Aqua trol RJ 0ppm salt

stewbeans22

Member
Apr 15, 2025
24
South
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
Evening all,

I have an Aqua trol RJ with a T-Cell-5 salt cell. I bought the pool used and it is roughly 4-4.5 yrs old. The SWG worked fine when we installed the pool a few months ago, however when the kids were swimming they said it seemed very salty. I went to the control unit to see what the ppm was and it said 0. After reading online I removed the cell and could see though it, I tried to reset the average salt, and examined the control board for any signs of fault or short. Everything looks good but I still cannot get it to read ppm. I ran though the display and it was reading the temp of the water at 76*F, salt was 0ppm, cell voltage 30.2, cell amperage .08, 82p for the dial, instant salt -0ppm, AL-7, and r1.47. Being an automation specialist and a background in instrumentation and electrical, I am curious to know where the salt probe is and how can I test it. I would also like to know how to test the cell and the board to determine which is actually bad. I don’t think my local pool store can test the cell.
 
There is no salt sensor. Salinity is calculated based on volts and amps performance of a new cell. The Wiki explains it.
 
The Aquarite is mostly the same, so most applies.


1744812547452.png
Holding the plug vertically with the cord going down and looking at the connection points. 1 is top left, 2 is top right, 3 is second down left, and so on with 9 being lower left and 10 being lower right.

  • 1) Black - Power to cell
  • 2) White - Power to cell
  • 3) Black - Power to cell
  • 4) White - Power to cell
  • 5) Brown - Not used
  • 6) Red - Goes to thermistor
  • 7) Orange - Not used on older models, used for OEM sense on new models.
  • 8) Yellow - Not used on older models, used for OEM sense on new models.
  • 9) Green - Not used
  • 10) Blue - Goes to thermistor.
To test the thermistor test between points 6 and 10 using a multimeter, the resistance should follow a 10k thermistor chart.

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

  • Report all diagnostic readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
 
I don’t think my local pool store can test the cell.
Find a store that can test the cell.


You can load test the board with a 24 volt 150 watt bulb.

Note: 150 actual watts, not "equivalent", Not LED.

Both black to one pin and both white to the other pin.

Pop off the cell cap with the label and show the wires.




1744813618104.png




1744813866109.png
 
Last edited:
full
 
The Aquarite is mostly the same, so most applies.


View attachment 638292
Holding the plug vertically with the cord going down and looking at the connection points. 1 is top left, 2 is top right, 3 is second down left, and so on with 9 being lower left and 10 being lower right.

  • 1) Black - Power to cell
  • 2) White - Power to cell
  • 3) Black - Power to cell
  • 4) White - Power to cell
  • 5) Brown - Not used
  • 6) Red - Goes to thermistor
  • 7) Orange - Not used on older models, used for OEM sense on new models.
  • 8) Yellow - Not used on older models, used for OEM sense on new models.
  • 9) Green - Not used
  • 10) Blue - Goes to thermistor.
To test the thermistor test between points 6 and 10 using a multimeter, the resistance should follow a 10k thermistor chart.

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

  • Report all diagnostic readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it
This is awesome thank you JamesW for this.

I would like to get some clarity....... when you say report all diagnostic readings, am I to do this with the cell plugged in somehow, or should I do it with the cell unplugged (with the description of the pins above as an example as to what they are in the plug.) Just want to make sure testing with the cell unplugged from the controller will be ok. Dont want the board to not work correctly if it is looking for some sort of resistance from the cell being plugged in to operate correctly.
 
Do it with the cell plugged in.

Cell Diagnostics
Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

Default salt display
Pool temp
Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
Cell current
Desired output (% of the knob)
Instant salinity
Product name
Software revision (r.XX)
Cell type

I ran though the display and it was reading the temp of the water at 76*F, salt was 0ppm, cell voltage 30.2, cell amperage .08, 82p for the dial, instant salt -0ppm, AL-7, and r1.47.
These indicate a bad cell if the voltage is steady.

Show the thermistor on the circuit board.

The thermistor is a black disc upper right.
 
Yes that is correct the voltage does not change whether the cell is generating or not. I have a video of scrolling through the display but cannot post it. I will have the do actual pics but I will get them posted.
 

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I have a video of scrolling through the display but cannot post it. I will have the do actual pics but I will get them posted.


Videos cannot be loaded onto the TFP server. Please load videos to YouTube, mark it PUBLIC, and post a link to the video in your thread. YouTube videos have a SHARE button that will give you the link to copy and paste into the forum.
 
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

You can post on YouTube and link here.

I don’t know what the salinity is as I havnt got anything to measure it with. I do have test strip but they only give free chlorine and such. I pretty much use the Aquatrol to monitor salinity, but as I’m discovering that isn’t the truest form is measurement.
 
It is probably a bad cell.

You can have the cell tested at a Hayward testing station.

Also, bring a water sample to check salinity.

You can do the load test with a 24 VDC 150 watt load to verify that the power unit works.

If the cell is confirmed bad, you can just cut off the cord and use it as a test part.

You need the temp reading, so keep that connected or use a 10k ohm resistor between red and blue wires.
 
Perfect. This is the info I needed. Thank you for your help and fast replies.
Next I’m thinking of upgrading to a more automated and remote monitored system. Got a post started in the pool automation section.
 
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