLAMed and balanced.
As a side note the solar heating has been on winter mode, so it only flushes once a day. The solar pump filter had a green tinge so I suspect that it might also be a source of my algae. So I have been flushing out the system and I think it's helping.
 
Hi Johnmw1
This is my first pool and dont have any reference point to compare the Dolphin m5. I know another pool owner who has the older version was very happy with it. I'm happy with it. It's easy to use and clean. The filter cartridges are very easy to pull out and clean. Before I bought it I had a demo in my pool from rep.
You can get the same machine under different brands in the pool shop but I got my direct from maytronic sales manager of my area.
I find using the Dolphin much better then using the pool vacuum. All you do is drop it the pool and come back 2.5 hrs later and pull it out and rinse cartridge filters.
Dippa
 
Hi Dippa,
Im just dropping in for a minute to say welcome to TFP. You'll find the folks here very helpful and the TFP method of pool care will prove to be very successful.

Hopefully, your test kit will arrive before long and you can finally get on track to being algae free, and take control of your wallet back from the pool store.

cheers
:cheers:
 

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