First time opening - does this plan look good?

[NewHouseFirstPool]

Over here I got some good advice about how to leave our new pool over the winter. Now it's March, and although St Louis is sure to bring some more chilly weather, it's been a warm March so far, so I'm planning for pool opening. After reading a bunch here, and watching some videos, I think I have a good idea of the very basics, so I'm feeling inspired to try to open myself rather than use the service that closed.

Pool: 17,000 gal, vinyl in-ground, 30ft x 18ft rectangle, Pentair Intellichlor SWG, TF-Pro Salt testing kit

Can you all give me a basic sanity check that I'm on the right track with this opening todo list? This will be my first time opening a pool.

0. I'm think of opening late March. Although the weather won't be warm enough for the family to want to swim, from what I've read it sounds better to open a bit earlier and keep up on water chemistry maintenance rather than opening late and risking warm weather turning the water bad.
1. Remove cover with the metal tool, fold, and put away
2. Cleanup obvious debris in the water, make sure water is around halfway at the skimmer opening
3. Remove jet plugs, point jets up
4. Insert Salt Water Generator (it is currently removed and spacer is it's place) — Question: what setting do I put it on? (see attached picture)
5. Add drain plug and pressure gauge to filter tank
6. Open intake valves — I'm assuming I want them all open at this point (see attached picture)
7. Prime pump by filling with water
8. Turn on pump
Question: what setting do I put the filter on at the beginning — Rise, Recirculate, Backwash, Filter? (see attached picture)
9. Make sure water flowing, no leaks
10. Add robot to start vacuuming and cleaning
11. After letting the water circulate for 30 minutes, test water chemistry
12. Fix water chemistry: this is where I have the biggest questions, so I guess I'll just post my results here once I test, but..
* Some sources say to just focus on chlorine levels at first, to make sure they are high enough to prevent algae from building up
* Other sources like here say to worry about all the levels including salt immediately.
* Since a SWG doesn't work until water is 60 degrees, what type of chlorine should I use in the interim to keep FC levels up?
* I'll be using my TF-Pro salt testing kit for the first time to test chem levels
13. Leave pump running and adjust water chemistry over next couple days
14. Once water levels are stable, keep balanced with regular testing throughout the season

Do I have the basics right? I'd appreciate clarification on steps 4, 8, and 12.

I'm really wanting to try this on my own instead of using a service, so I appreciate your help!

 

[Texas Splash]

Steps 1-8. basically yes, you have the right idea. I'd leave the SWG off for now since your water may still be a bit too cold. Just use liquid pool chlorine. You can get it at Home Depot, Lowes, the pool Store, or even Walmart (Pool Essentials).

Let the water mix for a good hour or two then take your first water sample for testing. Compare to the PoolMath APP and/or post here for us to review. From there, easy stuff.

 

[Newdude]

I'm really wanting to try this on my own instead of using a service

You got this. You got this by a MILE.

1. Remove cover with the metal tool, fold, and put away

I lay mine out in the yard for an hour or two each side to dry out.

2. Cleanup obvious debris in the water, make sure water is around halfway at the skimmer opening

Check.

3. Remove jet plugs, point jets up

Post pics. You likely have to reinstall the eyeball and retaining cover. The eyeballs go up just to barely break the surface water. No rooster tails.

4. Insert Salt Water Generator (it is currently removed and spacer is it's place) — Question: what setting do I put it on? (see attached picture)

It'll probably be too cold at first. We'll burn that bridge when we get to it.

5. Add drain plug and pressure gauge to filter tank

Check. And take that moment to ensure the pump and heater have their drain plugs snug. Hand tight only for any of them.

6. Open intake valves — I'm assuming I want them all open at this point (see attached picture)

Its easier to pull from one pipe, it doesn't matter which one as they are all flooded to the height of the pool water. Once it primes, then slowly open the rest, one by one until they are all flowing. Then set it however is normal after that. For example, 90% skimmers/ 10% main drain.

7. Prime pump by filling with water
8. Turn on pump
Question: what setting do I put the filter on at the beginning — Rise, Recirculate, Backwash, Filter? (see attached picture)

Check, check, filter.

9. Make sure water flowing, no leaks

Check

10. Add robot to start vacuuming and cleaning

Robot can go at any time, even taking several passes before popping the cover. Just pop a corner and toss it in. Run a few cycles and put the cover back.

