Jandy AquaPure No Chlorine Production, But No Error Codes

[socalsharky]

I have been a pool owner and self-maintainer for over 20 years, but we recently moved into a new house with a pool. My old equipment was Pentair with a Hayward SCG and I was very familiar with that setup. This house has all Jandy equipment, including AquaLink and a AquaPure 1400 SWG. It has been cool recently in SoCal and I had not run a water test in about 3 weeks. I ran one a few days ago and got zero FC. All of the other water parameters looks pretty good, at least those that would affect FC generation (CYA = 60, pH=7.3, NaCl=3800, TA=55). I also took a water sample directly from one of the returns using a small hose and also got zero FC. I have cleaned the cell.

There are no error codes on the panel at all. It shows active flow, 80% chlorine production, and 3700ppm salt. After reading several threads here and elsewhere, I ran some voltage tests at the cell and got less than 1 VDC. When I test the voltage at the board, I get 8.4 VDC with the chlorine production set at 100%. I have read that these values are supposed to be 22 to 28 VDC.

Any ideas what is going on? I called Jandy tech support, and once I told them there were no error codes, they couldn't help anymore, as I am not a contractor or pool professional.

 

[Bperry]

I have been a pool owner and self-maintainer for over 20 years, but we recently moved into a new house with a pool. My old equipment was Pentair with a Hayward SCG and I was very familiar with that setup. This house has all Jandy equipment, including AquaLink and a AquaPure 1400 SWG. It has been cool recently in SoCal and I had not run a water test in about 3 weeks. I ran one a few days ago and got zero FC. All of the other water parameters looks pretty good, at least those that would affect FC generation (CYA = 60, pH=7.3, NaCl=3800, TA=55). I also took a water sample directly from one of the returns using a small hose and also got zero FC. I have cleaned the cell.

There are no error codes on the panel at all. It shows active flow, 80% chlorine production, and 3700ppm salt. After reading several threads here and elsewhere, I ran some voltage tests at the cell and got less than 1 VDC. When I test the voltage at the board, I get 8.4 VDC with the chlorine production set at 100%. I have read that these values are supposed to be 22 to 28 VDC.

Any ideas what is going on? I called Jandy tech support, and once I told them there were no error codes, they couldn't help anymore, as I am not a contractor or pool professional.

Too cold to product chlorine is it’s much below 60f water temperature

 

[socalsharky]

Too cold to product chlorine is it’s much below 60f water temperature

But zero chlorine? In 20+ years of owning a pool with a SWG in SoCal, I have not seen that before.

 

[ajw22]

Show us a picture of the Aquapure display.

What is the Aqualink water temperature?

Jandy AquaPure SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

From Page 39 of the Installation Manual:

Chlorine production is not permitted below 51°F (11°C); operating the chlorinator in cold water might result in over-chlorinated pool water. If more chlorine is needed, activating the “Boost” mode will override this cold water feature allowing chlorine production for 24 hours of operation.

 

[socalsharky]

 

[ajw22]

Use liquid chlorine to raise your FC level and do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. You may have algae consuming all the chlorine being generated.

 

[JamesW]

Check the amperage like this.

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[JamesW]

Check the DC Voltage Here.

Note: Make sure to use DC Amps and DC Volts.

 

[socalsharky]

Check the amperage like this.

View attachment 627975

Thanks James. I don't have an ammeter like that. Maybe time to invest in one! However, from my knowledge of circuits, if the voltage at the cell is zero there can be no current flow. And I have basically 0 VDC at the cell.
I checked the DC Voltage at the pins on the circuit board, that are connected to those 2 wires that you pointed out. Doesn't that give the same result?

 

[JamesW]

Doesn't that give the same result?

Try it at the connections.

If it was not working, it would give an error.

In my opinion, the amps and volts are probably ok and it is probably working.

You have to check with the cell actually receiving power and not disconnected.

Check for hydrogen bubbles at the return.

Also check the amperage.

Make sure that the clamp ammeter will do DC AMPs.

A regular multimeter will test DC amps inline.

Unplugged the red cord, patched in the MM between the 2 disconnected leads, then put the % back to 100%. It went up to 5.58 amps.

 

[socalsharky]

Use liquid chlorine to raise your FC level and do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. You may have algae consuming all the chlorine being generated.

Even with 0 FC in the water coming from the pool return port?

Did you see anything unusual with the pictures of the AquaPure display that I posted?

 

[ajw22]

Even with 0 FC in the water coming from the pool return port?

I do not view that as conclusive.

Did you see anything unusual with the pictures of the AquaPure display that I posted?

Nope. As @JamesW said it looks like the cell is generating. So lets check that nothing is eating the chlorine.

 

[socalsharky]

I do not view that as conclusive.



Nope. As @JamesW said it looks like the cell is generating. So lets check that nothing is eating the chlorine.

Check the DC Voltage Here.

Note: Make sure to use DC Amps and DC Volts.

View attachment 627977

I got a Klein CL390 and checked the DC Volts and Amps. The blue wire that James shows has zero amps. I tested the meter on some other DC devices and did get non-zero readings, so I know it is working. The DC voltage between the 2 wires is about 11V. I also collected another sample of water coming from the return, and the FC was the same as the general pool water. All of this was with the Chlorine production set at 100%.
I also SLAMed the pool and it passed an OCLT. Any further testing I can do?

 

[JamesW]

The DC voltage between the 2 wires is about 11V.

Can you show how you were testing?

 

[socalsharky]

Can you show how you were testing?

 

[JamesW]

Are you sure that you were making good contact and that the cell was showing on?

You have to make sure that the meter is set to DC Amps and DC volts.

You have to watch for a few minutes to see if the cell gets power.

 

[socalsharky]

Are you sure that you were making good contact and that the cell was showing on?

You have to make sure that the meter is set to DC Amps and DC volts.

You have to watch for a few minutes to see if the cell gets power.

Yes I am sure. I took the measurement again for over 5 minutes. No significant difference. It was always around 11.5VDC. DC Amps are basically zero.

 

[JamesW]

It would show an error if it was not getting enough amps.

 

[TinFoilHat]

Is the water too cold for production? I believe most cells stop producing at about 50 deg water.

 

[ajw22]

Is the water too cold for production? I believe most cells stop producing at about 50 deg water.

The display will show the LO code. LO indicates the temperature of Pool is < 54ºF (12.2°C). Chlorine production is stopped.



From Page 39 of the Installation Manual:

Chlorine production is not permitted below 51°F (11°C); operating the chlorinator in cold water might result in over-chlorinated pool water. If more chlorine is needed, activating the “Boost” mode will override this cold water feature allowing chlorine production for 24 hours of operation.