11. After letting the water circulate for 30 minutes, test water chemistry

FC, PH and TA need 30 mins. Salt, CH and CYA need 24 hours.

12. Fix water chemistry:

Post up your #s and we got you.

 

[NewHouseFirstPool]

Thanks so much @Texas Splash and @Newdude! I'll post back in a couple weeks once I have some water chem results.

 

[SecoSteve]

You should fill in your signature, so at the bottom of your posts shows all your equipment listings. It will help answer questions.

Depending on what type of cover you have, the "metal tool" you have may only help with putting the cover ON, and not removing the cover. If it's spring loaded straps holding the cover on anchors in the deck, then you grab the first strap by the plastic cover and pull back the spring to get it over the anchor to remove it. Or, if you can't get the spring to pull back, unscrew the anchor to get the strap off.

You may want to wait until late April to open, because you may not be able to swim until late May, depending on your weather. I'm in PA and we don't typically get to swim until closer to Labor Day. It would be tough having to take care of the pool for nearly two months without swimming.

Also, laying your cover(solid covers) on your grass for too long will turn the grass brown quickly.

 

[Newdude]

the "metal tool" you have may only help with putting the cover ON, and not removing the cover. If it's spring loaded straps holding the cover on anchors in the deck

The metal tool takes those off. Put the notch of the tool towards the pool and twist it to make the notch pop the spring loop from the anchor. The first couple take some gentle kicks with the inside of your foot while twisting.

 

[sande005]

Did the closing company put antifreeze in any of your lines?? If so, you may want to modify the startup to avoid mixing it in the pool. Not harmful in any way, so perhaps it is just me who doesn't like having things added that don't serve a current purpose....

7,8, 9 , 10 clarification, otherwise:

When I had a sand filter, I would:

1. Set filter to "recirculate"
2. Then prime pump, and start it up.
3. Make sure everything is flowing, with no leaks. If you start with some valves closed as suggested above, as you open additional suction lines for the first time, there may be additional air sucked into the pump. This will usually flush itself out pretty quickly. Only if something is way off will you loose prime on the pump.
4. Then shut the pump off, change filter to "filter".
5. Restart pump.
6. As it runs, open the air bleed on the filter pressure gauge to let out air. Close once water starts coming out in a consistent amount.

SWCG initial setting - start moderately low. As noted, it may not even run due to low temps. But if it does, this time of year you won't need to generate a lot.
But, wait until you run your first tests. You might be low on salt, so the cell may not work due to that, either. It won't generate super fast, so over a period of time your testing will cause you to adjust up or down. Me? I use liquid to get the Cl to the optimal level quickly, then play with the SWCG settings later.

As far as testing - take the initial water samples. Let warm up to 70 or so. I use a dedicated water bottle, and put it in a sink of warmer water for a bit. Then your tests will be more accurate. Take it outside for running the actual tests, as the lighting conditions are far better.

 

[Homebrewale]

Have you considered a soft open? That's where you do everything on your list except remove the safety cover. I do a soft open around late March/early April when the pool water reaches 60F. The reason I run the pool with the cover on is to keep all the spring pollen and debris out of the water. We have heavy pine pollen in the spring. At the peak on a windy day, you can see it billowing in the air like yellow smoke. I've actually seen the pool pressure gauge rise 10 psi on the same day after backwashing. Then the maple trees drop all their seed helicopters and the sweetgums drop their pollen heads.

 

[NewHouseFirstPool]

Alright, I have two days now with water temperatures slightly above 60F, and the weather is trending warmer from here, so I think I'm going to open this weekend.

A quick salt test using one of those digital meters shows 1500 ppm the first day, 770 ppm the next. But maybe that's not too accurate until the water gets circulating.

I'll follow my basic plan above to open this weekend. I don't want to buy too many other chemicals until I get some water tests and can share numbers here for advice on what I actually need. But I will grab some liquid chlorine because I know I'll probably need that at first: this is the right stuff I assume? HDX Chlorinating Liquid for Swimming Pool Shock, 1-Gallon (3-Pack) 30128HDX - The Home Depot

 

[PoolStored]

Run the pump for 24 hours before testing.
That chlorine is fine. Walmart Pool Essentials Liquid Chlorine is a couple bucks cheaper. If you have a Menards near you, check stock, they are even cheaper.
Use your salt drop test for any adjustments. Don't trust the meter.

 

[SecoSteve]

Don't just buy that Chlorine without looking at the date code. I was at Walmart the other day and happened to see their Chlorine on the shelf. I looked at the date code and it was last years lot that they are still selling.

 

[Newdude]

+1. Mine had a shelf of old supply and a new batch around the corner.

 

[Homebrewale]

I commented awhile back that Walmart had it back in stock and it was fresh. I guess nobody is starting their pools yet. The same bleach is in the store with 28 date code on it.

 

[NewHouseFirstPool]

Well was all excited to open up today but we've got rain. Not heavy rain, but a constant drizzle.

I hadn't factored rain into the equation yet. Those of you with experience, should rain affect my opening plans? Is it best to wait for some clear days? Or can I continue with my plan as before?

I don't care about myself getting wet so much as wondering if the rain makes the opening job harder in terms of getting the equipment running and the chem levels tested and adjusted.

 

[Newdude]

should rain affect my opening plans?

You need to mix for 24 hours for CH, salt (if applicable) and CYA. FC, TA and Ph are good with 30 mins of mixing.

Rain is fresh water added proportionally to your 5ft (?) average depth pool. A 2 inch whopper of a storm will only dilute you 1/30th. A 6 inch stormzilla will dilute you 10% (of 60 inches), but if your FC was that close to min to care, you had way bigger problems already.

The stable parameters will be mid range and won't budge even with a stormzilla. Several storms latter they budge a little.

Rain will affect the ability to dry your cover though. I can go 3 hours on my grass with no harm, but I'd move it every few hours until it could dry out tomorrow.

 

[NewHouseFirstPool]

You need to mix for 24 hours for CH, salt (if applicable) and CYA. FC, TA and Ph are good 30 mins after mixing.

Rain is fresh water added proportionally to your 5ft (?) average depth pool. A 2 inch whopper of a storm will only dilute you 1/30th. A 6 inch stormzilla will dilute you 10% (of 60 inches), but if your FC was that close to min to care, you had way bigger problems already.

The stable parameters will be mid range and won't budge even with a stormzilla. Several storms latter they budge a little.

Rain will affect the ability to dry your cover though. I can go 3 hours on my grass with no harm, but I'd move every few hours until it could dry out tomorrow.

That's a good point about the grass. It will be hard to dry the cover out before storing and don't want to ruin the grass.

 

[NewHouseFirstPool]

So I popped the cover just to put the robot in to start cleaning a bit, but then the rain cleared and we felt inspired so we pulled the whole thing off. Man was that heavy! Definitely a two person task.

Would love to hear opinions on what the condition of the water and pool looks like to folks! The robot tracks show how dirty the bottom of the pool is. Not a lot of sun at the moment so it's hard to tell how dirty the water itself is.

Also note the water is well below the skimmer. Is my first task adding fresh water to get the level up, even before unplugging the jets and turning the pump on?

Appreciate your help!

 

[PoolStored]

Also note the water is well below the skimmer. Is my first task adding fresh water to get the level up, even before unplugging the jets and turning the pump on?

Yes. You can robot at the same time you are filling...

 

[Newdude]

The robot tracks show how dirty the bottom of the pool is. Not a lot of sun at the moment so it's hard to tell how dirty the water itself is.

Looks moderately clear to me, except with a dirty floor / stairs

Mine was pretty dirty too, and the patio under the cover where it all washed in was even worse because the cover stopped some of it. It wouldn't have mattered for me mesh/solid when it went under to get in. Lol.

 

[NewHouseFirstPool]

I'm basically waiting for the water to reach mid-skimmer while the robot does some cleaning, then I'll turn the pump on and do some water tests!

The pool was absolutely filthy, filled with all sorts of grime, insects, worms, etc. It's hard to believe the robot and some chlorine is going to get it clean enough to swim in.

Question: There are four jets or inlet valves around the pool, but only two of them are threaded and had plugs on them. I removed the plugs and added the jet things. What are the other two inlets or ports for? They're a bit lower than the jet valves, don't have threads, and I just feel something circular inside. In the picture, it's the lower one on the right.